Engine quit



Engine quit

Postby rbl2 » June 22nd, 2012, 8:49 am

I have a 98 Silverado, V6 vortex, 4.3. About 2 weeks ago I took it in town and when we were done our shopping it didn't want to start. Warm engine. After 5-6 tries it fired up and ran as we as always. The next morning it did it again. Cold engine. A week or so went by and I was on a trip to New Orleans and had gone about 90 miles when it died going down the road. It simply died, no warning signs whatsoever. It has not started since. Everything electrical seems to be working. I'm tempted to say it's the fuel pump but because it did not sputter I'm not sure.

Y'all's thoughts?
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Re: Engine quit

Postby grumpyvette » June 22nd, 2012, 9:49 am

have you pulled trouble codes yet?
it sounds like a defective ignition control modual, or sensor
youll need a VOM meter and a list of trouble codes, and a shop manual sure will help!

are you getting fuel pressure?
have you checked the fuses for the injectors?
have you checked for loose electrical connections, vacuum lines or defective sensors?

have you used a noid light to test the injectors?
what does the ohms resistance accross the unplugged injector read?
how much?
are you getting spark at the plugs?
what color and is it strong?
whats your oil pressure while cranking the car?
can you pull the plugs and post CLEAR PICTURES with each cylinder numbered?
whats the battery voltage?
have you checked for vacume leaks?
are you sure the distributor or coil is not wet or the connections loose?
are you 100% sure theres clean fuel reaching the engine?
have you replaced the fuel and air filters?
was there any sound like a belt slipping or the engine running like the timing changed before this happened?
have you done a compression check?
have you taken off and carefully cleaned BOTH battery cable connections

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=609

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=5893&p=22102&hilit=noid#p22102
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: Engine quit

Postby mathd » June 22nd, 2012, 10:14 am

omg that chevy 4.3 v6... if you want a good advice sell it once you get it fixed(if you do)
Because (i dont know in the us) but in canada every darn chevy that has this 4.3liter engine... the engine just dont last(and they have very bad MPG)..usually they let go at around 160 000-180 000 Km (thats about 100 000-110 000 miles) usually on the crank and sometime its the heads. Your problem do not sound too serious so finger crossed and call for luck it will be back on the road again :)
Mathieu
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Re: Engine quit

Postby rbl2 » June 25th, 2012, 11:33 pm

Grumpy, You ust reminded me why I prefer cars made prior to the early 60's. I know how to work on them without a computer.

Mat, these vortex engines, at least the ones I have experience with, are very good engines and will run 250k miles with no serious problems. This truck gets 22 mpg and my little Pontiac with the same engine gets about 27 mpg

First chance I get, if I can find one, I'll buy a 33-35 Chevy truck in need of repair and put a newer but pre '62 in line 6 in it, put in a 12v system and an AC and go on about my business.
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Re: Engine quit

Postby mathd » June 26th, 2012, 8:33 am

rbl2 wrote:Grumpy, You ust reminded me why I prefer cars made prior to the early 60's. I know how to work on them without a computer.

Mat, these vortex engines, at least the ones I have experience with, are very good engines and will run 250k miles with no serious problems. This truck gets 22 mpg and my little Pontiac with the same engine gets about 27 mpg

First chance I get, if I can find one, I'll buy a 33-35 Chevy truck in need of repair and put a newer but pre '62 in line 6 in it, put in a 12v system and an AC and go on about my business.

Strange, in canade everyone thats has a 4.3 blazer or zr1 truck dont even think about the MPG because its very bad and when looking at the local ads they all sell for really cheap and easily 7/8 of them has serious engine problem . They must have did something wrong for the canadian version lol.

Those in-line 6 are a very good choiche they are known to last forever :)
Mathieu
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Re: Engine quit

Postby rbl2 » June 27th, 2012, 5:44 pm

Chevy made the same in line 6 from 1936 to 1962 with only minor changes. They did improve their 6 cylinder with the one that followed. I am quite serious about wanting a 33-35 Chevy/GMC pick up that I can install a newer engine in. I would not want to do it to a fully restored one however.
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Re: Engine quit

Postby rbl2 » August 2nd, 2012, 12:35 am

Here's what we found out. A friend came by and plugged in a hand held computer. It drew a blank on the fuel pump/pressure. I checked to make sure it was getting fire to the pump and it was. Since there was no fuel deivery and no noise coming from the fuel pump I elected to replace it. I did that tonight. It now pumps fuel but still won't start. I poured gas in the throttle and it would run. So I know it's getting fire to the plugs. We then checked the fuel supply at the in line fuel fiter and found it is getting fuel to the engine side of the filter. With the key on we can hear sounds coming from the throttle body but there is no fuel coming from it to the intake. At this point we called it a night. Tomorrow I intend to brea the fuel line free from the throttle body and see if fuel is reaching that far. If not all I can think of is an obstruction in the fuel line someplace.

Any other thoughts?
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Re: Engine quit

Postby grumpyvette » August 2nd, 2012, 7:43 am

throttle body injection requires a fuel pressure regulator to provide a certain minimal fuel pressure level to get the injectors to flow fuel, if the fuel pressure regulators defective the fuel flows past the throttle body injector basically unrestricted back to the tank and theres no pressure available to spray fuel into the engine, so ID strongly suggest looking up the factory suggested fuel pressure and checking your getting that at the injector/throttle body, with a reliable fuel pressure gauge, many older throttle body injection systems operate at about 14psi-18 psi , some of the more recent versions operate at 55psi-60 psi, but check your shop manual or verify the expected pressure level
http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-injec ... 92699.html


Image

READ THESE LINKS
http://www.howstuffinmycarworks.com/GM_ ... ssure.html

http://www.ehow.com/how_6637877_change- ... lator.html

http://www.ehow.com/list_7907357_fuel-s ... erado.html

http://www.underhoodservice.com/issue/a ... ntid=39820

if you find fuel reaches the throttle body thats good but it also must have pressure to work at the injector/throttle body , and a defective fuel pressure regulator will cause the symptom your describing, temporarily blocking the return line will be a quick test, because restricting flow will allow required pressure to build , if it runs its a good indication the pressure regulators defective
your fuel supply is laid out in similar fashion to this , but with a single or duel throttle body injector vs the multi port bank of injectors like in a TPI

Image
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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