your bound to notice I install links too useful info in most threads,
now obviously not all the info, posted in all threads will be helpful in all cases,
but you'll eventually come to realize the value of reading thru the info links.
theres a great deal of useful info, in those links
info that you might think is useless to you now, but you'll be amazed at the number of times in the future your going to say to yourself...., damn! I remember reading something about that, now where was that posted, and a brief search will turn up your info!, info you swore at the time was a waste of your time to read thru, I know that's been very common for me and I'm sure it will be for those guys that really want to learn how and why things work!.

These specs are for stock-type bolts with light engine oil applied to the threads and the underside of the bolt head. Other lubes, moly, and aftermarket bolts will have different torque specs.


http://paceperformance.com/index.asp?Pa ... tom&ID=658

Small Chevy
Fastener Type Torque Spec
7/16 in. outer main cap bolt 65 ft.-lbs.
7/16 in. inner main cap bolt 70 ft.-lbs.
3/8 in. outer main cap bolt 40 ft.-lbs.
11/32 in. connecting rod bolt 38-44 ft.-lbs.
3/8 in. connecting rod bolt 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts 65 ft.-lbs.
Screw-in rocker arm studs 50 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts (cast iron heads) 30 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 60-70 ft.-lbs.
Cam sprocket bolts 18-20 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 60 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 65 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Bellhousing bolts 25 ft.-lbs.
Exhaust manifold bolts 25 ft.-lbs.

Big Chevy

http://hotrodshack.com/torque_settings.htm
Fastener Type Torque Specs
Main cap bolt, 396-427 2-bolt 95 ft.-lbs.
Main cap bolt, 396-454 4-bolt (inner/outer) 110 ft.-lbs.
3/8 in. connecting rod bolt 50 ft.-lbs.
7/16 in. connecting rod bolt 67-73 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts, long 75 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts, short 65-68 ft.-lbs.
Screw-in rocker arm studs 50 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts (cast iron head) 25 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 65 ft.-lbs.
Cam sprocket bolts 20 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 85 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 60 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Bellhousing bolts 25 ft.-lbs.
Exhaust manifold bolts 20 ft.-lbs.

use the links to calculators and refer back to them when needed

http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

http://www.bgsoflex.com/auto.html

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=342&p=418&hilit=+wrench#p418

http://www.frontiernet.net/~tmeyer/torque.html

http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/torquespecs.htm

http://www.nationaltbucketalliance.com/ ... torque.asp



http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=50&p=1253&hilit=+cement#p1253

http://vettaid.com/default.aspx?cid=RECSOtkYNdo=

http://www.hotrodshack.com/torque_settings.htm

http://boxwrench.net/specs/chevy_sb.htm

http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles ... index.html

http://www.boxwrench.net/specs/chevy_bb.htm

http://www.boxwrench.net/specs_index.htm

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=111

viewtopic.php?f=59&t=1390

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1027

http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticl ... index.html

http://corvettefever.automotive.com/797 ... index.html

http://www.davidfarmerstuff.com/

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/

http://www.boxwrench.net/specs_index.htm

one very good CD to get if your a beginner to engine assembly

http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html

theres a good deal of info in the sub links of this thread above and below

check with the bearing manufacturer and look in your shop manual, first BUT THESE specs WILL BE CLOSE OR EXACT in most SBC applications

Piston-to-wall clearance: 0.005 inch
Main bearing clearance: 0.023-0.027 inch
Rod bearing clearance: 0.025-0.027 inch
Rod side clearance: 0.016-0.020 inch
Rod side-to-piston clearance: 0.125 inch
Ring end gap: 0.022/0.020/0.032 inch
Piston-to-head clearance: 0.041 inch
ring end gap, .004 PER inch of bore diam, IE 4" bore .016 end gap
HYPER EUTECTIC pistons

http://kb-silvolite.com/article.php?action=read&A_id=35

http://kb-silvolite.com/article.php?action=read&A_id=56

http://kb-silvolite.com/article.php?action=read&A_id=54

TPI Torque Specifications

Below are the torque specifications as designated by GM for Tuned Port Injection intakes. Please note that some specifications are in lb. ft., and some are in lb. in.

Manifold to Runner Bolts 25 lb. ft.
Runner to Manifold Bolts 25 lb. ft.
Fuel Rail Attaching Bolts 15 lb. ft.
Throttle Body Attaching Bolts 18 lb. ft.
Throttle Position Sensor 18 lb. in.
Idle Air Control Valve 13 lb. ft.
Throttle Body Coolant Plate 27 lb. in.
Throttle Body Cover Plate 30 lb. in.
Power Brake Vacuum Fitting 108 lb. in.
Fuel Line Nuts 20 lb. ft.
Fuel Tube Bracket Bolt 25 lb. ft.
Fuel Pressure Connection 115 lb. in.
Pressure Regulator Base to Rail 44 lb. in.
Pressure Regulator Bracket 44 lb. in.
Outlet Tube to R/H Rail Retainer 44 lb. in.
MOPAR
please note that some specifications are in inch-pounds rather than foot-pounds. Read the charts carefully to prevent broken bolts due to excessive torquing.

HEMI
426
Fastener Type Torque Spec
Main cap bolts 100 ft.-lbs.
Main cap tie bolts 45 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts (7/16 in.) 75 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts (iron head) 70-75 ft.-lbs.*
Cylinder head bolts (aluminum head) 65-70 ft.-lbs.*
Camshaft cap screw (Street Hemi) 40 ft.-lbs.
Camshaft cap screw(Race Hemi) 75 ft.-lbs.
Rocker shaft bracket bolts 30 ft.-lbs. max
Harmonic damper bolt 135 ft.-lbs.
Flexplate bolts 70 ft.-lbs.
Torque converter to flexplate bolts 65 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel cap screws 70 ft.-lbs.
Clutch cover to flywheel bolts 30 ft.-lbs.

* follow factory torque sequence


BIG CHRYSLER
383, 400, 440 B/RB Engines
Fastener Type Torque Specs
Main cap bolts 85 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts (plain) 45 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts (heavy duty) 50-55 ft.-lbs.
Crankshaft rear bearing seal retainer bolts 30 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts 70 ft.-lbs.*
Rocker shaft bracket bolts 25 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts 40 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump cover bolt 10 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump attaching bolt 35 ft.-lbs.
Oil pan bolts 15 ft.-lbs.
Cam locking bolt 35 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 135 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 55 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel housing to engine block bolts 50 ft.-lbs.
Flexplate to torque converter bolts 270 in.-lbs.
Water pump bolts

30 ft.-lbs.
Fuel pump bolt

30 ft.-lbs.
Starter mounting bolts

50 ft.-lbs.
Exhaust manifold nuts

30 ft.-lbs.

* follow factory torque sequence


SMALL CHRYSLER
273, 318, 340, 360 A Engine
Fastener Type Torque Spec
Main cap bolts

85 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts (plain)

45 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts, 273-318

85 ft.-lbs.*
Cylinder head bolts, 340-360

95 ft.-lbs.*
Rocker shaft bracket bolts

17 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts

35 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump cover bolt

95 in.-lbs.
Oil pump attaching bolt

35 ft.-lbs.
Oil pan bolts

15 ft.-lbs.
Cam locking bolt

35 ft.-lbs.
Cam thrust plate bolts

210 in.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt

135 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts

55 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel housing to engine block bolts

50 ft.-lbs.
Flexplate to torque converter bolts

270 in.-lbs.
Clutch housing bolts

30 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts

30 ft.-lbs.
Water pump bolts

30 ft.-lbs.

* Follow factory torque sequence

FORD
These specs are for stock-type bolts with light engine oil applied to the threads and the underside of the bolt head. Moly and other lubes offer reduced friction and increased bolt tension, which will affect the torque figure. If you use aftermarket performance bolts like ARP's, you should follow the recommended torque specifications.

260, 289, 302
Fastener Type Torque Spec
Main cap bolts 60-70 ft.-lbs.
Outer main cap bolts, 35-40 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts 19-24 ft.-lbs. (40-45 ft.-lbs. for 289 HP Boss 302)
Cylinder head bolts 65-72 ft.-lbs.
Rocker arms 17-23 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts 23-25 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 23-28 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cam thrust plate bolts 8-10 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolts 70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts 12-15 ft.-lbs.

351W
Fastener Type Torque Specs
Main cap bolts 95-105 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts 90-100 ft.-lbs.
Rocker arms 17-23 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts 23-25 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 23-28 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cam thrust plate bolts 8-10 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts 12-15 ft.-lbs.

351C, 351M
Fastener Type Torque Spec
Main cap bolts

95-105 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts

40-45 ft.-lbs. (45-50 ft.-lbs. for Boss 351C)
Cylinder head bolts
(follow factory torque sequence)

105 ft.-lbs. (125 ft.-lbs. for Boss 351C)
Rocker arms (non-adjustable)

18-22 ft.-lbs.
5/16 in. intake manifold bolts

21-25 ft.-lbs.
3/8 in. intake manifold bolts

28-33 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt

25 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts

40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cam thrust plate bolts

9-12 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt

70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts

75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts

35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts

12-18 ft.-lbs.

429-460
Fastener Type Torque Spec
Maincap bolts

95-105 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts

40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts

140 ft.-lbs.
Rocker arms (non-adjustable)

18-22 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts

25-30 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt

25 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts

40-45 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt

70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts

75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts

35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts

12-18 ft.-lbs.

360, 390, 406, 427, 428 FE
Fastener Type Torque Spec
Main cap bolts

95-105 ft.-lbs.
Crossbolts for 406 and 427

40 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts

40-45 ft.-lbs. (53-58 ft.-lbs. for 406 and 427)
Cylinder head bolts

80-90 ft.-lbs. (100-110 ft.-lbs. for 1963-67 427)
Rocker arm shaft bolts

40-45 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts

32-35 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt

12-15 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts

40-45 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt

70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts

75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts

35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts

12-15 ft.-lbs.

BTW ROD BOLT STRETCH USUALLY FALLS IN THE .0055 RANGE but VERIFY, THE SPECS YOUR APPLICATION REQUIRES


viewtopic.php?f=50&t=989&p=4731&hilit=+stretch+gauge#p4731

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=247&p=7191&hilit=torque+wrench#p7191

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=342&p=418&hilit=+torque+wrench#p418

http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

http://www.idavette.net/tech/ratioc.htm

http://www.venommotorsports.com/library ... ulator.asp

http://www.camaroz28.com/calcs/index.shtml

http://www.avenger-valkyrie.org/techinf ... lators.htm

heres some calculators you might use

http://www.angelfire.com/fl/procrastination/motor.html

DROPPING THE DISTRIBUTOR BACK IN
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=54


http://www.thirdgen.org/calculations

http://www.wallaceracing.com/lpv.php

http://www.velocity-of-sound.com/veloci ... lator3.htm

http://www.bgsoflex.com/auto.html

http://www.aacncclub.com/crucemotor/com ... ratio.html

http://www.bgsoflex.com/holley.html

http://www.coastdriveline.com/htmlfolde ... ator2.html

http://www.rickwrench.com/bunchofcalculators.html

http://www.ford-trucks.com/calculators/index.php

http://hotrodworks.net/hotrodmath/hotrodmath.html

http://kb-silvolite.com/calc.php

http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/lovellgascalc.html

http://www.dsm.org/tools/calchp.htm

http://www.wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_hp_dp.htm

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calccr.htm

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/index.html#jcalc

http://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_da.htm

http://www.wallaceracing.com/throttle-b ... ameter.php

http://www.diamondracing.net/cocalc.htm

http://www.crower.com/misc/valve_timing_chart.html

http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm

http://www.ondoperformance.com/page2.html

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/camshaft.html

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html

http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan...ngth/pipe.html

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner ... index.html

http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx

gear spread sheet that comes in handy THANKS TO 1FATGMC

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner ... index.html

HERES OTHER INFO LINKS

http://www.wallaceracing.com/reargear.htm

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcmph.htm

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrpm.htm

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrgr.htm

http://paceperformance.com/index.asp?Pa ... tom&ID=658

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/spe ... ngine.html

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/722.cfm

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/transc.htm#tabtop

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/transc.htm#Auto

http://www.pipeflowcalculations.com/airflow/index.htm

http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_pr...torquemyth.htm

http://tom.marshall.tripod.com/exhaust.html

http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan...a/effarea.html

http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan...ngth/pipe.html

http://www.pontiacracing.net/js_header_length1.htm

http://www.wallaceracing.com/runnertorquecalc.php

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question172.htm

http://jameshalderman.com/data/misc.htm

http://www.auto-ware.com/software/eap/eap.htm

a few resources to allow you to calculate the ideal results
http://www.tmossporting.com/tabid/1805/Default.aspx

heres some differant calculators

http://www.kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp2

http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php

http://www.smokemup.com/auto_math/compression_ratio.php

http://not2fast.wryday.com/turbo/com...pressure.shtml
average the results

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=50&p=1253&hilit=+cement#p1253

theres similar info for many common engines in the links

http://www.frontiernet.net/~tmeyer/torque.html

Big Chevy

Fastener Type Torque Specs

Main cap bolt, 396-427 2-bolt 95 ft.-lbs.
Main cap bolt, 396-454 4-bolt (inner/outer) 110 ft.-lbs.
3/8 in. connecting rod bolt 50 ft.-lbs.
7/16 in. connecting rod bolt 67-73 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts, long 75 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts, short 65-68 ft.-lbs.
Screw-in rocker arm studs 50 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts (cast iron head) 25 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 65 ft.-lbs.
Cam sprocket bolts 20 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 85 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/Flexplate bolts 60 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Bell housing bolts 25 ft.-lbs.
Exhaust manifold bolts 20 ft.-lbs.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


KNOWING WHAT YOUR DOING IS IMPORTANT, TO GETTING GOOD RESULTS!
no one knows everything about all models and years so it helps to have the correct procedures and info in a handy referace source,now you can get by with a HAYNES or CHILTONS manual, or something similar, but for detailed info, OWNING the CHEVY SHOP MANUAL FOR YOUR SPECIFIC CAR IS ALMOST MANDATORY!
I get asked frequently, "how did you know how to do that?"
well, EXPERIANCE plays a big roll, working on similar cars and engines helps, and the INTERNET is a good resource... but theres ALWAYS a big need for DETAILED REFERANCE MATERIAL, SPECIFICALLY MATCHING YOUR PARTICULAR CAR and if you have not yet invested in a SHOP MANUAL for the year make and model of you pride and joy muscle car your either not serious about your hobby, or most likely NOT A SERIOUS HOT RODDER! I constantly see guys SCREWING up installations, or adjustments,if you don,t know exactly what your doing, you need to either let the dealer do it and PRAY his mechanics are experianced and can read, OR..if your like ME, you would rather do it yourself and KNOW its been done correctly...
if your not aware, heres where to order them....

1-800-782-4356

http://helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?r=

your average shop manual may cost $100-$150 ONCE! but youll easily save far more than that in reduced time and screw ups in under a years time or in many cases on one job vs having the dealer do the work!

IF your going to use ARP main cap studs THE TORQUE SETTINGS ARE DIFFERENT than the original BOLTS, the STUDS ARE STRONGER, BUT,you might also consider that main studs generally install after cleaning the threads in the block with a tap,blowing them dry with high pressure air, oiling the studs course threads with the thread sealant and fine threads end with the ARP thread lube, when you screw them into the block the full thread depth,by hand, then get backed out one turn, the main caps installed and the nuts torqued in stages to seat and hold the main caps, now LOOK at those STUDS the end in the block threads is SAE COURSE thread, the end your torquing the nut on is SAE FINE THREAD with a much different PITCH that requires less tq to give the same clamp loads



http://www.arp-bolts.com/catalog/Catalog.html

Why do they get backed out by one turn? I'm trying to think of the physics behind it, but I can't think of any good reason. What is the physics answer, Grumpy?

the threads must bear evenly and align correctly with the studs center line, for the stud to apply max loads over the total threaded surface ,the threaded section must be under tension alone and engage the total threaded surface in the block, if the stud is torqued into place, you've preloaded the threads bearing the load and they are partly under compressive loads ,your basically jacking the bottom of the threaded hole away from the threaded section, and applying THOUSANDS of lbs of extra stress to the blocks web area if you torque the threads to the same 100 ft lbs the original bolts were tightened to, the threads in the block will now have added stress once the full tension loads on the studs and main caps is applied by torquing the nuts on the studs ,theres added stress on the block, if the studs have bottomed out and are pushing on the bottom of the threaded hole making the block web area more likely to crack or the crank saddles to distort.
keep in mind FACTORY BOLTS are made slightly shorter to PREVENT the bolt tip bottoming out in the hole, but bolts cause wear on the threads because they are tightened while the bolts still advancing deeper into the threaded block, studs cause far less wear because they fully engage the threads bearing the loads before the tensile load is applied

heres what ARP says
"STUDS vs. BOLTS

ARP recommends the use of main studs over bolts whenever possible for several key reasons. First is the ability to obtain more accurate torque readings because studs don’t “twist” into the block. All clamping forces are on one axis. By the same token, there is less force exerted on the block threads, which contributes to improved block life (very critical on aluminum blocks). Finally, there are factors of easier engine assembly and proper alignment of caps every time"

ARP's instructions (for head studs)state that you should thread the studs into the block until they're hand-tight, but with the head on the block, this is difficult. Fortunately, ARP was thoughtful enough to incorporate a fitting for an Allen wrench into the head of each stud. So, using an Allen wrench, I threaded the studs into the head until I could no longer turn the wrench with two fingers. This method seems to have worked nicely

1. Clean and chase appropriate threads in
block to ensure proper thread engagement
and accurate torque readings.
2. All hardware (and caps) should be
cleaned and inspected prior to installation,
looking for any shipping damage or defects.
3. Screw studs into block, finger tight
ONLY. For permanent installation, apply
Loc-tite (or similar adhesive) sparingly
to threads. Be sure and install the caps
promptly before the cement sets to prevent
misalignment of studs in block.
1. Clean and chase appropriate threads in
block to ensure proper thread engagement
and accurate torque readings.
2. All hardware (and caps) should be
cleaned and inspected prior to installation,
looking for any shipping damage or defects.
There are a number of important considerations
when installing ARP main studs.
3. Screw studs into block, finger tight
ONLY. For permanent installation, apply
Loc-tite (or similar adhesive) sparingly
to threads. Be sure and install the caps
promptly before the cement sets to prevent
misalignment of studs in block.

First and foremost is making sure the
block and studs are as clean as possible.
Foreign matter and debris can easily affect
the quality of thread engagement and
cause erroneous torque readings. Do not
re-cut threads in the block – use the special
“chaser” taps as listed on page 87 of this catalog.
This will preserve the integrity of the
threads and provide better engagement.
Calibrate your torque wrench – even new
wrenches have been known to be off by as
much as 10 foot pounds! Use consistent
tightening techniques.
4. Install main caps, checking for binding
and misalignment. Lubricate threads, nuts
and washers with oil or ARP moly assembly
lubricant before installation. Note that torque
specs will vary by lubricant. Moly lube is
most consistent. Have block align honed.
5. Using the instructions provided with
the studs, tighten the nuts to proper
torque values three times. NOTE: If using
Loc-Tite or similar cement, proper preload
must be achieved prior to it setting up.




http://www.arp-bolts.com/FAQ/FAQ.html

I usually use this sealant (sparingly)on the course ends of main cap studs that screw in hand tight, and ESPECIALLY on head studs that enter water jackets



http://www.permatex.com/products/Automo ... ealant.htm





keep in mind the course thread section is not being screwed in or the threads moved as the nut on the fine thread upper end is torqued to spec. and that thread requires the ARP thread lubricant to get the correct stretch and that stud needs to be cycled up to full torque then released and re torqued,a minimum of three times to get the stretch/tq correct

read thru these
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=989&p=4731#p4731


http://www.aptfast.com/ARP_Additional_S ... _specs.htm

http://www.futek.com/boltcalc.aspx

http://www.imperialinc.com/pdf/A_Fasten ... Charts.pdf

http://www.zerofast.com/torque.htm

lets assume your looking for a 3/8" drive inch lb torque wrench to tighten little things like intake bolts, logic should tell you that a decent quality tool will not be dirt cheap, and that you don,t need the best available tool for that use so you start pricing your options
the whole OBJECT of you using a torque wrench is to allow you to maintain consistent TORQUE values, do you really think the HF torque wrench will be consistent, when most other sources what 4-5 times as much, think it thru, obviously you don,t need a lab quality tool, but the cheapest option is not likely to be a rational choice either.


harbor freight ($15)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... number=807

home depot ($74)
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1 ... ogId=10053

sears($69)
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... que+wrench

tool source ($57)
http://www.toolsource.com/torque-wrench ... 5_778.html


GOOD QUALITY ($225)
http://www.toolsource.com/dial-dual-sca ... 94631.html


http://www.webbikeworld.com/r3/torque-wrench/

WATCH THIS VIDEO
NEVER USE A TORQUE WRENCH LIKE A BREAKER BAR TO LOOSEN BOLTS as it TENDS TO QUICKLY DESTROY ITS ACCURACY & consistency

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgwwOJ0B ... r_embedded

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgwwOJ0B ... r_embedded

IF your just getting into building engines youll need a few basic tools like a torque wrench and a decent piston ring compressor, a digital caliper,some plasti-gauge and modeling clay, etc.

ID strongly suggest
DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR
buy these books, FIRST it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. youll save thousands of dollars and thousands of hours once youve got a good basic understanding of what your trying to do!
use the search feature on this site and put in key words like clearance, bearings, rings,honing,steel,lubricant, etc. and read the linked info


http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html

how to assemble an engine basics on video


these books


HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD
http://www.amazon.com/Build-Performance ... amp;sr=1-1

JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines

http://www.amazon.com/John-Lingenfelter ... amp;sr=1-1


SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS

http://www.amazon.com/Smokey-Yunicks-Po ... amp;sr=1-1



youll need a basic cost effective engine stand, you can resell later if you want too, just DON,T EVEN THINK about the cheap three leg designs
like this


get something like this

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34924

IF your just getting into building engines youll need a few basic tools like a torque wrench and a decent piston ring compressor, a digital caliper,some plasti-gauge and modeling clay, etc.

ID strongly suggest
DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR
buy these books, FIRST it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. youll save thousands of dollars and thousands of hours once youve got a good basic understanding of what your trying to do!
use the search feature on this site and put in key words like clearance, bearings, rings,honing,steel,lubricant, sealant,etc. and read the linked info


http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html

how to assemble an engine basics on video


these books


HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD
http://www.amazon.com/Build-Performance ... amp;sr=1-1

JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines

http://www.amazon.com/John-Lingenfelter ... amp;sr=1-1


SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS

http://www.amazon.com/Smokey-Yunicks-Po ... amp;sr=1-1



youll need a basic cost effective engine stand, you can resell later if you want too, just DON,T EVEN THINK about the cheap three leg designs
like this


get something like this

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34924


heres a few basic threads to get you started

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=38

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=324

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=181

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=52

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=247

viewtopic.php?f=70&t=967

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=90