Walde's -86 L98



Re: Walde's L98

Postby Indycars » December 9th, 2012, 2:20 pm


That question was mostly answered in the 3rd post from the top.

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Re: Walde's L98

Postby grumpyvette » December 9th, 2012, 2:22 pm

IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: Walde's L98

Postby Walde » December 9th, 2012, 2:25 pm

Thank you!
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Re: Walde's L98

Postby Walde » December 28th, 2012, 5:07 am

Almost like Christmas again - when you buy stuff for yourself you get exatcly what you want/need instead of clothes or such useless crap. :mrgreen:

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Re: Walde's L98

Postby Walde » January 10th, 2013, 8:57 am

I got a set of seals for input and output shafts of the -86 diffential, Dana 44 I believe as mine is with 4+3?

Is there something special in the procedure of changing these seals?

With special I mean if the whole differential needs to come apart to be able to do this or if input yoke needs to be tightened to some special degree of tension or anything? I've tried to look for an instruction but no luck - if you know such an instruction I'd be grateful of a link or such.
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Re: Walde's L98

Postby grumpyvette » January 10th, 2013, 10:33 am

IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: Walde's L98

Postby Indycars » January 10th, 2013, 10:55 am


I don't know about everyone else but the beginning of the first few lines are
not visible because your avatar is covers it up. I'm using the latest Firefox browser.

Just thought you might like to know.


Avatar.JPG


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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- Check Out My Dart SHP Engine Project: viewtopic.php?f=69&t=3814
- Need a Dynamic Compression Ratio Calculator: viewtopic.php?f=99&t=4458
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Re: Walde's L98

Postby mathd » January 10th, 2013, 11:15 am

on my computer it show correctly.
probably i am using a hgiher res.. or you can do ctrl+ scroll down to decrease the fonts size.
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Re: Walde's L98

Postby gtr1999 » January 10th, 2013, 11:50 am

My specialty is custom building the 63-79 iron diff's for up to 1000hp but the the princicple procedures are the same for your diff. The diff has to come out for best results, yes the pinion seal can be done in the car and I suppose the side yoke seals can as well but you are better served to remove and mount it on a stand.

The side yokes are retained by clips removing them will allow the yokes to be removed, pry out the seals and replace them.

The pinion seal requires measuring the present bearing preload with a 0-30 in/lb dial torque wrench. Lets say it is 5 in/lbs, then remove the yoke and seal. Replace the seal and set the drag back to the recorded reading.

An alterntive method if you don't have a 0-30 dial TW is to mark the position of the pinion yoke,nut, and pinion with small cut off wheel. I like to just touch them so there is a permanent mark, some will paint them but you don't want it to rub off. You can also measure the depth of the nut on the pinion but I like marks better.
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Re: Walde's L98

Postby Indycars » January 10th, 2013, 12:00 pm

mathd wrote:on my computer it show correctly.
probably i am using a hgiher res.. or you can do ctrl+ scroll down to decrease the fonts size.

It's not biggy if everyone else can see it correctly.

I use NoSquint add-on for Firefox, it will zoom in/out and remembers the last zoom setting for all websites I visit and then returns me to that setting when I visit the next time.
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- Check Out My Dart SHP Engine Project: viewtopic.php?f=69&t=3814
- Need a Dynamic Compression Ratio Calculator: viewtopic.php?f=99&t=4458
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Re: Walde's L98

Postby Walde » January 10th, 2013, 1:29 pm

Sledge's ego is too big for small avatars. :mrgreen: Should be better now.

Thanks Grumpy for the links and advise.
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Re: Walde's L98

Postby Walde » January 10th, 2013, 1:38 pm

gtr1999 wrote:My specialty is custom building the 63-79 iron diff's for up to 1000hp but the the princicple procedures are the same for your diff. The diff has to come out for best results, yes the pinion seal can be done in the car and I suppose the side yoke seals can as well but you are better served to remove and mount it on a stand.

The side yokes are retained by clips removing them will allow the yokes to be removed, pry out the seals and replace them.

The pinion seal requires measuring the present bearing preload with a 0-30 in/lb dial torque wrench. Lets say it is 5 in/lbs, then remove the yoke and seal. Replace the seal and set the drag back to the recorded reading.

An alterntive method if you don't have a 0-30 dial TW is to mark the position of the pinion yoke,nut, and pinion with small cut off wheel. I like to just touch them so there is a permanent mark, some will paint them but you don't want it to rub off. You can also measure the depth of the nut on the pinion but I like marks better.

Thank you, Sir.

Sorry to bother a bit more with my layman's basic questions. :oops:

If I look at the link Grumpy posted above:

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=5756&p=17560#p17560

Do I understand correctly: the bearing preload is the torque of the nut on the input yoke? Or something else?

Is there a target value for this preload/torque or should I just try to reach the same position by marking it/measuring the distance instead?

I read elsewhere that this nut should be torqued to 250 lb-ft and this is what puzzles me with bearing preload.
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Re: Walde's L98

Postby Indycars » January 10th, 2013, 3:01 pm

Walde wrote:Sledge's ego is too big for small avatars. :mrgreen: Should be better now.

Thanks Grumpy for the links and advise.


Now you are normal.......I mean your avatar is normal, I don't know about you! :lol:

Rick
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- Check Out My Dart SHP Engine Project: viewtopic.php?f=69&t=3814
- Need a Dynamic Compression Ratio Calculator: viewtopic.php?f=99&t=4458
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Re: Walde's L98

Postby mathd » January 10th, 2013, 3:57 pm

Walde wrote:
gtr1999 wrote:My specialty is custom building the 63-79 iron diff's for up to 1000hp but the the princicple procedures are the same for your diff. The diff has to come out for best results, yes the pinion seal can be done in the car and I suppose the side yoke seals can as well but you are better served to remove and mount it on a stand.

The side yokes are retained by clips removing them will allow the yokes to be removed, pry out the seals and replace them.

The pinion seal requires measuring the present bearing preload with a 0-30 in/lb dial torque wrench. Lets say it is 5 in/lbs, then remove the yoke and seal. Replace the seal and set the drag back to the recorded reading.

An alterntive method if you don't have a 0-30 dial TW is to mark the position of the pinion yoke,nut, and pinion with small cut off wheel. I like to just touch them so there is a permanent mark, some will paint them but you don't want it to rub off. You can also measure the depth of the nut on the pinion but I like marks better.

Thank you, Sir.

Sorry to bother a bit more with my layman's basic questions. :oops:

If I look at the link Grumpy posted above:

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=5756&p=17560#p17560

Do I understand correctly: the bearing preload is the torque of the nut on the input yoke? Or something else?

Is there a target value for this preload/torque or should I just try to reach the same position by marking it/measuring the distance instead?

I read elsewhere that this nut should be torqued to 250 lb-ft and this is what puzzles me with bearing preload.


I did not work with differential yoke but from my understanding yes the nut is what set the bearing preload(i know the 10 bolt have a crush sleeve inside)
the way i understand it, if you dont change the bearing you just mark the nut and yoke and threaded shaft then put it back where it was like in the picture in ther link. if you chage the bearing you have to set the preload wich get done like this, tighten the nut, take a measurement in lbs/in of the force it take to rotate the yoke(those very accurate torque wrench are costly 200+$), then tighten the nut some more until you reach the correct torque needed to rotate the yoke. if you go too far you have to dissasemble and change the crushsleeve and start the procedure again(some people replace the crush sleeve for something i forgot the name that make a stronger diff and you dont have to change it in case of axcessive torque/bearing preload)

that is based on my understanding of the 10 bolt diff.
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Re: Walde's L98

Postby Walde » January 10th, 2013, 4:17 pm

OK, that starts to make sense to me. Thank you, Mathieu.
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Re: Walde's L98

Postby gtr1999 » January 11th, 2013, 1:59 pm

Hi Just stopped back to check in.
The pinion bearings are tapered roller bearings just like the trailing arms use. They are not the same bearings but the same design. With Trailing arms you setup the bearings for endplay vs preload. Endplay is movement in the bearings in an in/out direction. With preload you go past the endplay until you load the bearings and start to create drag, which is measured in this case in In/lbs.

The is a common believe there is a torque value for the pinion nut when using a stock crush sleeve. This is incorrect. With the stock crush sleeve the bearings are tightened to a value then they will "seat" in use and the value will be lower. So let us take the units I know best, the 63-79 vette diff. When I install new bearings I set the drag to 18-19 in/lbs. When that same diff breaks in the value will be about 5 in.lbs. If the seal starts to leak and it will in time, you only want to replace the seal but not change the bearing set points- UNLESS you are going to rebuild the diff. So the best way is to measure the preload before taking it apart, then replace the seal and tight the yoke nut until the drag is back. As mentioned those dial TW are about $150-$250 so many will just mark the location as I mentioned and leave it like that.

Now when I build a vette diff for use with over 500HP I use a solid sleeve in place of the stock crush sleeve. Those ARE torqued to 125 ft/lbs and machine fit for 18 -20 in/lb or what ever the rating for the particular diff is.
Gary Ramadei
67 coupe- gone- '80
69 vert- SB 4 spd 373's
72 coupe- SB TH400,336's
75 L82- Kids car now- 375 hp, 4 spd,FE-7,411's
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