bits of 383 info



bits of 383 info

Postby grumpyvette » September 16th, 2008, 10:19 pm

got asked recently what hydraulic roller cam ID suggest for a street/strip 383 combo?(obviously theres a wide selection that may work,)
theres at least a few hours of very worth while , and quite useful reading in this thread and links that will prevent you wasting time and money, keep in mind the sub links contain a huge wealth of additional info youll need
you might be amazed at what a couple hours research into the subject will do to help you build a much more durable engine, and actually reading thru links and sub-links and asking questions helps a great deal

ONE GENTLEMAN pointed out ,after shopping around one of the least expensive deals seems to be the EDELBROCK CAM BELOW

http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/22015/10002/-1#

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=7995

milling stroker clearance on 350/383

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OkgZ-i7aLk#t=41

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engine ... m#cxrecs_s

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engine ... shaft.html

http://www.flatlanderracing.com/probe-sportsbc04.html

http://www.maintenanceresources.com/ref ... alance.htm

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=1168

http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/c ... rminology/


viewtopic.php?f=53&t=8310&p=28891#p28891

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=2378&p=6279&hilit=hemi#p6279

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=141&p=5391&hilit=internal+external#p5391

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viewtopic.php?f=50&t=46&p=1541#p1541

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=8540&p=30192#p30192

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=366&p=448#p448

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=3900&p=10338#p10338

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techa ... ine_build/

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=46&p=55&hilit=+books+video#p55

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SB-Chevy 283-400 Hydraulic Roller Camshaft Kit

Duration Advertised 296° Intake/300° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' 234° Intake/238° Exhaust
Lift @ Valve .539'' Intake/.548'' Exhaust
Lift @ Cam .359'' Intake/.365'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle 112°
Intake Centerline 107°
Intake Timing @ .050" Open 10° BTDC
Close 44° ABDC
Exhaust Timing @ .050" Open 56° BBDC
Close 2° ATDC

A FEW HOURS OR EVEN DAYS ,SPENT READING LINKS AND SUB LINKS CAN SAVE YOU MONTHS OF WORK AND THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS


viewtopic.php?f=52&t=5078

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=7722

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=7771

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=7028

http://chevyhighperformance.automotive. ... index.html

IVE used similar cam designs (serration/lift/)in the past with excellent results and $709 for the cam, roller lifters and push rods is a good value, naturally the REST of the components and the cars drive train and the cars intended use will effect the choice
the only thing that makes me hesitate is the quality of edelbrocks cam cores.AS most IVE SEEN are not billet but cast cores which are less durable and on a 383, PLUS you want a small base circle cam......for rotating assembly clearance issues ,one reason I usually suggest this cam in similar combos

one very common mistake is selecting a cam duration, rear gear ratio, compression ratio or set of heads that can,t operate with the other components in the same power band efficiently
the best heads matched to a restrictive intake or the wrong cam will result in a DOG just as surely as a great intake and crappy heads with low compression, or any of a few dozen other miss-matched parts.
if you want impressive bragging level hp you need to design a combo capable of operating efficiently above 5800-6000rpm but thats NOT necessarily going to be a good street engine

example
horsepower =torque times rpm divided by 5252
so 370ft lbs at 3700rpm=261hp
but 370ft lbs at 5700rpm=401hp
and the heads , rear gear ratio,and cam that operate effectively at 3700rpm wont be the same as those matched to 5700rpm, you might also keep in mind youll make approximately 1.1-1.2 hp per cubic inch of displacement and piston speeds below 4200fpm are strongly recommended for long term durability, and hydraulic lifter valve trains seldom do well over 6300rpm, and about 10.2:1 static compression is about the max crappy pump gas will tolerate IF MATCHED TO THE CORRECT COMBO
theres a HUGE MIS -CONCEPTION out there that its always the larger port cross sectional area on any engine that lacks low speed torque, thats responsible for a loss of low speed torque, in most cases it is the combo of a larger than ideal for the application cam duration and a single plane intake, and larger and shorter headers or a restrictive exhaust having been selected ,NOT the cylinder heads port size.
YES cylinder head port cross section will effect the port velocity, but in most cases if your building a performance street cars engine your better off going slightly larger on port size and slightly conservative on the cam duration.

READ THESE LINKS


viewtopic.php?f=52&t=333

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=8460

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=322

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article093/A-P1.htm

IF your having issues with low rpm torque with a 383-406 SBC youve built ask yourself some questions
WHAT CAM ARE YOU USING?
WHATS YOUR IGNITION ADVANCE CURVE?
WHATS YOUR FUEL/AIR RATIO AT PEAK TORQUE?
WHATS YOUR FUEL PRESSURE EVERY 1000,RPM
WHATS YOUR HEADERS BACK PRESSURE AT PEAK TORQUE?
WHAT INTAKE MANIFOLD ARE YOU USING?
whats the PLENUM VACUUM READ AT 2500RPM?, 4500RPM? 6000RPM?
ARE YOU RUNNING A WELL MATCHED REAR GEAR RATIO AND CONVERTER STALL SPEED?
DOES YOUR DRIVE TRAIN GEARING AND TIRE SIZE MATCH THE ENGINES POWER CURVE?

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combining the info posted a 383 sbc has 47.8 cubic inches per cylinder divided by 2.02=23.7 on the chart above, so youll find cams in the correct duration range having a tight 105-108 lSA most efficient at filling the cylinders in many combos,
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you WILL find these threads and sub linked info BELOW VERY useful, so skipping over them is not the best route to take here, yes I know you are most likely not into extensive reading, its worth the time

SAFE piston speeds are best restricted to 4000fpm for stock components and 4500fpm for the better common aftermarket components

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=343&p=16772&hilit=redline#p16772

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=341

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2187&p=5890#p5890

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viewtopic.php?f=53&t=2726&p=26440#p26440

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=428

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=5078

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=5734&p=17492&hilit=heat+chain+moly#p17492

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=181&p=215#p215

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=8540

http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles ... 5/A-P1.htm

http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles ... 1/A-P1.htm

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=10213

http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/det ... 3831P-1230

http://www.chevymania.com/tech/383.htm

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=741&p=1048#p1048

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=8685&p=30565#p30565

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=8485

http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles ... A16-P1.htm

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engi ... ewall.html

http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?s...61&lvl=2&prt=5

http://www.jegs.com/i/Crane/270/119661/10002/-1#

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...hTerm=11532-16

Grind Number: HR-230/359-2S-12.90 IG
Operating Range: 3000-6500 RPM
Duration Advertised: 292° Intake / 300° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 230° Intake / 238° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.5 Rockers: .539'' Intake / .558'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 112°
Max Lift Angle: 107° ATDC Intake / 117° BTDC Exhaust
Open/Close @.050'' Cam Lift: Intake - 8° BTDC (opens) / 42° ABDC (closes)
Exhaust - 56° BBDC (opens) / 2° ATDC (closes)


with either cam youll want a 3000rpm stall converter , about 10.5:1 cpr and a 3.73-4.11:1 rear gear to maximize the performance and a low restriction exhaust, headers and a high flow intake

IM currently running the crane 119661 cam in MY 383 and Ive tested over a dozen cams in that engine, so if its a street/strip combo ID suggest going that route, SMALL BASE CIRCLE AND BILLET CORE.....yeah! YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY,FOR and DURABILITY FOR PARTS TENDS TO COST MORE
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these related links and their sub links will help a good deal IF YOU TAKE THE TIME TO READ THRU THEM

YES IT WILL TAKE HOURS TO READ THRU THE LINKED INFO...IT WILL ALSO SAVE YOU HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS AND WEEKS OF WORK
,

YOU CAN LEARN A GREAT DEAL, ABOUT COMBOS THAT WORK, IF YOU READ THRU ALL THE LINKS AND SUB LINKED INFO BELOW
viewtopic.php?f=69&t=519

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=727

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=3156&p=8424#p8424

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=1070

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/cc ... ewall.html

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=38

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=4120

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=5537&p=16744#p16744

http://www.brodix.com/heads/tonydyno.html

http://www.sporttruck.com/howto/40619/index.html

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=38&p=26432&hilit=+known+engine+combo#p26432

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=5357&p=16030#p16030

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=111

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viewtopic.php?f=51&t=125

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viewtopic.php?f=51&t=2919

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=4925

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2187

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=1458

http://bracketmasters.com/small_block_s ... 383_cu.htm

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=181

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=64&p=77#p77

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=90

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=5078

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-150100/

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=4925&p=13605#p13605

viewtopic.php?f=59&t=1026&p=1900#p1900

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=3156&p=8424#p8424

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viewtopic.php?f=53&t=852&p=1311#p1311

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=392&p=5415#p5415

http://www.vsihp.com/library/CleviteEng ... sGuide.pdf

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=247

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2294&p=13460#p13460

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1249

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/tech/ ... ewall.html

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/cc ... index.html

http://bracketmasters.com/small_block_s ... 383_cu.htm

http://www.compcams.com/catalog/COMP201 ... 010_10.pdf

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=2726

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=462&p=7399&hilit=porting#p7399

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=1718&p=4257&hilit=+silicone+gasket#p4257

viewtopic.php?f=62&t=1430&hilit=+silicone+gasket

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=459&p=563&hilit=+silicone+gasket#p563

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=206&p=390&hilit=+silicone+gasket#p390

its really refreshing to see someone take the effort to do those clearance checks that are so critical to long term durability


for those just starting on their 383 build ups heres some very useful linked info

http://www.hotrod.com/howto/69883_strok ... to_07.html

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/eng ... index.html

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/cc ... index.html


BIGGER is NOT always BETTER, and since both the header primary diam. and length and the collectors , which have a huge effect on the resulting scavenging can,t be changed as we change engine rpms, we need to maximize the cylinder scavenging characteristics so as to maximize the cylinder filling and extend the rpm band of the torque curve but once your have the collectors and headers primary designed to maximize the scavenging in your chosen and intended rpm range and run the collectors to a (X) to induce both increased scavenging and lower restriction to flow theres not much that a larger exhaust past that point can do badly but increase the noise levels while it should be rather obvious that a smaller than ideal exhaust will hurt the upper rpm band as it tends to be a restriction
yes if you have a smaller exhaust diam. it tends to act like an extended collector and increase low rpm torque at the cost OF being A restriction ONCE THE RPMS BUILD PAST A CERTAIN POINT.
having both collectors empty into an (X) pipe EFFECTIVELY instantly doubles the cross sectional area of the exhaust pulse and significantly reduces the return reflected pressure wave, almost making the collectors act as if its running without any restriction compared to a true dual exhaust IF the exhaust pipes are large enough to provide a very low restriction at that point



as I POINTED OUT ABOVE...
theres plenty of fluid dynamics math and research out there to show that the distances the exhaust travels between exhaust pulses and the diam. and length are easily calculated, and past that length the second previous pulse has little effect compared to the current and previous pulse energy and reflective wave
and lets not forget the cam timing displacement and intake port all effect the cylinder scavenging the headers can effectively provide also

http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan...ngth/pipe.html

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html

http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm

http://www.headerdesign.com/

http://www.pontiacracing.net/js_header_length1.htm

http://www.slowgt.com/Calc2.htm#Header
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use a good 7-8 quart baffled oil pan, the added capacity and baffles add a good bit more durability
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if you look very carefully at this canton oil pan youll notice the oil pan rail is dimpled outward to increase rod clearance on the longer 3.75" stroke cranks
most stock oil pans will require a bit of clearance work with a ball peen hammer near the oil pan rail, to move the wall near the seal rail where the gaskets seals,outward in a similar adjustment , to allow the longer stroker crank assembly to clear,but the MASSAGE WORK rarely requires more than a .080 outward adjustment on each side wall WHERE the rod cap rod bolts come the closest to the oil pan rail/wall, and most stock oil pans will accept that without issue!
yeah it takes time and experience too get it done correctly but its just not that difficult to do with very little practice, you may also need to grind the block for rod clearance in some cases with some rods, but be aware that there are rods specifically designed to allow increased clearance that require little or now work to clear a stock block or oil pan

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if you wonder why I suggest using SCAT (H) beam style cap screw connecting rods vs stock or most (I) beam designs this picture should show the increased cam to connecting rod clearance

LETS ASSUME I WANT MY 383 TO MAKE MAX POWER IN THE 5000RPM-6300RPM BAND (mostly so I can run street gears and pump high test gas and a low maintenance hydraulic roller cam, and IM willing to sacrifice a good deal of street drive-ability to maximize my corvettes track potential)

using the above calculators we quickly find I should have about a 3 sq inch intake port cross sectional area, the exhaust should be about 39" long in the primary 1.825 diam,and about 18" -20" long in the collector, about 3"-3.5" diam.
a matching compression of about 10.5:1-11:1 and a cam in the 230-235 duration range at .050 lift, heads that have the same 3 sq inch port and flow about 280cfm this will tend to maximize the power at THAT rpm band, and ideally a 3.90:1-4.11:1 rear gear ratio and a 3000rpm-3500rpm stall converter
but that above will NOT work nearly as well as a smaller and less radical combo in the 1500rpm-4500rpm most cars spend 90% of their time in
its all a compromise and most people don,t realize how miserable that combo will make the daily driven car that rarely get above 4500rpm, where a smaller and longer exhaust would scavenge more effectively but give up some of the potential for max power when the cars raced
your 100% correct if you were looking to cruise at 2500rpm , the cams above will be a P.I.T.A. on a car designed mostly for mid rpm cruising, you could get good performance from them but the street manors in traffic will be less than ideal....certainly manageable but not exactly smooth

youll be far better off with something similar to these, if street manors and low to mid rpm cruising are a higher priority, but have a LONG talk with the manufacturer of your choice about your combo and expectations before selecting your cam and matching your combo gearing and compression, head lift restrictions and flow characteristics

http://www.tpis.com/index.php?module...draulic+Roller

ZZ-9 Hydraulic Roller:
Intake Exhaust This is an emission legal cam which makes
Advertised Duration 282/ 287 over 400HP with our CNC"D LT heads and
Duration at .050 212 /226 F-car headers. Great with an auto or six
Gross Lift .483/.520 speed.
Lobe Separation 112


http://www.crower.com/misc/m_cat.shtml

http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/...00466&x=38&y=9

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft

Im running that crane 119661 cam retarded 4 degrees BTW but detonation has not been a problem, remember that the coolant temp, air temps the engine sees, QUENCH distance, type of head gasket and its construction ,ignition advance,plug heat range,piston to bore clearance, exhaust valve seat width, and oil temp and pollishing your combustion chamber and piston domes, and your AIR/FUEL RATIO , and the effective DYNAMIC compression ratio, have a noticable effect on detonationImage
when you build an engine you generally have some idea as to its intended operational rpm range and the octane level of the fuel you want to use.
normal quality blended gasoline tends to produce its best power at about a 12.5:1 fuel/air ratio, and lowest exhaust emissions at about a 14.7:1 f/a ratio
the higher the effective compression ratio (up to about 13:1) the more torque you can expect to produce from an engine,if you use, high octane gas or race fuels, but the octane of the fuel currently available from pump gas drops the max effective dynamic compression ratio to about 8:1
obviously the components selected must work in the desired rpm and intended power range.
you need to select a cam duration and LSA , and static compression that BOTH matches the static compression ratio and your cars gearing so the effective dynamic compression ratio falls in that range, and intended rpm/power band
obviously if your willing to run race octane fuel and operate the engine at higher average rpms you can increase the cam duration and static compression ratio
BEFORE you buy connecting rods ,talk to SCAT tech guys, before you order connecting rods, and discuss what your doing,and your options and what parts you currently have and part compatibility.
the rods you link too use 3/8" rod bolts
either rod choice is a noticeable improvement over the stock connecting rods being rebuilt.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-25700p/overview/
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here the rods (LINK BELOW)
I generally use on mild performance builds requiring 5.7" rods, but Id ask about the pistons because I generally use full float piston designs
the reason is that these are exceptionally strong rods with 7/16" arp rod bolts, the rod bolt size alone increases strength over 20% but the 200k psi steel is easily 30% stronger than most oem steel rod bolts, increasing the strength of the rotating assembly by easily 50%-70% over stock components

these rods use the stronger 7/16' and its a significantly stronger connecting rod, yes the cost is about $90 more a set, but thats peanuts in the total build cost and the strength is a good increase over both stock and the other rods
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-2 ... /overview/
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http://www.daytona-sensors.com/tech_tuning.html

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yes the cam lobes can very easily contact the connecting rods when the cam index is out of its proper timing, on almost any chevy engine the cam lobe center lines will be spaced at between 103 and 116 degrees, with the piston at TDC theres SUPPOSED to be about .060 MINIMUM clearance between the connecting rod bolts and cam lobes, this is a mandatory clearance check point and a plastic cable tie can be used to gauge clearance, its best done on each individual connecting rod to cam lobe clearance point AFTER the cams been degreed into the block as each connecting rods being installed but Ive generally done it during the several trial assembly points where I check other clearances like block to connecting rod clearance.

thats why on some stroker crank engines a SMALL BASE CIRCLE cam is used to MAXIMIZE CLEARANCE,between the two moving parts.
a cams lobe lift is the difference the lifter moves off the cams base circle between its base circle and its max lobe lift, thus a cam with a 1.1" diam base circle and a .400 lobe lift would have a , .400 lobe lift and if you had 1.5:1 ratio rockers a .600 valve lift, but if you wanted more clearance you could use a smaller base circle at .900, and a 400 lobe lift this would allow the connecting rod, to sweep by with an additional amount of cam lobe to connecting rod bolt clearance, the change in diameter generally requires a swap to a stronger cam billet core . vs cheaper cast core,to maintain cam strength

removing the rod caps during clearance checks while building your 383 ,does seem to allow you to see the clearance issues a bit easier

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the cam rotates while indexed by the timing chain at 1/2 crank shaft speed , there are connecting rods designed to provide additional clearance.
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BTW I JUST TOOK THE TIME TO RE_READ THIS THREAD< ITS A VIRTUAL CLASS IN ENGINE ASSEMBLY THAT SHOULD BE READ BY EVERY LAST MEMBER
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IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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Re: bits of 383 info

Postby grumpyvette » October 2nd, 2008, 8:44 am

this is the type of challenge/upgrade I work on for the guys all the time, AND IM CERTAINLY NOT SUGGESTING YOU CAN,T REACH YOUR GOAL,THRU OTHER ROUTES, BUT THAT APPROACHING THE PROBLEM LOGICALLY ITS FAIRLY EASY TO PLAN YOUR GOALS AND COURSE TO ACHIEVE THEM,Ill make some suggestions but you'll make the choices. keep in mind the cam timing, compression ratio, head flow rates,rear gearing and stall speed MUST match

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65hzax5dPeo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3x_67MdgAOM


please post lots of clear , detailed pictures of your progress,, take your time and get the clearances correct and use lots of assembly lube or you may regret rushing thru the process later

READING THRU these links should help
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=2726

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=247

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2187

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=852

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=509

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=4630

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=6352

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=9955
If your planing on exceeding about 400-430 hp, based on use of a standard production sbc engine casting build-up, and BEFORE you spend a good deal of money in machine work on a stock OEM PRODUCTION block, you might want to know the stock block castings are not ideal, FROM A STRENGTH STAND POINT,yes we all know a dozen guys who swear they built 500 hp sbc combos using a stock block as the basic block,but maintaining 500 hp for a few seconds on a dyno, to verify its peak power level, is not the same as beating on the engine frequently on a near constant basis, in a semi race application, stress is cumulative! what they don,t admit ,or realize is that the the blocks designed for low cost production ,not high performance strength, the main caps have a tendency to flex the cylinder walls don,t remain rigid at near max torque loads and the block was designed to operate at or below 5500rpm at or below 400hp
a bit of reading here might be useful... get out a feeler gauge and look at how thick .060, .090, .120 actually is , and consider how easily a thin section of cylinder wall can flex and crack!

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that IDEA that a 215cc-235cc port size is way to large for a 383 is a very common misconception, ] the port size might be perfect or even too restrictive on a 383, a good deal depends on the compression ratio, cam timing and even if nitrous is used, both the intake runners and headers used.
Ive built race 383 sbc engines with 220-230cc heads that kicked butt, its not just about your cylinder head port size , if your looking to maximize the engines power you must match the intended rpm and port flow rats with ALL the components.
a 215cc-235cc port will not be ideal at low rpms with a small duration cam,expected to drive in traffic, but it could be ideal with a good solid roller cam,and a matched single plane intake on a race engine that rarely drops under about 4000 rpm, its all about matching components to the intended application.


a chart FROM THE BOOK,HOW TO BUILD BIG-INCH CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS with some common cross sectional port sizes
(measured at the smallest part of the ports)
...........................sq inches........port cc
edelbrock performer rpm ....1.43.............170
vortec......................1.66.............170
tfs195......................1.93.............195
afr 180.....................1.93.............180
afr 195.....................1.98.............195
afr 210.....................2.05.............210
dart pro 200................2.06.............200
dart pro 215................2.14.............215
brodix track 1 .............2.30.............221
dart pro 1 230..............2.40.............230
edelbrock 23 high port .....2.53.............238
edelbrock 18 deg............2.71.............266
tfs 18 deg..................2.80.............250

http://www.summitracing.com/search/bran ... toview=SKU

http://www.airflowresearch.com/index.php?cPath=24_115

http://www.profilerperformance.com/raci ... -23-degree

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=333

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=322

first question I'm usually asked is WHY build a 383-401, that's simple, you want to use the 350 block that came in the car to save money and make this a simple operation, the 383-401 stokers make excellent power and the increased displacement has advantages,(more total hp and a lower average rpm band) if a 350 makes 1.1 hp per cubic inch you have about 385hp, the same hp ratio in a 383 gives you about 425hp. and usually at about 300-400 rpm lower average rpm, that's easier on the valve train.
the first thing you'll need to get strait in your mind is the realistic budget you'll be willing to work with and that performance is basically the result of the power to weight ratio and HOW effectively you can get the power to the ground. keep in mind that for a street car your NOT building the engine for max peak power, your looking to build for the best average power/tq curve over the rpm range you'll use most.
BTW be sure you either use a stroker oil pan with extra rod clearance or take a ball peen hammer and expand the oil pan rail on your 350 oil pan,too about 1/16" wider, to get the necessary connecting rod clearance or chances are very good the longer stroke 3.75" crank will cause the rods to just touch the 350 oil pan rails giving you a sound like a bad rocker or rod knock, a bit of careful checking and test fitting will easily avoid this.

AND THAT PLANING FOR AND EVENTUALLY HAVING SLIGHTLY MORE HP THAN THE MINIMUM REQUIRED IS SMART, PLANING DURING THE PARTS SOURCING AND ASSEMBLY PROCESS, simply because you won,t always have the ideal tune or traction available,its silly to shoot for minimum levels yet its a waste of money to over build the engine, to levels you'll seldom use or even want, as theres always compromises in drive-ability

ok first Id point out that its silly to build anything smaller than a 383 displacement simply because you'll make significantly greater total power from a larger engine than a smaller one,COSTS for a 383 are just not that much higher than a 350, and its TOTAL POWER not horsepower per cubic inch your interested in!

next,CORRECTLY MATCHING the cylinder heads, cam and compression ratio , to the rpm range where you'll get the best results is where you'll make most of your power potential.

think it thru before buying parts, and only select those components that match your goal,by far the most common mistake is randomly selecting mis-matched parts because you "GOT A DEAL"

ok lets look at your options, to keep costs reasonable we want to use what we can from your current engine but its insane to limit yourself to parts that restrict your potential power levels severely like the current heads,intake and rear gear ratio.


the formula for hp is (tq x rpm/5252=hp
example
450 ft lbs of torque at 3000rpm=257hp
450 ft lbs of torque at 6000rpm=514hp
because the torque is available at that higher RPM RATE and at the higher rpm useing gearing the rotational force the engine supplied can be applied faster or slower to the rear tires

if your smart your not looking to spend a huge amount of cash but you do want a reasonably quick car,
a few calculations will quickly point out that your really looking to have between 375-450 rear wheel hp, that basically translates into an engine making about 18% higher power at the flywheel, so lets assume or goal is a 450-500 hp engine, now your basic 383 will be correctly designed and matched to a rear gear ratio in the 3.73-4.11 rear gear so you'll maximize the area in the torque curve that can give the best results, the 2800-6300rpm band. so that's where we NEED TOO concentrate our efforts. this should point out the stall speed of about 2800-3000rpm is ideal in this application to match your needs
a 383 with its 3.75" stroke and reasonably street-able cam will be using a cam with between ABOUT 225-235 duration at .050 lift with a matching compression ratio in the 10:1-10.5:1 cpr range

Image

look at this chart, it shows the ideal duration for best results at different rpm bands, well want the MINIMUM DURATION that will supply our needs that's going to be in the 220-230 range for street use,while the 230-235 range would be about ideal for power.but you'll loose street-ability.
we quickly find that duration will match to a 10:1-10.5:1 cpr if we want to use pump gas.
Image
why do I usually suggest a hydraulic roller cam?
read this

http://www.idavette.net/hib/camcon.htm


ok,now the CYLINDER HEADS and intake NEED to supply that RPM RANGE and DISPLACEMENT, youll want a set of heads that flow about 230cfm AT .500 lift at the MINIMUM and 250-270cfm is FAR better,to easily match that requirement.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product2_10001_10002_760699_-1

http://airflowresearch.com/eliminator.php

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/cc ... index.html

http://www.profilerperformance.com/sbc-heads-176.html

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=8310&p=28891#p28891

http://www.compcams.com/Community/Articles/Details.asp?ID=1737510521

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TFS%2D32400007&N=700+304524+115&autoview=sku


those heads and that compression ratio, and cams Ill suggest will match the 3000rpm stall speed but youll need a 3.54:1-3.73:1 rear gear ratio to match.

cams like this

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119661&lvl=2&prt=5

heres the SMALL BASE CAM I USE IN MY 383
NOTICE it has a .900 base circle

a small base circle gives more clearance because your cam lobe lift is the differance between the base circle and the lobe nose, lets assume a .500 lift on a chevy sb
they normally use a 1.5 ratio rocker so the cam lobe needs to be .3334 tall , so with a standard base circle the lobe nose swings in a circle that's about 1.766 in diam.
(
a small base circle cam like my crane with its .900 dia. with the same lobe would only spin in a circle thats about 1.568 in diam. giving about 0.100 inches MORE CLEARANCE TO THE POTENTIAL ROD/CAM CONTACT AREA

Image
why you need to verify the cam to rod bolt clearance

Image
on some stroker applications SOME rods need to have the bolts ground for cam lobe clearance

Image


http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119661&lvl=2&prt=5

this makes slightly better PEAK power, but was less street-able

http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00471&x=20&y=9

stroker kits

http://www.speedomotive.com/ps-522-85-383cid-mighty-mouse-budget-all-forged-stroker-kit.aspx

http://www.speedomotive.com/ps-525-85-391cid-all-forged-stroker-kit.aspx

installing a longer 3.75 stroke crank assembly
Ive built dozens of 383 and 396 sbc engines and the clearance can be done BY YOUR OWN HANDS with a standard HAND HELD drill and a few CARBIDE BURRS OR GRIND STONES in that drill in well under two hours if you take your time and total expense even if you need to buy that drill and burrs will be well under $50 total

Image
Image
when building a 383 stroker ,you need to check rod to cam and rod to block clearances, you should have not problem grinding .080 or so clearance on the lower bore wall edge with zero chance of getting into the water jacket passages or water jacket at the area of the yellow paint indicated in that picture, most people forget to check that area
obviously youll want to check all 8 cylinders and remove the cam and clean carefully before re-installing the cam.

place you old bearings in the block an place the crank in those bearings after coating them with axle grease
slowly rotate the crank and grind a minimum of .060 clearance anywhere the counter weights might touch the block and try NOT to grind more than about .070 any place it touches the block (use a JUMBO size paper clip as a gauge if you don,t have feeler gauges)
next assemble two connecting rods and pistons, one connecting rod and piston for the left one connecting rod and piston for the right, use old bearings coated with axle grease and no rings on the pistons, assemble them to the crank and grind anyplace the rods touch the block, grind minimum of .060 clearance and try NOT to grind more than about .070 any place the rods touche the block (use a LARGE size paper clip as a gauge if you don,t have feeler gauges)move them to the next journal and repeat until all 4 journals and 8 connecting rods clear. now assemble all eight rods and pistons without rings and install them in their correct locations and recheck everything carefully.
next install the cam and index it correctly with the timing chain/gears, rotate the engine slowly and look for clearance issues, between the cam and rods/rod bolts ,you'll need to use a small base cam if there are major clearance issues but in most cases if your cams lift and duration is under about 230 at .05 and .500 lift there should be minor if any clearance issues, usually the outside edge of a rod bolt head is the only area needing a touch up.

once everything clears, wash all the parts VERY CAREFULLY ,TWICE and re-oil then send out to be balanced now you might ask why do that! well, first youll know its done correctly, and that a correctly built 383 will have a very significant hp and torque advantage over any similar 327 or 350

how much power I'll get.

that of course depends on the combo, cpr, cam,ETC. but you can assume about a 40hp/40 ft lbs increase over a similarly built 350

some of the major factors in your engines potential power, is the volumetric efficiency (how efficiently you fill and empty the cylinders) and the octane of the fuel used, compression ratio and detonation limits,
With detonation, prevention the main factors are
Ignition timing
Quench
FUEL OCTANE
DCR
and cylinder heat level
you�ll be fairly safe if you stay under
8.5:1 dcr at 170f degrees
8.25 dcr at 180f degrees
7.8:1 dcr at 210f degrees
and keep the quench in the .036-.043 range
need a few pictures?
this may help
the common areas are the area near the block oil pan rail where the rod bolts touch
and the lower inner cylinder walls and where the cam lobes touch the rod bolts upper shoulder on some types of rods, now you can,t grind on the cam, but you can grind the edge of the rod bolt and you can use a small base circle cam to give greater clearances
AND yes it very common for the stroker crank, counter weights or connecting rods in a 383-400 to touch a 350 oil pan, and make a ticking or knocking sound, if you don,t clearance it a bit more, with a ball peen hammer on the oil pan rail area, Id also check the dip stick as some touch the rotating assembly
for obvious interference, youll need to check this, it can be made to clear rather easily but it must be checked and properly fitted/clearanced
naturally youll measure the bearing journals
Image
Image
Image
Image
QUENCH??
http://www.100megsfree4.com/dictionary/car-dicq.htm
Image
this is what Ive seen posted frequently
Image

Image
why you need to verify the cam to rod bolt clearance
removing the rod caps during clearance checks while building your 383 ,does seem to allow you to see the clearance issues a bit easier

Image
Image

Image
on some stroker applications SOME rods need to have the bolts ground for cam lobe clearance

Ive seen , cylinders number 1,2,5,6 as the most common for contacting cam lobes, posted frequently, but Ive always just checked each rod separately without the rings installed as I test fit the components, Ive usually used a semi straitened, extra large paper clip that measures about .055 as a feeler gauge in the past but currently use a extra long cable tie as its far less likely to scratch a cam lobe and its flexible and easy to use and if it gets pinched between the two theres no potential damage done and a really strong light so I could see half way decent
Image
one of those LED flash lights helps to get light into some areas
Image
quench area:
A zone in the combustion chamber where the piston at top dead center is very close to the cylinder head. Because the piston and cylinder head is cooler than the unburned part of the fuel-air mixture (i.e., end gas), they pull the heat from the end gas. Because the end gas is now cooler, detonation is quenched or reduced. However, the process does form unburned hydrocarbons.

SQUISH
An area in the combustion chamber of some engines where the piston squishes or squeezes part of the fuel-air mixture at the end of the compression stroke. As the piston approaches top dead center, the mixture is pushed out of the squish area and this promotes turbulence, further mixing of the fuel-air mixture and more efficient combustion

run less than about .035 thousands and at high rpm levels the pistons might hit the cylinder heads, run more than about .044 thousands the QUENCH effect of forcing the fuel air mix to the center of the cylinder from the cylinders edge area looses both speed and effectiveness, remember the quench area must be so tight that virtually all the fuel/air mix is forced (squished) into the center area and none is allowed to burn until its squirted into the burn area increasing turbulence and burn efficiency
in theory the much better quench, combined with the shorter more compact area the flame front needs to cover and the far higher turbulence combine to allow more of the pressure to build AFTER the crank passes TDC on the end of compression and beginning of the power stroke

its mostly an advantage in that you get a more even and FASTER burn in the cylinder and less chance of detonation, simply because both the lower time and faster pressure curves favor the ignition flame front vs detonation
look, it takes approximately 40 thousands of a second for the flame from the ignition to cross a 4.25" bore,at low rpms and still takes about 15 milliseconds at high RPM due to the much faster movement of the compressed fuel air mix in the cylinders, lets look at what that means
if the Chevy plug is located 4/5ths of the way to one side that's a time of about 32 thousands for the pressure to build as the flame travels 3.4" in the Chevy but in a compact combustion chamber it could only take the cylinder flame front less than 10-20 thousands of a second to travel across ed the combustion chamber for a complete burn at low rpms, this of course speeds up as the swirl and turbulence increase with increased engine RPMs but the ratios stay similar. this results in more usable energy WORKING on the piston AFTER IT PASSES TOP DEAD CENTER ON THE POWER STROKE. BUT MODERN WEDGE combustion chambers use increased QUENCH to speed the flame front and lower the burn time combined with a smaller combustion chambers.
the difference may be easier to grasp if you think of the quench area as a significant part of the total combustion chamber volume,that's forcing its potential fuel/air mix into the central combustion chamber as a jet of highly compressed F/A mix, like the difference between lighting a cup of gasoline by simply placing it next to a camp fire vs throwing it violently into a camp fire

remember to get the quench clearance between the head and piston in the .038-.044 range
Image

all these threads add useful info on your parts selection

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=109

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=5078

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1115

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=196

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=90

viewtopic.php?f=70&t=2798

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=2630&p=13145#p13145

viewtopic.php?f=57&t=4974&p=15425&hilit=vacuum+gauge#p15425

viewtopic.php?f=70&t=4683

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=726&p=2302#p2302

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=428&p=22216&hilit=stroker+tips#p22216

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=253&p=2124&hilit=alloy+2618#p2124

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=110&hilit=alloy+2618

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=204

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=510

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=5078&p=14433&hilit=stroker+tips#p14433

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1249&p=7598&hilit=stroker+tips#p7598
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: bits of 383 info

Postby grumpyvette » December 28th, 2009, 7:17 pm

ok just a bit of info, if your looking for what we did years ago, when we were limited to ported fuelie and turbo heads

when we used to build 302 z28 engines in the past for street use we tried to build 11:1 cpr motors for the street, (we also built alot of .030 over size 327 engines)and the most effective cam we found after testing dozens back in those days
were these two, in the camaros and a few vega engine swaps
for a manual transmission and a 4.11-4.56:1 rear gear this was frequently used with good results, but we also ran edelbrock SY1 or cross ram dual quad intakes were the crane solid lifter flat tappet cams 114681 and the similar 110921
they were markedly more effective than either of the two off road z28 cams #3927140 or #3965724
in those days no one serious ran hydraulic cams, you would be laughed off the track, solid flat tappet lifters were your only real choice if you expected to buzz 7000rpm plus
http://www.amazon.com/SEPTLS06970819-Lo ... 493&sr=1-5
Image
a few years later we found that those same two cams gave excellent results in a 10.5;1 cpr 383 with a 3.73:1-4.11:1 rear gear and were even better once the aftermarket supplied the dart and brownfield heads, later

http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=110921&lvl=2&prt=5

http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=114681&lvl=2&prt=5

the 114681 had better street manors but it gave up a tiny bit of power

heads like this would have been great back in the 70s and 80s
http://www.profilerperformance.com/sbc-heads-176.html

but keep in mind sunoco 260 high octane gas was 39 cents a gallon and available almost everyplace, if you knew where the sunoco stations were.


IF your installing a longer stroke crank in a SBC, the first step is test fitting and carefully marking the connecting rods and block after carefully checking which rods need clearance, in most cases only two or four cylinders will require cam/rod clearance work, and the amount that is normally required too be removed is small enough that the difference in weight is so minimal it won,t have any significance in the engine balance, so grind the rod only in the potential area of cam to rod interference, only on one side, just at that one location, try hard to allow a .060 rod/cam clearance and no more, and do it in a shallow rounded depression so you don,t create stress risers, with any and all the grind mark lines only parallel to the rods long axis and then polish, the grind marks until the areas smooth with 500 grit sand paper, then clean carefully to remove metallic dust
on many blocks all the block rails will need minor clearance work for the rods to clear the oil pan rails, and don,t forget to verify the counter weight to lower cylinder clearance,
Image

keep in mind the problem is easy to totally avoid simply by selecting rods designed for stroker engines,EXAMPLE
SCAT and LUNATI both make 7/16" rod bolt rods with far stronger than stock forgings, that have cap screw rods designed for much greater clearance


theres a great deal of useful info in the links so read and take advantage of it

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/cc ... roker.html

http://www.chevymania.com/tech/383.htm

http://www.hotrod.com/howto/69883_strok ... index.html

http://www.circletrack.com/tipstricks/4 ... index.html

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=3449

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=2145

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=700&p=973#p973

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=1598

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=247&p=7387#p7387

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1249&p=3752&hilit=burr#p3752

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=804&p=1168&hilit=+burr#p1168

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2834&p=7327#p7327

both these pictures show a rod that was probably over or excessively ground & clearanced for most engines, careful rechecking as you rough grind,the rod, helps, take off as little material as you can to get the required clearance.
Image
Image

don,t forget to verify these areas also

Image
Image

read thru these related threads, posted below, youll find a good deal of info, on installing pistons and rings.

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=509&p=12277&hilit=gapping+rings#p12277

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=5454

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=4630

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=2795

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=2837

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=852

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=3897

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=588&p=869&hilit=hone+plate#p869


as you do more engines youll get experience and the process becomes easier, almost second nature as they say.
an AIR DIE GRINDER and a carbide burr and cut off wheels make the process fast and easier than electric drills

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1831

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1266

keep in mind cap screw rods (bolts screw into the upper rod from cap)
generally require less block clearance work,and in some designs can have much more cam-to-rod clearance and are usually stronger than O.E.M. rods


Image

Image
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: bits of 383 info

Postby grumpyvette » February 2nd, 2010, 11:43 pm

your basic 383 short block can be built on a tight budget, but read thru these links,and sub links for info and tips


http://www.superchevy.com/technical/eng ... index.html

http://speedomotive.com/ps-523-85-383ci ... t-kit.aspx

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0 ... index.html

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=519&p=644#p644

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=3097&p=8240#p8240

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=1598

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=2733

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=2145

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=629

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=703


one of the more important design factors is getting the lubrication system design correctly built or installed
http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/in ... 2&parent=0

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categoryd ... code=11330

http://www.milodon.com/oil-pans/road-race-oil-pans.asp

http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/in ... 1&parent=0

http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/in ... 2&parent=0

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-15-260/

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=65

If I was buying a new oil pan,I would have probable gone with an oil pan design similar to these, after carefully verifying which design fits the application, if I had access to an old pan ID have taken very careful measurements and fabricated, a custom oil pan , but then Im on a strict budget and I do own a couple welders, and having done that, in the past and made patterns from poster board and duct tape I know its a bit time intensive but not very expensive.
but ID rather spend the day buying and welding sheet metal,perforated steel and fabricating than buying or using a stock 5 qt oil pan, on a high performance application
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: bits of 383 info

Postby grumpyvette » March 5th, 2010, 10:21 pm

IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: bits of 383 info

Postby IBob » March 6th, 2010, 1:04 am

Even though we have an 880 block, we were looking at one of these. They are close to the cost of having our block machined.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-150100/
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Re: bits of 383 info

Postby grumpyvette » January 19th, 2011, 6:49 pm

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/

BUILDING A 383 and want a decent FORGED bottom end
IF YOU HAVE A ONE PIECE REAR SEAL BLOCK AND WANT TO USE 6" RODS SCAT LISTS THESE

4-350-3800-6000-L 435065L 350 1-PC REAR SEAL, STD WEIGHT 3.800" 6.000" 2.100" 52
4-350-3875-6000-L 435070L 350 1-PC REAR SEAL, STD WEIGHT 3.875" 6.000" 2.100" 52

they do list these cranks

and these rotating assembly's

CHEVY 350 SMALL-BLOCK 1-PC REAR SEAL 350 MAIN, 4340 FORGED CRANK, I-BEAM OR H-BEAM RODS WITH 7/16" CAP SCREWS

383 4-350-3750-5700-L 2-ICR5700-7/16 FORGED 4.030 FLAT 11.8 11.0 10.3 1-41705-1 1-41705 1-41705BIE
383 4-350-3750-5700-L 2-350-5700-2100 PREMIUM FORGED 4.030 FLAT 11.8 11.0 10.3 1-41710-1 1-41710 1-41710BIE
383 4-350-3750-5700-L 2-ICR5700-7/16 FORGED 4.030 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-41755-1 1-41755 1-41755BIE
383 4-350-3750-5700-L 2-350-5700-2100 PREMIUM FORGED 4.030 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-41760-1 1-41760 1-41760BIE
383 4-350-3750-5700-L 2-ICR5700-7/16 FORGED 4.030 DOME 14.0 12.4 11.9 1-41805-1 1-41805 1-41805BIE
383 4-350-3750-5700-L 2-350-5700-2100 PREMIUM FORGED 4.030 DOME 14.0 12.4 11.9 1-41810-1 1-41810 1-41810BIE
383 4-350-3750-5700-L 2-ICR6000-7/16 HYPEREUTECTIC 4.030 FLAT 11.8 11.0 10.3 1-41820-1 1-41820 1-41820BIE
383 4-350-3750-5700-L 2-ICR6000-7/16 FORGED 4.030 FLAT 11.8 11.0 10.3 1-41823-1 1-41823 1-41823BIE
383 4-350-3750-5700-L 2-350-6000-2100 PREMIUM FORGED 4.030 FLAT 11.8 11.0 10.3 1-41825-1 1-41825 1-41825BIE
383 4-350-3750-5700-L 2-ICR6000-7/16 HYPEREUTECTIC 4.030 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-41827-1 1-41827 1-41827BIE
383 4-350-3750-5700-L 2-ICR6000-7/16 FORGED 4.030 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-41829-1 1-41829 1-41829BIE
383 4-350-3750-5700-L 2-350-6000-2100 PREMIUM FORGED 4.030 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-41831-1 1-41831 1-41831BIE
383 4-350-3750-5700-L 2-ICR6000-7/16 HYPEREUTECTIC 4.030 DOME 14.1 12.9 12.0 1-41833-1 1-41833 1-41833BIE
383 4-350-3750-5700-L 2-ICR6000-7/16 FORGED 4.030 DOME 14.1 12.9 12.0 1-41835-1 1-41835 1-41835BIE
383 4-350-3750-5700-L 2-350-6000-2100 PREMIUM FORGED 4.030 DOME 14.1 12.9 12.0 1-41837-1 1-41837 1-41837BIE

O
IF YOU HAVE A TWO PIECE REAR SEAL BLOCK AND WANT TO USE 5.7" RODS SCAT LISTS THESE
CHEVY 350 SMALL-BLOCK 2-PC REAR SEAL 350 MAIN, 4340 FORGED CRANK, I-BEAM OR H-BEAM RODS WITH ARP 7/16" CAP SCREWS
CI Crank Rod Piston Boresize Type 58cc 64cc 70cc Inclcrp Inclcrprb Compl

383 4-350-3750-5700 2-ICR5700-7/16 HYPEREUTECTIC 4.030 FLAT 11.8 11.0 10.3 1-40600-1 1-40600 1-40600BI
383 4-350-3750-5700 2-ICR5700-7/16 FORGED 4.030 FLAT 11.8 11.0 10.3 1-40605-1 1-40605 1-40605BI
383 4-350-3750-5700 2-350-5700-2100 PREMIUM FORGED 4.030 FLAT 11.8 11.0 10.3 1-40610-1 1-40610 1-40610BI
383 4-350-3750-5700 2-ICR5700-7/16 HYPEREUTECTIC 4.030 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-40650-1 1-40650 1-40650BI
383 4-350-3750-5700 2-ICR5700-7/16 FORGED 4.030 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-40655-1 1-40655 1-40655BI
383 4-350-3750-5700 2-350-5700-2100 PREMIUM FORGED 4.030 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-40660-1 1-40660 1-40660BI
383 4-350-3750-5700 2-ICR5700-7/16 HYPEREUTECTIC 4.030 DOME 14.0 12.9 11.9 1-40700-1 1-40700 1-40700BI
383 4-350-3750-5700 2-ICR5700-7/16 FORGED 4.030 DOME 14.0 12.9 11.9 1-40705-1 1-40705 1-40705BI
383 4-350-3750-5700 2-350-5700-2100 PREMIUM FORGED 4.030 DOME 14.0 12.9 11.9 1-40710-1 1-40710 1-40710BI
383 4-350-3750-6000 2-ICR6000-7/16 HYPEREUTECTIC 4.030 FLAT 11.8 11.0 10.3 1-40750-1 1-40750 1-40750BI
383 4-350-3750-6000 2-ICR6000-7/16 FORGED 4.030 FLAT 11.8 11.0 10.3 1-40755-1 1-40755 1-40755BI
383 4-350-3750-6000 2-350-6000-2100 PREMIUM FORGED 4.030 FLAT 11.8 11.0 10.3 1-40760-1 1-40760 1-40760BI
383 4-350-3750-6000 2-ICR6000-7/16 HYPEREUTECTIC 4.030 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-40800-1 1-40800 1-40800BI
383 4-350-3750-6000 2-ICR6000-7/16 FORGED 4.030 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-40805-1 1-40805 1-40805BI
383 4-350-3750-6000 2-350-6000-2100 PREMIUM FORGED 4.030 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-40810-1 1-40810 1-40810BI
383 4-350-3750-6000 2-ICR6000-7/16 HYPEREUTECTIC 4.030 DOME 14.1 12.9 12.0 1-40850-1 1-40850 1-40850BI
383 4-350-3750-6000 2-ICR6000-7/16 FORGED 4.030 DOME 14.1 12.9 12.0 1-40855-1 1-40855 1-40855BI
383 4-350-3750-6000 2-350-6000-2100 PREMIUM FORGED 4.030 DOME 14.1 12.9 12.0 1-40860-1 1-40860 1-40860BI
395 4-350-3875-6000 2-350-6000-2100S PREMIUM FORGED 4.030 FLAT 12.2 11.4 10.6 1-40900-1 1-40900 1-40900BI



NEED A LOWER COST CAST STEEL CRANK, SCAT LISTS THESE

CHEVY 350 SMALL-BLOCK 2-PC REAR SEAL 350 MAIN, SERIES 9000 CAST CRANKS, I-BEAM RODS WITH 3/8" CAP SCREWS
CI Crank Rod Piston Boresize Type 58cc 64cc 70cc Inclcrp Inclcrprb Compl

383 9-350-3750-5700 2-ICR5700 HYPEREUTECTIC 4.030 FLAT 11.8 11.0 10.3 1-90300-1 1-90300 1-90300BE
383 9-350-3750-5700 2-ICR5700 FORGED 4.030 FLAT 11.8 11.0 10.3 1-90305-1 1-90305 1-90305BE
383 9-350-3750-5700 2-ICR5700 PREMIUM FORGED 4.030 FLAT 11.8 11.0 10.3 1-90310-1 1-90310 1-90310BE
383 9-350-3750-5700 2-ICR5700 HYPEREUTECTIC 4.030 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-90350-1 1-90350 1-90350BE
383 9-350-3750-5700 2-ICR5700 FORGED 4.030 FLAT 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-90355-1 1-90355 1-90355BE
383 9-350-3750-5700 2-ICR5700 PREMIUM FORGED 4.030 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-90360-1 1-90360 1-90360BE
383 9-350-3750-6000 2-ICR6000 HYPEREUTECTIC 4.030 FLAT 11.8 11.0 10.3 1-90450-1 1-90450 1-90450BI
383 9-350-3750-6000 2-ICR6000 FORGED 4.030 FLAT 11.8 11.0 10.3 1-90455-1 1-90455 1-90455BI
383 9-350-3750-6000 2-ICR6000 PREMIUM FORGED 4.030 FLAT 11.8 11.0 10.3 1-90460-1 1-90460 1-90460BI
383 9-350-3750-6000 2-ICR6000 HYPEREUTECTIC 4.030 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-90500-1 1-90500 1-90500BI
383 9-350-3750-6000 2-ICR6000 FORGED 4.030 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-90505-1 1-90505 1-90505BI
383 9-350-3750-6000 2-ICR6000 PREMIUM FORGED 4.030 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-90510-1 1-90510 1-90510BI
383 9-350-3750-6000 2-ICR6000 HYPEREUTECTIC 4.030 DOME 14.1 12.9 12.0 1-90550-1 1-90550 1-90550BI
383 9-350-3750-6000 2-ICR6000 FORGED 4.030 DOME 14.1 12.9 12.0 1-90555-1 1-90555 1-90555BI
383 9-350-3750-6000 2-ICR6000 PREMIUM FORGED 4.030 DOME 14.1 12.9 12.0 1-90560-1 1-90560 1-90560BI

CHEVY 400 SMALL-BLOCK 2-PC REAR SEAL 400 MAIN, SERIES 9000 CAST CRANKS, I-BEAM RODS WITH 3/8" CAP SCREWS
CI Crank Rod Piston Boresize Type 58cc 64cc 70cc Inclcrp Inclcrprb Compl
377 9-400-3500-6000 2-ICR6000 PREMIUM FORGED 4.155 FLAT 11.6 10.8 10.1 1-90610-1 1-90610 1-90610BI
377 9-400-3500-6000 2-ICR6000 PREMIUM FORGED 4.155 DOME 14.2 13.0 12.0 1-90710-1 1-90710 1-90710BI
407 9-400-3750-5700 2-ICR5700 HYPEREUTECTIC 4.155 FLAT 12.5 11.6 10.8 1-90750-1 1-90750 1-90750BE
407 9-400-3750-5700 2-ICR5700 FORGED 4.155 FLAT 12.5 11.6 10.8 1-90755-1 1-90755 1-90755BE
407 9-400-3750-5700 2-ICR5700 PREMIUM FORGED 4.155 FLAT 12.5 11.6 10.8 1-90760-1 1-90760 1-90760BE
407 9-400-3750-5700 2-ICR5700 FORGED 4.155 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-90805-1 1-90805 1-90805BE
407 9-400-3750-5700 2-ICR5700 PREMIUM FORGED 4.155 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-90810-1 1-90810 1-90810BE
407 9-400-3750-6000 2-ICR6000 HYPEREUTECTIC 4.155 FLAT 12.4 11.6 10.8 1-90900-1 1-90900 1-90900BI
407 9-400-3750-6000 2-ICR6000 FORGED 4.155 FLAT 12.4 11.6 10.8 1-90905-1 1-90905 1-90905BI
407 9-400-3750-6000 2-ICR6000 PREMIUM FORGED 4.155 FLAT 12.4 11.6 10.8 1-90910-1 1-90910 1-90910BI
407 9-400-3750-6000 2-ICR6000 HYPEREUTECTIC 4.155 DISH 11.1 10.3 9.7 1-90950-1 1-90950 1-90950BI
407 9-400-3750-6000 2-ICR6000 FORGED 4.155 DISH 11.1 10.3 9.7 1-90955-1 1-90955 1-90955BI
407 9-400-3750-6000 2-ICR6000 PREMIUM FORGED 4.155 DISH 11.1 10.3 9.7 1-90960-1 1-90960 1-90960BI
407 9-400-3750-6000 2-ICR6000 HYPEREUTECTIC 4.155 DOME 14.2 13.0 12.0 1-91000-1 1-91000 1-91000BI
407 9-400-3750-6000 2-ICR6000 FORGED 4.155 DOME 14.2 13.0 12.0 1-91005-1 1-91005 1-91005BI
407 9-400-3750-6000 2-ICR6000 PREMIUM FORGED 4.155 DOME 14.2 13.0 12.0 1-91010-1 1-91010 1-91010BI

CHEVY 350 SMALL-BLOCK 1-PC REAR SEAL 350 MAIN, SERIES 9000 CAST CRANKS, I-BEAM RODS WITH 3/8" CAP SCREWS
CI Crank Rod Piston Boresize Type 58cc 64cc 70cc Inclcrp Inclcrprb Compl

383 9-350-3750-5700-L 2-ICR5700 HYPEREUTECTIC 4.030 FLAT 11.8 11.0 10.3 1-91050-1 1-91050 1-91050BIE
383 9-350-3750-5700-L 2-ICR5700 FORGED 4.030 FLAT 11.8 11.0 10.3 1-91055-1 1-91055 1-91055BIE
383 9-350-3750-5700-L 2-ICR5700 PREMIUM FORGED 4.030 FLAT 11.8 11.0 10.3 1-91060-1 1-91060 1-91060BIE
383 9-350-3750-5700-L 2-ICR5700 HYPEREUTECTIC 4.030 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-91100-1 1-91100 1-91100BIE
383 9-350-3750-5700-L 2-ICR5700 FORGED 4.030 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-91105-1 1-91105 1-91105BIE
383 9-350-3750-5700-L 2-ICR5700 PREMIUM FORGED 4.030 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-91110-1 1-91110 1-91110BIE
383 9-350-3750-6000-L 2-ICR6000 HYPEREUTECTIC 4.030 FLAT 11.8 11.0 10.3 1-91200-1 1-91200 1-91200BIE
383 9-350-3750-6000-L 2-ICR6000 FORGED 4.030 FLAT 11.8 11.0 10.3 1-91205-1 1-91205 1-91205BIE
383 9-350-3750-6000-L 2-ICR6000 PREMIUM FORGED 4.030 FLAT 11.8 11.0 10.3 1-91210-1 1-91210 1-91210BIE
383 9-350-3750-6000-L 2-ICR6000 HYPEREUTECTIC 4.030 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-91250-1 1-91250 1-91250BIE
383 9-350-3750-6000-L 2-ICR6000 FORGED 4.030 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-91255-1 1-91255 1-91255BIE
383 9-350-3750-6000-L 2-ICR6000 PREMIUM FORGED 4.030 DISH 10.4 9.8 9.2 1-91260-1 1-91260 1-91260BIE
383 9-350-3750-6000-L 2-ICR6000 HYPEREUTECTIC 4.030 DOME 14.1 12.9 12.0 1-91300-1 1-91300 1-91300BIE
383 9-350-3750-6000-L 2-ICR6000 FORGED 4.030 DOME 14.1 12.9 12.0 1-91305-1 1-91305 1-91305BIE
383 9-350-3750-6000-L 2-ICR6000 PREMIUM FORGED 4.030 DOME 14.1 12.9 12.0 1-91310-1 1-91310 1-91310BIE


you won,t see much difference in the work required or parts cost if you used a 3.80" ,0r 3.875" stroke crank and pistons to build a stroker in that block to build a 388 or 396 stroker short block either


http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=2208&p=5942&hilit=+piston+suppliers#p5942

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=204

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=2855

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=1168

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=47

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=125

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=4324

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=1458

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=10705

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=3363

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=2692
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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Re: bits of 383 info

Postby grumpyvette » September 30th, 2011, 3:54 pm

Im often asked what cam and which heads would be best for building a 383 sbc and the answer obviously will need to be matched to the application, your drive trains gearing engine compression and intended rpm range, now if your content to build a real torque monster, mid rpm range combo, to run on crappy 89 octane fuel a 9:1 compression ratio, and a cam in the mid 220 duration range and a 3.54-3.73 rear gear ratio, that will seldom need to exceed 5000rpm a mildly reworked set of vortec heads are not a bad choice.
something roughly similar to this build up
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/engine ... ewall.html

if you want to get significantly more peak hp, your going to need much less restrictive heads a longer duration cam and more compression
similar to these build ups, but pay attention to the relationship between cylinder head flow rates, port cross sectional area, cam timing and lift, compression ratio and the resulting power curve and at what rpms that power produced

http://www.trickflow.com/articles/triple_dog_388/

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article085/A-P1.htm

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/art ... A16-P1.htm

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techa ... index.html

READ THIS
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=3810&p=10200&hilit=+small+base+cams#p10200

every choice results in a compromise, an engine that pulls smoothly from just above idle and makes killer torque well below 3500rpm, and gets decent long haul mileage with your over drive transmission and 2.87:1 rear gear ratio, is NOT going to produce the kind of bragging rights type horsepower numbers a higher compression ratio roller cam engine with a larger cam,bigger heads a 3500rpm stall converter and 4.11:1 rear gears will, but that more impressive engines not going to be great on long trips cruising at 1700rpm either like the first combo may be!

Image
Image
if you wonder why I suggest using SCAT (H) beam style cap screw connecting rods vs stock or most (I) beam designs this picture should show the increased cam to connecting rod clearance

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=148
heres free cam selection software to narrow your choices[/color][/size]

just for grins put your info into this program, and don,t lie, and see what cam it suggests
http://www.camquest.com/

http://www.compcams.com/Pages/409/camquest-6.aspx

AS your displacement per cylinder increases the effective valve size per cubic inch decreases so you need a slightly tighter LSA and these charts should help.

Image
Image

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software like the free comp cams software below[/color]
[/size]

http://www.compcams.com/Camquest/default.asp
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=181

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1249&p=7598&hilit=stroker+tips#p7598

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=428&p=7304&hilit=stroker+tips#p7304

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=5078

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=38

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=5537&p=16744#p16744

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=2203

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=4221

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=3543

Image
Image
these two above make good cruising cams in a 9.5:1-10:1 cpr 383 and all require converter and rear gear changes to maximize the results

Image
Image
these two above make good performance upgrades in cars used for daily transportation if your willing to put up with a lope in the idle and some loss of low rpm torque in exchange for more power higher up in the rpm band cams in a 10:1-10.5:1 cpr 383 and all require converter and rear gear changes to work correctly

all these cams below make good performance upgrades in cars used mostly for weekend toys with less and less compatibility for use in daily transportation if your willing to put up with a lope in the idle and some significant loss of low rpm torque in exchange for much more power higher up in the rpm band cams in a 10.5:1-12:1 cpr 383 and all require converter and rear gear changes to work correctly or even function in most cases

Image
Image

Image
Image

Image
Image
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: bits of 383 info

Postby grumpyvette » October 30th, 2011, 10:41 am

to get a TRUE muscle car era lope sound you need HIGH COMPRESSION , reasonably large displacement a free flow exhaust and a cam with a reasonably TIGHT LSA and duration in the 220-250 @ .050 RANGE MINIMUM
heres a good combo as an example

build a 383 or 406 sbc like this, for an old school build


AFR 210cc heads
http://www.airflowresearch.com/index.php?cPath=24_33
11.5:1 cpr
Image
intake
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-300-110/
carb
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-0-80804RD/
406 short block
http://www.ohiocrank.com/chev_sb_shortb.html
a decent 7-9 quart, baffled oil pan that fits your chassis and 1 3/4" full length headers will get you there

Image
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: bits of 383 info heres a street screach build thats inte

Postby grumpyvette » February 22nd, 2012, 2:03 pm

IVE NEVER DEALT WITH THESE GUYS BUT I HAVE BUILT SIMILAR COMBOS THAT PRODUCED SIMILAR RESULTS AND I FELT SOME GUYS MIGHT LIKE SEEING THIS

Engine Specs:
#880 Block 4bolt Block 1pc Seal
Scat 4340 3.750" Forged Crank
Scat 4340 5.7" H Beam Rods
10.1 Mahle Forged Pistons
Dart SHP 200cc/72cc Aluminum Heads (out of the box)
Hyd Roller Cam 247/253 @ 50 .602/618 112LSA
Crane 1.6 Roller Rockers
Edelbrock Air Gap Intake
MSD Pro Billet Dist
MSD 8mm Wires
Quick Fuel Q-750 Carb Jetted @ 72/82
Best ran at 36 degrees of timing

ENGINE PRODUCED 515HP @ 6000 RPM / 503TQ @ 4700RPM We ran up to 6200RPM on other pulls, but this was our final adjustment dyno. From 6000-6200 was pretty consistent and slowly started to dropped off at 6200RPM.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gtd6ZvAw ... r_embedded

http://wengines.com/index.html


Image
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Image
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Here we go

Dart SHP 72cc chamber ATK stock
Throat 89.6%
Bowl 91.5%
Short Side window CSA 2.71
Pushrod CSA 2.11
Length of port 5.53inches
Port volume measured 203.2cc
Avg CSA 2.24
Exhaust throat 85.3%
Exhaust Short side window CSA 2.00
Exhaust Exit CSA 1.85
Chamber volume measured 70.8cc

Flow stock 2.02/1.6 valves with back cut valves from dart.
INT EX
.1-66 56
.2-131 95
.3-188 132
.4-225 160
.5-257 179
.6-257 189
.7-251 194
.8-250 195
.9-249 196
.950-249 210with 1 7/8pipe
Flowed on a 4.155 bore using Champion RC12YC plug Brezenski 1206 radius plate.

Peak velocity over shortside 371fps
Peak velocity at pushrod pinch 335fps
Velocity center of pushrod pinch 300fps

http://high-performance-engines.com/index.shtml
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: bits of 383 info

Postby Indycars » February 22nd, 2012, 4:14 pm

I would have thought that kind of lift with a spider would be very unlikely.

Engine Specs:
#880 Block 4bolt Block 1pc Seal
Scat 4340 3.750" Forged Crank
Scat 4340 5.7" H Beam Rods
10.1 Mahle Forged Pistons
Dart SHP 200cc/72cc Aluminum Heads (out of the box)
Hyd Roller Cam 247/253 @ 50 .602/618 112LSA
Crane 1.6 Roller Rockers
Edelbrock Air Gap Intake
MSD Pro Billet Dist
MSD 8mm Wires
Quick Fuel Q-750 Carb Jetted @ 72/82
Best ran at 36 degrees of timing


CC125.jpg



What did Weingartner Racing have to do with this post, looks like ATK was doing all the work??? Weingartner is only 2 hours from my location.

http://wengines.com/index.html

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Rick
Too much is just enough!!!

- Check Out My Dart SHP Engine Project: viewtopic.php?f=69&t=3814
- Need a Dynamic Compression Ratio Calculator: viewtopic.php?f=99&t=4458
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Re: bits of 383 info

Postby grumpyvette » February 22nd, 2012, 5:06 pm

I think Weingartner Racing did the head port work, and Ive never used those factory lifter retainer spider springs on a cam with over .550 lift and don,t think its a good idea.
IVe always used the retro fit lifters either the horizontal or vertical bar type, on roller cams
Image
this is certainly not ideal on a high rpm and high lift cam
Image
these are not high performance design lifters

Image

this type is more performance capable, especially matched to a rev kit

Image
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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Re: bits of 383 info

Postby grumpyvette » February 25th, 2012, 10:06 am

OBVIOUSLY theres a huge range of potential SBC builds possible and you'll want to select one that best fits your goals, If your intent on building a race 383-406 on a semi limited budget, for a light car Id at least look at these parts, installed on about a 10.5:1 compression short block, with a manual transmission and a 3.73:1-3.90:1 rear gear and 26'-28" slicks, some full length 1 3/4" headers and 1.6:1 ratio roller rockers,and a good 850 cfm holley carb, while that would not be my choice for a car designed for street use where you need some low and mid range, it would certainly produce good peak power

http://www.brodix.com/heads/ik210dyno.php


READ THRU THESE LINKS

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=5078

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=3814

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=38&hilit=carb+spacer

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=181

you will find these threads useful if you read thru and look thru sub links most people don,t take the time to research and plan their engine builds to match the application, and as a result they tend to think they all want 500-600 plus hp from reading the magazine articles , but the truth is that a responsive engine with massive torque in the useable rpm range make for a far better choice if the cars street driven, now thats not saying you can,t have both impressive horsepower and a great torque curve but just keep in mind every choice is a compromise and if you concentrate on building an engine that works in the rpm band you actually use rather than getting mesmerized by peak hp numbers alone youll have better results youll also need to keep in mind it does no good to build a killer engine that produces 500-700 plus hp at 6700rpm and match it to a rear gear ratio and transmission gearing, and shift points or converter stall speed, that keeps the engine in the 1600rpm-6000rpm power range 90% of the time, if your smart your not competing for peak hp bragging rights your trying to build , impressive and instantly responsive torque in the useable rpm band, you also want to remember DURABILITY trumps PEAK POWER, you can,t win in the long term if the cars constantly needing repair and replacement of parts
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-300-110/
Image
at least look at these before ordering your heads
http://www.profilerperformance.com/raci ... -23-degree
Image
Flow data. Flows some air for a 210cc as cast head. Valve job with some clean up only.. Intake only.

0.200 148.0
0.300 217.0
0.400 260.7
0.450 290.4
0.500 300.5
0.550 301.8
0.600 302.2
0.650 302.6
0.700 303.3
0.750 300.4
0.800 300.4

176 Series SBC Head Specifications
Material: Aerospace Specification, A356 Aluminum Alloy (Primary Virgin Ingot)
Valve Angle: 23deg valve angle to provide you with bolt on compatibility for stock accessories
Bore Spacing: Standard
Intake Port Volume & Shape: Oval-Shaped, PRECISION As-Cast 185cc, 195cc & 210cc
Combustion Chamber: Heart-Shaped, As-Cast - 64cc, 70cc, 72cc
Rocker System:Improved Solid Rocker Bar for added stability. May use standard or majority of aftermarket Rockers
Exhaust Valve Diameter: 1.600"
Intake Port Flow: 308cfm,
Intake Valve Diameter: 2.020"-2.100"
Deck Thickness: 1/2"
Milling: Angle - .0070" per cc Flat - .0050" per cc
Spark Plugs: Revised location to improve flame travel. .750 Reach, Gasketed (NGK R5671A-7 or colder)
Valve Train: Standard
Valve Guides: Manganese Bronze to assist in extending valve life
Spring Pocket: Maximum of 1.650 (no deeper)
Valve Seats: Steel
Valve Length: Intake – Stock +.100 long (1.900 Install) Exhaust - Stock +.100 long (1.900 Install)
Valve Covers: Drilled for both, center and rail bolt
Application: High Performance (i.e. street/strip/marine)
Engine Size: 185cc - 350+cid / 6000 rpm, 195cc - 350cid - 383cid / 6500rpm, 210cc - 383cid-427cid / 7000rpm
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: bits of 383 info

Postby Indycars » February 25th, 2012, 1:30 pm

They look like a darn good deal with options like 2.08 intake valve and 3 chamber sizes to pick from. When I ran thru the options:

SBC 23 Degree Cylinder Head, 11/32 Guides & Steel Seats
Intake Port Size: 210cc Intake Ports
Chamber Size: 70cc As Cast Chamber
Spark Plug Orientation: Straight Plug
Intake Valves: 2.08/1.600 Valves ADD $25
Spring Package: Standard .650 Lift 1.525 Dual Springs, Retainers, Keepers

Price Each: $570

They do look a little limited at the higher lifts. They stop flowing any more after .500 lift and with the 1.6 rocker ratio the valve is lifting .592".

Pro-Filer-176-Series_200ccPorts.jpg


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Re: bits of 383 info

Postby grumpyvette » June 17th, 2012, 9:17 am

keep in mind that low lift flow below .500 lift produces air flow for a great deal longer time than the peak lift does and so its far more critical to the power curve.
flow at .500 lift and below could easily be three times longer in duration than peak flow above .500 lift , then consider that at 6000rpm the intake valve cycles from fully seated to open to fully seated in less than 1/50th of a second and youll realize why low lift flow is usually more important
Image

BEFORE YOU START TO BUILD AN ENGINE< THINK THRU YOUR GOALS<BUDGET AND OPTIONS!
yes all to often youll start out with a semi reasonable budget and a detailed list of parts, and by the time the machine shop labor and all the little things you forgot to add in or things that became a requirement to get the combo running correctly are added into the final bill,
you look back and think back and realize you could have purchased a 502-572 big block for the true cost of that 383- 427 small block you built, and feel like puking! and realize that you need to think things thru and ask a great many more questions on your next build......thats called GAINING EXPERIENCE!


example, its hard to beat a 700hp 496 big block for $8K
http://www.vortecproperformance.com/eng ... tions.html
and thats hardly the only option
http://www.scoggindickey.com/?http://www.sdparts.com

http://www.herbertcams.com/dhp-555-stre ... ine-675hp/
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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