Brake lines - copper or steel?



Brake lines - copper or steel?

Postby chromebumpers » September 27th, 2012, 11:44 am

I have a ruptured brake line due to corrosion making a weak spot. My choices are 1) Take out all lines and ship them to this company that will copy and send them back at a charge of $329 plus what-ever. This would put the truck out of service for about 2 weeks (note, this company makes brake and fuel lines for GM and maybe others but of all the models they have in stock and have specs for - they don't have anything for a 2006 short-bed crew cab. I'm not thrilled about paying for shipping and then they have a free model to keep the specs for and the next guy doesn't have to ship his lines).
2) Replace lines myself. I made fuel lines and lots of residential A/C lines so this brake line shouldn't be a big deal. (no, these lines are not available at the dealers).
3) Going out on a limb here asking but I have to, Can a cut and splice in the line work? example: cut out the bad area and flare both ends with the fittings on first and tighten everything back together? The only problem I see is the space in which to work maybe too tight to get straight cuts and flare tooling.

Can I make these lines out of copper or steel, both are the same price for a 25 ft. coil. (between $21 NiCopper at NAPA and $25 for steel at Eastwood, includes fittings for master cyl. and caliper ends.) Does it make any difference?

More to come - Bleeding this line maybe a can of worms! each line goes to a central box with all lines coming in and on the other side the line goes back to the master. It doesn't seem like a good job to use my Phoenix Reverse pump but rather use the traditional way and pump the brakes at each wheel. That central box/splitter may mean bleeding the whole system and not just for one wheel?
Rich
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Re: Brake lines - copper or steel?

Postby Indycars » September 27th, 2012, 12:24 pm


http://www.classictube.com/

Classic Tube is not charging you anything extra for their part at $329 for the set, that's the lowest price I saw for any vehicle. The shipping is going to be extra to get it to them, so I'm confused why you have a problem with that? :?

I would be tempted to replace a section of brake line. But only you can tell how hard this is going to be. If you can undo some of the supports and get some flexibility, then it might not be too hard. They do make some pretty small cutters for getting into small places.

Good luck !

TubingCutter-Micro.jpg


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Re: Brake lines - copper or steel?

Postby chromebumpers » September 27th, 2012, 2:09 pm

Indycars wrote:
http://www.classictube.com/

Classic Tube is not charging you anything extra for their part at $329 for the set, that's the lowest price I saw for any vehicle. The shipping is going to be extra to get it to them, so I'm confused why you have a problem with that? :?

TubingCutter-Micro.jpg




Thanks Rick,
Sorry if it sounds like I have a "problem' with Classictube.com - I don't. It's just that's one of my 3 outlined choices I provided and with my comment towards sending them my old lines. The only draw-back to this first choice is that turn-around time was stated for 2 weeks. I have no idea what other companies charge and I didn't say anything of their price is high, in fact it's about what I thought it should cost for regular steel, not stainless on a late model vehicle (I know it's $75, dealer charge for one Wrangler brake line).

Anyway, My main topic still stands. Copper or steel?
Rich
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Re: Brake lines - copper or steel?

Postby Indycars » September 27th, 2012, 2:59 pm


From my research it looks like the copper/nickle alloy is better, since
it's more corrosion resistant.


http://www.fedhillusa.com/
High performance manufacturers such as Aston Martin, Porsche, Volvo and Audi,
have chosen to install copper-nickel alloy over all other materials including stainless steel
brake lines.


http://www.copper.org/applications/auto ... brake.html
Copper-nickel alloy C70600, an alloy of 90% copper and 10% nickel, is inherently
corrosion resistant to road salt, and its use as brake tubing is increasing based on:
1) Changing life-expectancy for automotive vehicles;
2) Worldwide service-experience data on brake tubing wear; and
3) Increasing cost of corrosion-retarding coatings for steel brake tubing.


Some personal experiences from the Jalopy Journal Forum:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/show ... p?t=517629

Rick
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Re: Brake lines - copper or steel?

Postby Indycars » September 27th, 2012, 3:14 pm


Here is an article put together by the Copper Development Association:

http://www.copper.org/applications/auto ... _tube.html

Rick
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- Check Out My Dart SHP Engine Project: viewtopic.php?f=69&t=3814
- Need a Dynamic Compression Ratio Calculator: viewtopic.php?f=99&t=4458
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Re: Brake lines - copper or steel?

Postby chromebumpers » September 27th, 2012, 7:03 pm

Great information! Just in time as I was putting together an order and it would have been steel. Copper is easier to install in this truck, it's tight.
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Re: Brake lines - copper or steel?

Postby grumpyvette » September 28th, 2012, 10:33 am

90/10 copper tubing used for brake lines is NOT the same thing as most hard ware store copper plumbing tubing your going to commonly find locally

http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/tec ... d_flaring/
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
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Re: Brake lines - copper or steel?

Postby chromebumpers » September 28th, 2012, 11:03 am

grumpyvette wrote:90/10 copper tubing is NOT the same thing as most hard ware store copper plumbing tubing your going to commonly find locally


I know. I'm getting the 90/10, 25 ft. coil at NAPA later today.
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Re: Brake lines - copper or steel?

Postby Indycars » October 15th, 2012, 8:56 am


It's probably too late, but these people might have what you need.

You will have to select "Inside" or "Outside" the frame to narrow it down to your needs.

http://inlinetube.com/Preformed%20Lines ... -Short.htm



1999 New Body Style-2006 Chevrolet GMC Truck 2wd & 4wd
Find Lines For:

Crew Cab
Short Bed

"Inside of Frame" or "Outside of Frame":

The ABS module on your GM truck is mounted inside of the frame on the driver's side. This is an important safety feature, so we want to make sure that the lines going into and coming out are exactly the right pattern.

Inside Frame (2).JPG


Inside of Frame

Outside Frame (2).JPG


Outside of Frame

Click on your master line routing style (where the line from your master cylinder to ABS runs) below:
Inside of frame Outside of frame

All lines come completely preformed with correct fittings on the ends and spring wrap identical to the factory original lines.
We are always scanning brake, fuel and transmission lines. If you do not see your application, call for an updated listing.
For bending your own lines, see the straight length section.
All of our preformed lines are manufactured with computer precision on our state-of-the-art CNC tube benders.
With our exclusive computer controlled laser scanner all lines are reproduced with uncompromising accuracy.
When you order Inline Tubes, they ship out within 24 hours and are at your doorstep in a matter of a few days.

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Rick
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- Check Out My Dart SHP Engine Project: viewtopic.php?f=69&t=3814
- Need a Dynamic Compression Ratio Calculator: viewtopic.php?f=99&t=4458
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Re: Brake lines - copper or steel?

Postby chromebumpers » October 15th, 2012, 10:23 am

no, still working on this. My cheap crappy flare tool is not letting me make the double inverted 45 degree ends. I will have to get a shop nearby or buy the $225 K tool or Eastwood flare tool to get the job done.
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