crazy intermitent no start condition

[grumpyvette]

my old battery went dead from sitting without driving to many times and I replaced it with a new battery, it started up fine and ran great but the next day the car just clicked when the key was turned, surprising because, I tested the battery and it was fully charged........I had replace the pos battery cable at the same time as the battery as it looked slightly corroded,while, never noticing a slight difference in the bolt lengths, so I tightened the bolt to the battery side terminal and the car started easily, but the next day the same exact problem,yet it ran fine all day, again tightening the bolt on the side terminal seemed to be the cure, but it was already VERY tight and I didn,t want to strip the threads, and the cable itself while , seemingly solidly connected was not making a solid connection,.
the next day, the same problem, so I took off the battery terminal bolt and battery cable and closely inspected both, the problem was rather obvious, the new battery terminal was coated with plastic on the exterior side and had a good metallic contact only on the battery side of the cable end and the bolt was a bit long so it bottomed out in the battery threaded connection, before the two conductive surfaces were firmly squeezed into solid electrical contact.
I carefully measured the thread depth and bolt length and removed the bolt and replaced it after cutting off 1/8" in my drill press, by placing the bolt in a vise and using a large drill bit as a mill,that was larger in diam. than the bolt threads, bit drilling strait down into the end of the bolt so the drill bit slowly shortened the bolt. a quick test fit showed the length was now shortened and it clamped the cable firmly, now
over the next week, no problems have occurred.
the reason I bother posting this at all,is to point out the fact that even experienced guys don,t always grasp the significance of the symptoms the first time,some component fails to function, but a few careful checks with a V.O.M. meter will limit the potential suspected sources, is IM sure at least a few guys would have been convinced the new battery was defective or the alternator was not charging, rather than verifying both first they would have made several useless trips to return the battery or bring in the alternator to check it out at the auto parts store where theres a good chance they might have been sold an alternator they didn,t need.

http://www.bcae1.com/charging.htm

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=46972

http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/charging.htm

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/under-the ... oblems.htm

http://www.associatedcontent.com/articl ... nator.html

http://www.ehow.com/how_2210577_check-a ... ttery.html

http://www.corvette-restoration.com/res ... ing101.pdf

http://www.arizonatools.com/tools/searc ... nAodaQPAJQ

BTW if youve got an electrical problem,first check your shop manual for the fuse and fuse able link locations
fuses are located in several locations and fuse-able links near the battery

hese scanners below are popular,
but WITHOUT BOTH A SCANNER AND A FACTORY SHOP MANUAL YOULL WASTE A GREAT DEAL OF TIME

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=609

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=98614

this is what I use

http://www.etoolcart.com/autoxray-scann ... x6000.aspx

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=469&p=6061&hilit=scanner#p6061

tools you really need
SHOP MANUAL
timing light
vacuum gauge
IR temp gun
degree wheel
dial indicator and stand
fuel pressure gauge
V.O.M. meter
torque wrench
magnifying spark plug reader
lift or (4) 12 ton jack stands
basic mechanic hand tools
floor jack

CHECK ALL YOUR FUSES WITH A MULTI METER

90% of your problems will be found just running thru the check list and following the shop manual suggestions, yes diagnostic software , and owning a scanner is a very good idea!

BTW FAULTY GROUNDS, IN MANY CARS AND ESPECIALLY NEWER CORVETTES CAUSE MANY ELECTRICAL ISSUES SO IF YOU HAVE INTERMITTENT ELECTRICAL ISSUES CHECK THEM CAREFULLY

[grumpyvette]

read

http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/Component%20Location%20View%2086.pdf

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54543

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=596

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=1401

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=986

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54543

buy

http://www.obd2.com/scantool/scantool.htm

http://www.amazon.com/gp/explorer/B0002KKIAK/2/ref=pd_lpo_ase/102-7445206-4788911?

or (depends on year)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46030


YOU REALLY NEED THIS


KNOWING WHAT YOUR DOING IS IMPORTANT, TO GETTING GOOD RESULTS!
no one knows everything about all models and years so it helps to have the correct procedures and info in a handy referace source,now you can get by with a HAYNES or CHILTONS manual, or something similar, but for detailed info, OWNING the CHEVY SHOP MANUAL FOR YOUR SPECIFIC CAR IS ALMOST MANDATORY!
I get asked frequently, "how did you know how to do that?"
well, EXPERIANCE plays a big roll, working on similar cars and engines helps, and the INTERNET is a good resource... but theres ALWAYS a big need for DETAILED REFERANCE MATERIAL, SPECIFICALLY MATCHING YOUR PARTICULAR CAR and if you have not yet invested in a SHOP MANUAL for the year make and model of you pride and joy muscle car your either not serious about your hobby, or most likely NOT A SERIOUS HOT RODDER! I constantly see guys SCREWING up installations, or adjustments,if you don,t know exactly what your doing, you need to either let the dealer do it and PRAY his mechanics are experianced and can read, OR..if your like ME, you would rather do it yourself and KNOW its been done correctly...
if your not aware, heres where to order them....

1-800-782-4356

http://helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?r=

your average shop manual may cost $100-$150 ONCE! but youll easily save far more than that in reduced time and screw ups in under a years time or in many cases on one job vs having the dealer do the work!

the oil pressure switch might be defective, if the fuel pump won,t run, even if its new
and at $11-$35 Id just swap it out if your concerned


http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_i ... ept_id=153

http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_i ... ept_id=153

the single terminal sensor runs the oil gauge the dual connector runs the fuel pump ONCE theres about 5 psi of oil pressure but they do fail and they do leak oil when they fail and both are commonly located near the distributor