garage security



garage security

Postby grumpyvette » October 1st, 2008, 9:33 pm

THERE'S OBVIOUSLY things that can be done to increase security, and make it far more difficult for thieves to get to your home or garage,
AND YEAH! THERES A FEW LOW LIFE BASTARDS IN EVERY NEIGHBORHOOD WHO WOULD LOVE TO TAKE WHAT YOU HAVE GIVEN THE OPERTUNITY
these improvements should include, better locks, on outside doors, requiring a key from both sides, expanded steel screen over door windows, a monitored alarm, with cameras, video surveillance with a video recorder OFF SITE and BOLTING the safe,you keep valuables in if you have one in your office solidly to a concrete floor, to the concrete floor if you have one, or under floor joists would help, as would a locked fence and a couple large dogs, yeah its a p.i.t.a. but until its legal to shoot thieves caught in the act with zero legal issues, and they start giving thieves a MANDATORY first time sentence in jail, thats likely to be required
youve got to look over your property and say to yourself, if I wanted to get inside quickly without a key to the door how would I do it and then take the required measures to make it far more difficult to do, lighting, fences,multiple alarms cameras, dogs, all have a place!
the first thing you want to deal with is LIMITING easy access, to the car, obviously a fenced yard with a securely locked gate, and a locked garage if possible is a good start.
think like a thief!! how would you go about stealing your own car, whats preventing you or making it easy?
where possible having a fence with a gate that you can lock when your home or away that controls access to the area near the shop or garage or in some cases the home also, still remains a good way to add an additional and effective security barrier, especially if you install really bright motion detection activated lighting
a locked gate and a fenced yard help, but its a great risk of being caught thats the big deterrent, so make it very time consuming, and very difficult, have the place well lighted and make access , especially concealed access or access with any vehicle as difficult , and noisy and well lighted as you can.
if you have motion activated lighting and video cameras it helps, these need not be hugely expensive , any more and if your mechanically inclined setting up an alarm systems not that difficult.
a LAYERED APPROACH, TO PREVENTING THEFT, IS BY FAR THE MOST EFFECTIVE

(1) keep the car out of sight and preferably in a locked garage when parked

(2) your garage should have an alarm with an incredibly loud bell or siren, that can,t be disabled by killing the power and good locks and OBVIOUS video camera surveillance

(3)the car should have a tracking device like lO-JACK

(4) get good insurance with AGREED VALUE pay off

(5) a hidden fuel cut-off switch and ignition bye-pass sure won,t hurt

(6) a fenced yard with at least one large dog is obviously one option that tends to reduce trespassers

(7) parking the car with another locked car blocking access makes its theft take time, and the longer it takes the less incentive a thief sees


(8) redundant, overlapping,motion sensor lighting helps especially if each lighted area is hooked to a loud chime , that bongs when it comes on.



you want to think thru adding motion activated lighting and if possible have video surveillance and monitored alarms

http://www.thehomesecuritysuperstore.com/?src=MAC

http://www.surveillance-video.com/

http://www.adt.com/media/home-security/compare

http://www.surveillance-spy-cameras.com/

http://www.logitech.com/en-us/video-security-systems

http://store.videosurveillance.com/vide ... ce-systems

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Home-Securi ... 8100050020
next you want some motion and contact alarms on both the garage and the shop access.

simple things like a pad lock in the garage door frame to prevent it being opened if you intend on being away for a few days or having a trusted relletive stay at your home helps, large dogs , especially ones that are not overly friendly to visitors might be an option. in your fenced yard.

http://home.howstuffworks.com/home-security-tips.htm

watch this its important

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=81&p=104&hilit=fire+extingisher#p104

http://www.lojackforclassics.com/
TRACKING YOUR CAR ON THE CHEAP
http://gizmodo.com/5691724/how-to-track ... -the-cheap

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=81

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMz1tXBVT1s

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9hSp2FC ... re=related

http://www.elocksys.com/

http://www.ravelco.com/product.html

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=6501

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=3174

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=4517&p=24251#p24251

http://www.securitech.com/D01-mp-police-lock.html

http://www.gpsinformation.org/homerepai ... cs.htm#top

http://www.elocksys.com/

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=81&p=4888#p4888

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.ht ... r&A=107975

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TflnXt_oGv0

THIS IS ONE EFFECTIVE CHOICE!

http://www.entrybell.com/Merchant2/merc ... _Code=HOME

you won,t believe the noise the electronic dog bark alarm AND my 4 real dogs make when the motion sensor detects movement, the alarm makes my real dogs go absolutely bonkers

Plan to "burglarize" yourself. You'll discover any weaknesses in your security system that may have previously escaped your notice.
Lock up your home, even if you go out only for a short time. Many burglars just walk in through an unlocked door or window.


Change all the locks and tumblers when you move into a new house.


For the most effective alarm system, conceal all wiring. A professional burglar looks for places where he or she can disconnect the security system.


Your house should appear occupied at all times. Use timers to switch lights and radios on and off when you're not at home.


If you have a faulty alarm that frequently goes off, get it fixed immediately and tell your neighbors that it's been repaired. Many people ignore an alarm that goes off periodically.


A spring-latch lock is easy prey for burglars who are "loiding" experts. Loiding is the method of slipping a plastic credit card against the latch tongue to depress it and unlock the door. A deadbolt defies any such attack. It is only vulnerable when there is enough space between the door and its frame to allow an intruder to use power tools or a hacksaw.


If you lose your keys, change the locks immediately.


Before turning your house key over to a professional house cleaner for several hours, make sure the person is honest and reputable as well as hardworking. Check all references thoroughly. If the house cleaner is from a firm, call your local Better Business Bureau to check on the firm's reputation.


Instead of keeping a spare key in a mailbox, under the doormat, or on a nail behind the garage, wrap the key in foil -- or put it in a 35mm film can -- and bury it where you can easily find it if you need it.


Don't leave notes for service people or family members on the door. These act as a welcome mat for a burglar.


If the entrances to your home are dark, consider installing lighting with an infrared detector. Most thieves don't want to be observed trying to get in a door.


Talk to your neighbors about any suspicious people or strange cars you notice lurking about.
To keep your tools from being stolen, paint the handles. Thieves avoid items that are easy to identify.


Trees located near windows or shrubbery that might shield a burglar from view can be major flaws in your home-protection plan. Consider your landscaping plan in light of your protection needs.


Ask for credentials from any sales-person who requests entry to your home. Ask that their ID be pushed under the door. Many professional burglars use this cover to check out homes. If you're doubtful, check with the person's office before letting him or her in.


Do not list your full name on your mailbox or your entry in the telephone book. Use only your initial and your last name.


If someone comes to your door asking to use the phone to call a mechanic or the police, keep the door locked and make the call yourself.

Dogs are good deterrents to burglars. Even a small, noisy dog can be effective -- burglars do not like to have attention drawn to their presence. Be aware, however, that trained guard dogs do not make good pets. Obedience training and attack training are entirely different, and only the former is appropriate for a house pet.



now obviously your not going too build a nice garage and stock it with thousands of dollars in car parts and tools, without giving a good deal of thought to retaining your investment. so heres a few things you should consider.

enterance ,security doors, should at a minimum have a steel door in a steel frame with a good quality lock with hinges that cand be easily disassembled with the door in the closed possition
example

http://www.mastersecuritydoors.com/

garage doors should NOT be easily opened from the outside manually, locks that lock both sides of the door and a electric door opener , or chain pulley door operator that restricts the door opening to someone with a key and internal access is a very good idea.
doors should be dual layer and hurricane re-enforced designs made of sandwhiched steel and windows are a bad idea!, especially windows that have glass you can see thru!

SECURITY LIGHTING
motion sensor lighting inside and outside the garage is a good idea,most burgalars are not fond of operating in bright lighting, some motion sensor lighting can be wired to turm on a remore alarm buzzer if the house and garage are seperate!

GET A DARN QUALITY ALARM SYSTEM INSTALLED

the $20-$25 dollars a month that a monitored alarm system costs looks like chump change once your looking at loosing your investment!
try to deal locally with a nationally known alarm company, insist on at least one or more, very loud... annoyingly loud ...outside bells thats not easily reached on the high outside wall or inside the eves of the garage,and a system that covers all potential entrance points PLUS a motion detector inside the shop and it helps if its got a wireless transmitter and battery back-up
http://www.adt.com/wps/portal/adt/for_y ... s_services

http://www.norcoalarms.com/

http://www.brinkshomesecurity.com/

http://www.guardianalarms.net/

http://www.intellahome.com/

http://www.supercircuits.com/

http://store.bluecherry.net/

CAR SECURITY RELAY INFO
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp

http://www.adilink.com/services/productCatalog.php
go to this ADI page and download their Intrusion Products catalog. Lots of stuff there. They have 105 offices across the country where you can buy the stuff.
(INTRUSION)

yes you can install a fuel line cut off valve that makes starting and driving your car more difficult for thieves,
http://www.harborfreight.com/38-full-port-ball-valve-68255.html
Image
Image
Image
http://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-barbed-fitting-2-pc-68213.html
viewtopic.php?f=55&t=4381&p=16285&hilit=flex+fuel+line#p16285
installing a cut off in the fuel lines easily done but keep in mind it needs to remain outside the crew compartment, easily accessed but out of sight and mounted where road trash won,t hit it
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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Re: garage security

Postby grumpyvette » February 5th, 2009, 8:41 pm

theres lots of very impressive garages out there that could double a recreation rooms or dens, but a real garage in my opinion needs enough room to work on a car or two and enough space for storage all the tools that requires.(AND THOSE TOOLS) IM constantly cleaning mine and putting tools away, or Id never find a darn thing, but its never going to look like some places I see on line that appear to be advertisements for expensive cabinetry, more than a working repair or performance shop.

Im always impressed with those garages that have the expensive stainless or wood cabinets, and tile floors, they look spectacular, but a decent shop has several tool boxes and a lift of some kind even if its just a kwiklift

http://www.kwiklift.com/Options.htm
or on the low end several good jack stands and a couple floor jacks
now IM not about to say any garage is better or worse than the next one, we all build, buy, or use the best we can afford, but a real SHOP, will look WORKED IN, not sloppy or dirty, but there sure will be signs that theres been a few cars in and out of it and at least a trash container full of parts packaging and busted/worn components some place near bye, and indications the tools got used and the floor jacks have been rolled across the floor.
an epoxy coated floor and great lighting are a huge advantage to getting the shop looking clean and bright, and a clean bright shop makes things easier to work on, but don,t let JUST a shops appearance alone be your only indication of the quality of work that gets done,the MECHANICS SKILLS DO COME INTO PLAY HERE AS WELL AS THE SHOPS APPEARANCE, if its a dumpster you can be reasonably sure you don,t want work done there, but if you can eat off the floor and shelf's Id doubt theres much actual work going on either. and shop tools like welders,grinders,drill presses, and jobs like engine assembly and radiator repairs, and tune ups generally leave some indication that work was done recently!
keep in mind guys generally do the best they can,and are proud of their shops, but their budget may not allow some of the nicer touches, like tile, or cabinetry.
what you need

as much floor space as possible, that can be securely locked up

decent tool storage

a flat dry floor

protection from weather

as many quality tools as you can buy, beg, or borrow

decent reference materials and safety equipment

hopefully a lift

good lighting

almost everything else is optional

these pictures were taken of my shop as we were just stuffing crap from the storage into the new shop to get it in out of the rain the first day we had electric, I worked and saved and planed for 35 years to get my dream shop!
naturally its a bit neater now but theres alot more tools and shelves also,plus motion sensors , alot more lights ,phones,cameras, redundant alarm systems and intercom etc, pictures give you some idea of size if nothing else

Image
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Image

I added a good deal more lighting, motion sensors, flood lights, intercom,redundant alarms etc. since this picture was taken early in the construction process.

Image

any security system needs to be multi- layered, alarms lighting cameras, fences,locks etc. dogs are a good addition,
IVE got 4 weenie dogs (dachshunds) they are GREAT watch dogs in that they almost instantly go nuts, barking to inform you, if they sense anything out of the ordinary,going on, like movement inside or outside the home , but they are more into frantic running,barking, and howling, if they detect something has changed, than biting in most cases, my driveways 170 feet long, the, UPS,guy, water delivery guy, or fedex have no chance of getting to the front door before IM notified, by 4 frantically barking weenie dogs, Ive even had them go crazy when a neighbors cat or dog walked into our yard at 1-5 a.m. because of the motion lights on the house, or garage go on , even if they are all in a different part of the house and asleep,they go crackers, you just let them know its O.K. , by getting up and looking around,and they settle down, but if you don,t respond they just get louder
having a few gators around to control trespassing don,t hurt
__________________
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ADDING A FEW THIEF DISPOSAL SYSTEMS TO THE LOCAL POND ON YOUR PROPERTY WON<T HURT
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IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: garage security

Postby grumpyvette » February 26th, 2009, 10:44 am

http://www.shopoutdoorlighting.com/Moti ... 7311205011

http://www.gadgetshack.com/semoal30ftra.html

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/shop/produ ... rod1480868

http://www.howstuffworks.com/question238.htm

http://www.lightinguniverse.com/securit ... tml?st=270

http://www.securitech.com/D01-mp-police-lock.html

adding motion sensor lights to BOTH the inside and outside of your garage adds to the security, but you may not always instantly notice outside lights so
another smart move is adding a couple different motion sensor/ chimes/alarms or even two/or three, near the outside and inside garage doors with a chime in your living area, so that anyone walking around your property notifies you either day or night with a chime



cheap
http://www.asseenontvguys.com/driveway- ... on-tv.aspx

good
http://www.beachaudio.com/Wma-3000-p-27 ... ontent=atr

good
http://www.smarthome.com/7460/Weatherpr ... tor/p.aspx


BTW, if your relying on a garage door that locks with a lock like this its PATHETIC, and relying on the garage door opener is even more foolish

watch this its important


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMz1tXBVT1s

and this.....if you don,t change to better locks your tempting fate

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwTVBWCijEQ

Image
Image


Image
, GET A DECENT FIRE EXTINGUISHER< GET SMOKE ALARMS INSTALLED, THINK ABOUT WHAT YOU LOOSE IF A GARAGE CATCHES FIRE!
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: garage security

Postby joegagan » February 26th, 2009, 3:18 pm

speaking from experience, if i can trace your house key on a piece of paper, i can make a working copy in five minutes with a dremel.

not that i am a burglar, i am a homebuilder and maintenence person with the ability to do this. a burglar can do the same. if you set your keys down, or lose them, a person can make a paper trace in a flash, just like your credit card info.
Send a message to Washington, join SEMAsan ( http://www.semasan.com/main/main.aspx?I ... m/HomePage ), free membership. There is power in numbers, act now before any more more crap laws are passed. Vote the bums out in 2010!!!
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Re: garage security

Postby grumpyvette » February 26th, 2009, 4:44 pm

good to know!, but the better locks like medcos are a bit harder, to do than the cheaper hardware store special sale versions

one thing you can do is install bars/expanded metal screens,etc., over windows and tint the glass from the inside with the silver tint so you can,t see INTO the garage or scrape it off, and install an alarm on the garage doors and windows,then get two very high quality motion sensor activated outside lights and hook a remote into the circuit that has some type of remote buzzer so your well aware when anyone approaches the garage at night even if they don,t open the door, if you don,t have a dog you could wire a tape recorder that starts to play a recording of a large pissed off dog barking that starts as the lights go on, and it sure won,t hurt to have a locked fenced yard either.
don,t let people passing by see into your garage, keep it closed and locked as much as possible, if you must have the door open to work park the largest vehicle you have to partly block seeing into the garage and having a roll down translucent plastic strip screen won,t hurt

BTW sooner or later youll eventually lock your keys in the car or in your shop, shop,now I know this may not be an obvious idea but why does your wife not carry a spare key to the corvette or shop on her key ring or why don,t you have a spare key for both in your wallet or have a spare keys in your sock drawer , for an example in the house for the vette/ or shop?

you would hardly be the first guy to use a spare key holder mounted up under the car or inside a bumper or duct taped to an inner finder skirt where its not easily seen either, but be very careful as thieves know to look and if its obvious they WILL FIND IT

Image
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: garage security

Postby joegagan » February 26th, 2009, 6:54 pm

for the record, if you do need to buy at home depot or lowes, schlage has the most durable inner mechanism of the major brands. they applied their commercial technology to the residential grade stuff, as opposed to the lesser kwikset etc , which has always been low grade.
Send a message to Washington, join SEMAsan ( http://www.semasan.com/main/main.aspx?I ... m/HomePage ), free membership. There is power in numbers, act now before any more more crap laws are passed. Vote the bums out in 2010!!!
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Re: garage security

Postby grumpyvette » July 20th, 2010, 6:11 pm

I just got a call, from a friend about a break-in at his shop.
the thieve,s broke in and got a few tools but luckily nothing very expensive, while he was at work, he thinks they got scared off because his car alarm,went off in the garage.
he called looking for alarm info ,
but I told him that in addition to the alarm he needs better locks some motion sensors and motion sensor chimes, and other things listed in this thread.

if your door and frame are easily kicked in or if you've got easy window access those factors need to be CORRECTED FIRST
keep in mind the expense might look high but its pennies compared to your potential losses if you loose , significant parts and tools.
an effective deterrent must be multi layered, locks,alarms, lighting, and fences, and large dogs are great ,cameras, motion sensors, lighting and full time surveillance are options, the object of course is to make the OBVIOUS risk of getting caught far too REAL,and EFFECTIVE , for anyone thinking about robbing your property,compared to the potential gains for a thief

simple things like having a fenced yard, locked gates with vicious dog signs, sure won,t hurt, but installing motion sensor lighting, motion sensor chimes, surveillance cameras and a decent monitored alarm will help also, and if you install the system your selk or shop around for alarm company deals its not that expensive to do in many cases


http://www.adtpulse.com/what-is-pulse?s ... o=westpalm

http://www.protectrix.com/howitworks.shtml

http://home.howstuffworks.com/home-impr ... y-tips.htm

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/off ... ystem.html

http://www.theultimatelock.com/

http://www.homesecurityinformation.com/ ... curity.htm

http://garages.about.com/od/garagemaint ... Safety.htm

http://www.coolest-gadgets.com/20091030 ... rack-kids/

http://www.bondorseals.com/more_info/ba ... alarms.htm

http://www.drivewayalarms.pro/
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: garage security

Postby grumpyvette » July 22nd, 2010, 12:12 pm

some basics you don,t want to ignore

a good metal door with a metal frame and at lease one quality dead bolt goes a long way to add security
Image

shops should have metal doors, without windows, with matched metal frames securely bolted into the building or poured in place with concrete and rebar
the doors should have dead bolt locks,security plates and pinned door hinges


http://www.defenseshopper.com/index.php ... age=page_2

http://www.drillspot.com/products/57203 ... forcer?s=1

http://www.wikihow.com/Burglarproof-Your-Doors

door lock protection plates, are a big help and you can significantly strengthen a door with metal backing plates

http://www.handlesets.com/ives-lg10-9-1 ... bec|537036

dead bolt locks
http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... 8wIwADgA#p

http://www.handlesets.com/double-cylind ... olts/c3857

pin your door hinges

http://www.associatedcontent.com/articl ... html?cat=6

use motion sensor lights
http://www.elights.com/senflood200w.html
Image

http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Proje ... r-lighting

http://home.howstuffworks.com/home-impr ... ion238.htm

http://www.mgelectronics.com/productlis ... egoryid=22

http://www.amazon.com/Foscam-FI8918W-Wi ... B0046710G6

http://www.smarthome.com/72762/Elk-Outd ... S30/p.aspx

alarms
http://www.buyerzone.com/security/secur ... stid=18500
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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Re: garage security

Postby grumpyvette » July 22nd, 2010, 6:57 pm

(I found this info on the net, it might help you guys)


my $60 garage alarm system
Image

I wanted to have a basic alarm/theft deterrent for the garage and called around to several local alarm places. My garage is detached and has electricity but no heat or phone lines. Every place wanted me to do the same thing - buy a cellular tower to install in the garage. This was not something I wanted to do. I was (somewhat) willing to pay the monthly fee for the alarm service but I did not want to add another cell phone bill to the mix.

Next step was to scour the net looking for a stand alone system but after weeks of searching I could not find what I wanted. I really just needed something that could be left in the cold, had a motion sensor and an alarm/siren and did not operate on batteries. No one makes a basic system like that that I could find so I decided to build my own.

Went to home depot and bought the following items:

outdoor motion sensor with 2 light sockets - $14.95
2 bulbs for sensor - $8
16v transformer - $10
knockout electrical box - $1

Then I stopped over at radio shack and bought a 108db 12v piezo siren for $9.

I wired everything up and mounted it on a piece of scrap mdf. I had an old shopvac that has a blown motor so I cut the cord off and wired it into the system for power. I spliced the transformer into the lines for the light sockets so that the alarm only sounds when the lights go on (motion is detected).


This gave me the basic system that I wanted but the problem was arming and disarming the system. I did not want it to go off every time I opened the door. The solution was found at Target for $10. I bought a westinghouse remote control electircal thingy. It has one piece that plugs into an outlet and then has 2 outlets built into it. It comes with a wireless remote and it's intended purpose is to allow you to turn christmas lights on and off without having to unplug them. Works like a charm for my needs.

Now I have a motion sensor alarm that is loud as hell (12v siren getting 16v), 2 flood lights, it can be turned on and off from the car, no batteries to worry about dying in the cold and only goes off if someone enters the garage from either door. Total cost was around $60 after tax for everything.
obviously adding a back-up battery is an asset to the system. and doubling up the system by placing two separate systems in your shop for some redundancy sure won,t hurt either, and depending on the location you might want this rigged with both internal shop and external motion sensors if for example youve got a fenced yard with no kids or pets in a rural area to limit false alarms.
now obviously a real alarm with a monitored dial out wireless dialer will be a useful addition also if you want even more security, but having a lowd alarm sound when unwanted visitors approach your shop is a good idea.
obviously you'll want too mount the sensors and lights/sirens high enough that they are not easily reached or disabled


http://www.upsforless.com/apcsua750ref.aspx
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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Re: garage security

Postby grumpyvette » July 23rd, 2010, 3:11 pm

Donna_and_John posted this bit of info

"There are lots of little things that can be done to improve security. The first thing is to look at the potential points of entry into the shop or house. Doors and their lock sets are usually the first weakness, even though most folks feel they are secure.

Make sure the door is an exterior door. The door and frame is constructed a little differently than other door types. You'd be surprised at how many front doors on homes and stuff are really hollow core interior doors (because they are cheaper than exterior doors and someone wanted to pinch pennies). These doors are very easy to defeat even if you have the best lock-set in the world on them.

I prefer a metal door with a metal frame. You can get some now that have a wood veneer on them so they look like a nice "old fashioned" door. True, you don't necessarily need something like this for your shop, but it is a good option for the house. Metal frames are better because they're stronger.

For lock sets, we all want to save some money, but you do get what you pay for. At a minimum, you want a locking knob AND a deadbolt package. Stay away from Kwickset stuff. they are popular and fairly cheap, but an experienced lock picker can pick them in a few seconds. For just a couple dollars more (they are still "cheap") get the Schalage brand instead. It takes an experienced lock pick at least four (4) minutes to pick them. Time is everything for thieves... they are looking for the quick, easy score.

When you install the door and lockset, don't rely on the screws that come with them. Once the frame is properly set in the opening (square and plumb, with minimal gaps between the door and frame) and anchored, you want to do some minor modifying. You want the gaps around the door to be a small as possible (without affecting the operation of the door) so the deadbolt and the regualr latch extend as far as possible into the frame. The further in they go, the more material resists against prying open or kicking in.

Take at least two of the screws out of the hinges on the frame side of the door. Replace these with longer screws that will go deep into the framing of the house. This little "trick" makes a huge difference in making the door much harder to kick in. This is the side that most folks forget. It also helps keep the door from "sagging" as time goes on.

At a minimum, you want to do the same thing for the striker plates for both the knob and deadbolt on the frame side of the door. Don't use the screws that come with the lock-set for this. You can use them to establish where the holes need to be, but throw them away after that. Use long screws that anchor into the house framing. Now, if you have a wood framed door, you can also fairly easily beef it up some around the lock-set. Get a piece of metal long enough and wide enough to cover the deadbolt and latch area and the width of the frame. Put some holes in the metal to match up with he holes in the frame for the latch and deadbolt and the strike plate screws. Remove the strike plates and put the metal plate on the inside of the frame, lining up all the holes. Trace around the exterior of the metal plate. This is now your guide for recessing the plate into the frame. Using a sharp wood chisel, remove wood inside your marked line the thickness of the plate. Don't worry if you don't get it exact or if the depth is a little deeper than the thickness of the plate below the recess for the strike plate. (a little deeper is better than being too shallow). Once you have this done, put the plate in the recess you've made and re-attach the strike plates on top of the metal plate. The strike plate should sit in the same position (flush with the original edge of the frame) relative to the door edge. Use those long screws again to anchor into the house framing. You can add another screw or two to anchor the plate more to the framing; just drill and countersink the holes in the metal so the screw heads are flush. Fill in the depressions around the strike plates with bondo (the plate will sit lower that the rest of the frame - about the thickness of the strike plates). You can paint over the bondo to match the frame for a nearly invisible final installation. The metal plate really strengthens the frame a lot. The wood framed door is much harder now to pry open or kick in.

The final thing is to make sure the entire frame is well anchored into the house framing. Again, it is easy to skimp here and just use a few screws. Us a bunch of them and make sure they really extend deep into the house framing. Countersink the holes so the screw heads sit flush. You can paint over these for a clean, finished look.

As you read thorough the above, you'll notice that I didn't refer to a "nail" once. That's intentional. Screws provide much more clamping force and are generally stronger than using nails. They don't loosen up over time either. It takes more time to install a new door using screws verus nails, but it is much better in the long run. If your contractor doesn't do it, then do it yourself after he's gone. You'll be glad you did.

For a masonry building, the same general principles still apply. Just make sure the wood framing in the opening for the door is very securely attached top the masonry, or use some good masonry anchors instead of just screws to attach the frame directly to the masonry."
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
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Re: garage security

Postby grumpyvette » July 25th, 2010, 11:09 am

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http://www.apexcctv.com/CCTVBuyerGuide.aspx

http://www.compusa.com/applications/Sea ... =N247-1016

http://www.compusa.com/applications/Sea ... =N247-1058

http://www.compusa.com/applications/Sea ... =N247-1022

http://www.elektrodoor.co.za/portable-gas-alarms.html

http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... I0BEPMCMAI

http://www.discount-security-cameras.ne ... s-faq.aspx

http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.as ... opnav=&s=1

http://www.surveillance-video.com/4csbn160.html

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Lorex+-+DVR ... _desc=null


it may be a huge surprise to most guys but , security equipment costs have dropped and features have increased, you can self install a 4-6 camera video surveillance system that will dial your cell phone , record movement and alert you if programed correctly and/or that can be accessed and observed from your cell phone from off site and has a 500 gig memory for under $400-$700

obviously youll need to research the features each video surveillance system has, but youll be amazed at what you can currently get,and self install.... systems and features that used to cost multi thousand$ now cost hundred$



security is your main concern, in my opinion not ease of operation,i don,t advise use of automatic garage door openers
I don,t use any electronic locks or garage door openers,Ive installed multiple manual locks,(much more impressive that those standard locks that normally are included in a standard appear to be)alarms and a differential chain door lift system, that can,t be operated from outside the shop

ALL electronic door openers can be hacked most are difficult but far from impossible
a manual differential chain with chain that can be locked and additional frame locks provide more security

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/24771 ... image.html
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IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: garage security

Postby grumpyvette » October 7th, 2010, 6:39 pm

every home with responsible adult occupants should at least strongly consider having a safe for valuables,several fire extinguishers, a decent alarm system that has both hard line and cellular dial back-up and a safely stored firearm thats easily reached and activated if needed by that or those responsible adult occupants, occupants with at least some basic training in firearm use and maintenance
if some thug and his buddies kicks in your door, at 2 a.m. with murderous intent, you won,t have a prayer that the police will save your butt! its UP TO YOU to defend YOUR family

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now each of us makes choices but if someones going to attack you in your home or bust thru locked doors to steal your possessions,they are already guilty of a felony,and you can bet your personal safety or welfare is not high on their list of concerns , and breaking the law has no deterrent to their thinking.they pose a serious threat to you and your family and you'll need to deal with that threat or more than likely, if your confronting a felon, un-armed, you'll be seriously injured or even killed , remember they won,t want witnesses, pointing them out later


normal people don,t want to ever be in a gun fight,but if forced to defend yourself in your home...
looking down the bore of a 12 ga is a bit more intimidating to a thug, who is thinking of taking you on in combat,than a hand gun, and in trained hands, with a load of #1 buck, much more effective at across the room ranges, and your a bit less likely to need to shoot if the opponents sees the business end of a 12 ga leveled at his nose,

18"-20" in ballistic jell,is generally considered full penetration on opponents
If your family's lives are in the balance you want max effective armaments to stop an intruder, but you don,t want projectiles zipping thru outer walls and threatening neighbors
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IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: garage security

Postby Randy_W » August 12th, 2011, 6:38 am

I'm building or about to be building a new house now, those are good points!
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Re: garage security

Postby grumpyvette » August 18th, 2011, 8:05 am

one fairly recent option you may have over looked is the availability of DIGITAL INFRARED GAME CAMERAS , that can be placed around your shop in inconspicuous locations, providing you with documented photos of anything that moves near your shop, obviously if its mounted inconspicuously in a fence row, bird feeder kennel wall, storage shed, in a tree or on a near bye structure and camouflaged it can be very difficult to locate notice or disable for thieves
many of these cameras can take clear pictures even in the dark, and hold several gigs of pictures in storage , some of the better more expensive designs have a cell phone like capability , and can be down loaded , so you can inspect pictures off site from your lap top even if your not home, without even visiting the location too your computer, battery's usually last 6 months to a year and many hold thousands of pictures in storage.
obviously if you have several clear pictures of intruders on your property from several angles prosecuting thieves is far easier, but having an in depth system with motion sensor alarms, motion sensor lighting ,sturdy quality locks, a barrier fence , observant neighbors, possibly a few guard dogs and pictures of any trespassers helps security

Image
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http://www.lg-outdoors.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SS_75577

http://www.moultriefeeders.com/catalog. ... gamecamera

http://www.cabelas.com/trail-cameras-1.shtml

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Hunting/ ... t103867380

infrared, motion sensor out door alarms that chime inside your house when someone moves thru the protected area on your property , notifying you of trespassers also helps

http://www.security-cameras.com/Drivewa ... 7QodCG6k9g

http://nservices.com/motion.htm#Strobe_ ... nsor_Alarm

http://www.homesecuritystore.com/c-155-outdoor.aspx

If your around racers and car hobby guys youll eventually hear about guys getting trailers stolen or maybe be ripped off, now obviously you can,t absolutely prevent every potential threat but you can make things FAR MORE DIFFICULT FOR THIEVES
a GOOD WELDER will allow you to fabricate something secure to keep the wheels from turning or being removed and obviously locking the trailer with a heavy hardened chain, & pad lock and wheel and trailer tongue locks inside a locked fence worn,t hurt, look your trailer over as if you were the thieve and try to make its removal vastly more difficult
given time any thieve can over come most locks so motion detector lights and motion detector alarms and video cameras and a few dogs in a locked fence sure won,t hurt
simply making the trailer far more difficult to move and unlock helps, but an alarm that detects movement, and making it very difficult to work on the trailer while undetected is also a big help, if you walk up to a trailer and see its lock into a heavy ring in a concrete deck, the trailer tongue has a lock, the wheels are locked and two dual 200 watt flood lights come on as you approach it and theres obviously video surveillance it makes the trailer far less appealing to thieves




http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Trimax ... p_792.html

http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Trimax ... p_790.html

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IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: garage security

Postby grumpyvette » January 13th, 2012, 1:11 pm

as some of you know Ive installed motion detecting lights and a rather expensive monitored alarm system on my home and shop that has sensors that detect movement for 360 degrees around both buildings, and
Im very glad that I took the effort to instal the alarm, because it and my dogs let me know almost instantly if anything of significant size moves outside the home or shop.
well last might the light in the house indicates there something moving near my outside shop zone, so I go look and find a neighbor horse walking around in my back yard, well at least Im 100% sure the sensors work !
now from past experience I know it will detect the neighbors cats at about 60-80 feet from the shop but it detected the horse moving in the rear yard from almost 250 ft distance

as you can see its not next to the house so cameras and sensors help security
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IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
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Re: garage security

Postby Indycars » January 13th, 2012, 2:05 pm

Is the shop far enough from the house that you have to drive over there? 8-)

Why did you build the shop so far from the house??? Maybe because of the noise.
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