torque specs , calculator links etc.



torque specs , calculator links etc.

Postby grumpyvette » February 17th, 2009, 9:40 am

your bound to notice I install links too useful info in most threads,
now obviously not all the info, posted in all threads will be helpful in all cases,
but you'll eventually come to realize the value of reading thru the info links.
theres a great deal of useful info, in those links
info that you might think is useless to you now, but you'll be amazed at the number of times in the future your going to say to yourself...., damn! I remember reading something about that, now where was that posted, and a brief search will turn up your info!, info you swore at the time was a waste of your time to read thru, I know that's been very common for me and I'm sure it will be for those guys that really want to learn how and why things work!.

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=10012&p=38779#p38779
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1
http://arp-bolts.com/pages/technical_installation.shtml
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dip the head bolt threads in sealant before installation to prevent coolant leaks

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http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/showth ... LS1-motors
if you don,t have a particular engines torque sequence its a safe bet that you start with the center head bolts and tighten each , in stages in a spiral outward pattern, then repeat the sequence with each increased torque setting movng in that same spiral increasing diam spiral moving from the center to outer bolt locations.
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SBC HEADS
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Big Chevy
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PONTIAC
APPLICATION TORQUE TORQUE LUBE INCRE.
301 Engine 350-455
Bolt, main bearing cap to block 70 lb-ft 100 lb-ft oil 20 lb-ft
Bolt, rear main cap to block 100 120 oil 20
Bolt, cylinder head 85 95 * oil 20
Bolt, flywheel to crankshaft 95 95 dry 40
Bolt, oil pan to block 12 12 dry 4
Bolt, oil baffle to bearing cap 15 15 locktite none
Bolt, oil pump to block 30 30 locktite 15
Bolt, oil pump bottom cover 15 15 locktite 5
Bolt, harmonic balancer to crankshaft 160 160 dry none
Bolt,exhaust manifold to head 40 40 antisieze 15
Bolt, intake manifold to head 40 40 dry 10
Bolt, front cover to intake 12 12 dry none
Bolt, sprocket to camshaft 40 40 dry none
Bolt, rocker arm cover to head 8 8 dry 4
Bolt, clutch pressure plate to flywheel 25 25 locktite 5
Bolt, converter to flywheel Turbo 400 35 35 dry none
Bolt, converter to flywheel Turbo 350 30 30 dry none
Bolt, flywheel housing to block 40 40 dry 20
Clutch Fork Ball Stud 40 40 dry none
Bolt, Trans to Bell Housing 55 55 dry none
Lock Nut, Clutch Fork Rod Adjustment 10 10 dry none
Countershaft Stud Assembly to Cylinder Block 70 70 dry none
Nut, Countershaft Stud to Side Rail 21 21 dry none
Nut, connecting rod bolt, except 455SD 30 43 oil 10
Nut, connecting rod bolt, 455SD N/A 63 oil 15
Nut, rocker arm to stud (3/8") 20 20 oil none
Stud, screw in rocker arm 55 55 dry none
Nut, timing chain cover 15 15 dry 7
Bolt, timing chain cover to pan 12 12 dry -
Bolt - Fan and Pulley to water pump 20 20 dry 10
Spark plug to head (gasket type) N/A 25 dry none
Spark plug to head (taper seat) 15 15 dry none
Plug, oil drain pan 22 22 oil none

* Bolts 1 and 2 (on Torque pattern below) final torque to 100 ft/lb for 350-455; 90 for 301
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These specs are for stock-type bolts with light engine oil applied to the threads and the underside of the bolt head. Other lubes, moly, and aftermarket bolts will have different torque specs.[/color]



Rod bearings 0.002 - 0.025" , side clearance 0.010 - 0.020"

Main bearings 0.002 - 0.003" for most engines ( 0.020-0.025 bearing clearance on small blocks, .025-.027 bearing clearance is about ideal, on big blocks ), 0.005 - 0.007 crankshaft end play

Piston to head clearance 0.038 MINIMUM including gasket (.038-.042 quench is what you want with steel rods)(steel rods), 0.060" MINIMUM quench aluminum rods

Valve to piston clearance MINIMUM 0.100" exhaust , 0.080" intake NO VALVE FLOAT
Recommended: 0.080 intake, 0.100 Exhaust (steel rods) 0.100 intake, 0.120 Exhaust aluminum rods


http://www.wallaceracing.com/torque-engine-specs.html
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VERIFY THE EDGE OF THE MAIN CAP BEARINGS IS NOT BINDING ON THE JOURNAL SIDE BEVEL RADIAS (BLUE /GREEN AREAS)
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VERIFY THE MAIN CAPS FACE THE CORRECT DIRECTION AND ARE IN THE CORRECT LOCATION, SEATED CORRECTLY AND TORQUED IN STAGES TO CORRECT TORQUE, BEARING TABS IN CORRECT PLACE
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http://paceperformance.com/index.asp?Pa ... tom&ID=658

Small Chevy
Fastener Type Torque Spec
7/16 in. outer main cap bolt 65 ft.-lbs.
7/16 in. inner main cap bolt 70 ft.-lbs.
3/8 in. outer main cap bolt 40 ft.-lbs.
11/32 in. connecting rod bolt 38-44 ft.-lbs.
3/8 in. connecting rod bolt 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts 65 ft.-lbs.
Screw-in rocker arm studs 50 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts (cast iron heads) 30 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 60-70 ft.-lbs.
Cam sprocket bolts 18-20 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 60 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 65 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Bellhousing bolts 25 ft.-lbs.
Exhaust manifold bolts 25 ft.-lbs.
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BIG CHEVY 396-572
http://hotrodshack.com/torque_settings.htm
Fastener Type Torque Specs
Main cap bolt, 396-427 2-bolt 95 ft.-lbs.
Main cap bolt, 396-454 4-bolt (inner/outer) 110 ft.-lbs.
3/8 in. connecting rod bolt 50 ft.-lbs.
7/16 in. connecting rod bolt 67-73 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts, long 75 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts, short 65-68 ft.-lbs.
Screw-in rocker arm studs 50 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts (cast iron head) 25 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 65 ft.-lbs.
Cam sprocket bolts 20 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 85 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 60 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Bellhousing bolts 25 ft.-lbs.
Exhaust manifold bolts 20 ft.-lbs.





TPI Torque Specifications

Below are the torque specifications as designated by GM for Tuned Port Injection intakes. Please note that some specifications are in lb. ft., and some are in lb. in.

Manifold to Runner Bolts 25 lb. ft.
Runner to Manifold Bolts 25 lb. ft.
Fuel Rail Attaching Bolts 15 lb. ft.
Throttle Body Attaching Bolts 18 lb. ft.
Throttle Position Sensor 18 lb. in.
Idle Air Control Valve 13 lb. ft.
Throttle Body Coolant Plate 27 lb. in.
Throttle Body Cover Plate 30 lb. in.
Power Brake Vacuum Fitting 108 lb. in.
Fuel Line Nuts 20 lb. ft.
Fuel Tube Bracket Bolt 25 lb. ft.
Fuel Pressure Connection 115 lb. in.
Pressure Regulator Base to Rail 44 lb. in.
Pressure Regulator Bracket 44 lb. in.
Outlet Tube to R/H Rail Retainer 44 lb. in.



use the links to calculators and refer back to them when needed

http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

http://www.bgsoflex.com/auto.html

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=342&p=418&hilit=+wrench#p418

http://www.frontiernet.net/~tmeyer/torque.html

http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/torquespecs.htm

http://www.rapidomarine.com/default.asp ... chevy.aspx

http://www.nationaltbucketalliance.com/ ... torque.asp

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http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=50&p=1253&hilit=+cement#p1253

http://vettaid.com/default.aspx?cid=RECSOtkYNdo=

http://www.hotrodshack.com/torque_settings.htm

http://boxwrench.net/specs/chevy_sb.htm

http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles ... index.html

http://www.boxwrench.net/specs/chevy_bb.htm

http://www.boxwrench.net/specs_index.htm

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=111

viewtopic.php?f=59&t=1390

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1027

http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticl ... index.html

http://corvettefever.automotive.com/797 ... index.html

http://www.davidfarmerstuff.com/

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/

http://www.boxwrench.net/specs_index.htm

one very good CD to get if your a beginner to engine assembly

http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html

theres a good deal of info in the sub links of this thread above and below

check with the bearing manufacturer and look in your shop manual, first BUT THESE specs WILL BE CLOSE OR EXACT in most SBC applications

Piston-to-wall clearance: 0.005 inch
Main bearing clearance: 0.023-0.027 inch
Rod bearing clearance: 0.025-0.027 inch
Rod side clearance: 0.016-0.020 inch
Rod side-to-piston clearance: 0.125 inch
Ring end gap: 0.022/0.020/0.032 inch
Piston-to-head clearance: 0.041 inch
ring end gap, .004 PER inch of bore diam, IE 4" bore .016 end gap
HYPER EUTECTIC pistons

http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/c ... ce_basics/
circletrack wrote:Stock Bearing Clearances
Adjusting the clearance is easy, but probably a bit more expensive than most of us would prefer. Most quality bearing manufacturers make three versions for all the popular styles. First, there’s the standard bearing. This is where you start. If you find you need more clearance, you can purchase an undersized bearing. This means the bearing shell is thinner, which creates 0.001 more clearance than a standard bearing. An oversized bearing is the opposite. It’s thicker and takes away 0.001 of clearance.

One one-thousandth of an inch is a big jump, but you can actually make adjustments in 0.0005 increments—that’s one-half of one thousandths of an inch. To do this you mix half the shell of a one-over or one-under bearing with half the shell from the standard bearing. This means you may have to purchase a couple sets of bearings to get everything just right in your race engine, but sometimes that’s the price you have to pay. Just remember when mixing shells to always keep the sizes in the same alignment. In other words, if you’re using one-unders with standards for your main bearings, put all the one-unders in the cap with the standards in the block side of the housing bore, or vice versa. So with that said, let’s get on with it.
The general rule of thumb for bearing clearances is 0.0010 inch for every 1 inch of journal diameter. That's true for mains and rods, and applies to almost all engines. For the small-block's 2-inch rod journals, that means 0.002 inch of clearance between the rod journal and bearing, by the rule of thumb. The GM-specified tolerances are 0.002 to 0.0025 inch, which lines up well with the rule. Side clearances come in at 0.010 to 0.020 inch, as specified by GM. The clearance rule applies to most engines, but it's generally best to avoid going below 0.0020 inch on any bearing, regardless of the journal diameter.


http://kb-silvolite.com/article.php?action=read&A_id=35

http://kb-silvolite.com/article.php?action=read&A_id=56

http://kb-silvolite.com/article.php?action=read&A_id=54

TPI Torque Specifications

Below are the torque specifications as designated by GM for Tuned Port Injection intakes. Please note that some specifications are in lb. ft., and some are in lb. in.

Manifold to Runner Bolts 25 lb. ft.
Runner to Manifold Bolts 25 lb. ft.
Fuel Rail Attaching Bolts 15 lb. ft.
Throttle Body Attaching Bolts 18 lb. ft.
Throttle Position Sensor 18 lb. in.
Idle Air Control Valve 13 lb. ft.
Throttle Body Coolant Plate 27 lb. in.
Throttle Body Cover Plate 30 lb. in.
Power Brake Vacuum Fitting 108 lb. in.
Fuel Line Nuts 20 lb. ft.
Fuel Tube Bracket Bolt 25 lb. ft.
Fuel Pressure Connection 115 lb. in.
Pressure Regulator Base to Rail 44 lb. in.
Pressure Regulator Bracket 44 lb. in.
Outlet Tube to R/H Rail Retainer 44 lb. in.
MOPAR
please note that some specifications are in inch-pounds rather than foot-pounds. Read the charts carefully to prevent broken bolts due to excessive torquing.

HEMI
426
Fastener Type Torque Spec
Main cap bolts 100 ft.-lbs.
Main cap tie bolts 45 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts (7/16 in.) 75 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts (iron head) 70-75 ft.-lbs.*
Cylinder head bolts (aluminum head) 65-70 ft.-lbs.*
Camshaft cap screw (Street Hemi) 40 ft.-lbs.
Camshaft cap screw(Race Hemi) 75 ft.-lbs.
Rocker shaft bracket bolts 30 ft.-lbs. max
Harmonic damper bolt 135 ft.-lbs.
Flexplate bolts 70 ft.-lbs.
Torque converter to flexplate bolts 65 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel cap screws 70 ft.-lbs.
Clutch cover to flywheel bolts 30 ft.-lbs.

* follow factory torque sequence


BIG CHRYSLER
383, 400, 440 B/RB Engines
Fastener Type Torque Specs
Main cap bolts 85 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts (plain) 45 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts (heavy duty) 50-55 ft.-lbs.
Crankshaft rear bearing seal retainer bolts 30 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts 70 ft.-lbs.*
Rocker shaft bracket bolts 25 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts 40 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump cover bolt 10 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump attaching bolt 35 ft.-lbs.
Oil pan bolts 15 ft.-lbs.
Cam locking bolt 35 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 135 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 55 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel housing to engine block bolts 50 ft.-lbs.
Flexplate to torque converter bolts 270 in.-lbs.
Water pump bolts

30 ft.-lbs.
Fuel pump bolt

30 ft.-lbs.
Starter mounting bolts

50 ft.-lbs.
Exhaust manifold nuts

30 ft.-lbs.

* follow factory torque sequence


SMALL CHRYSLER

273, 318, 340, 360 A Engine
Fastener Type Torque Spec
Main cap bolts

85 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts (plain)

45 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts, 273-318

85 ft.-lbs.*
Cylinder head bolts, 340-360

95 ft.-lbs.*
Rocker shaft bracket bolts

17 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts

35 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump cover bolt

95 in.-lbs.
Oil pump attaching bolt

35 ft.-lbs.
Oil pan bolts

15 ft.-lbs.
Cam locking bolt

35 ft.-lbs.
Cam thrust plate bolts

210 in.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt

135 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts

55 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel housing to engine block bolts

50 ft.-lbs.
Flexplate to torque converter bolts

270 in.-lbs.
Clutch housing bolts

30 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts

30 ft.-lbs.
Water pump bolts

30 ft.-lbs.

* Follow factory torque sequence

FORD
These specs are for stock-type bolts with light engine oil applied to the threads and the underside of the bolt head. Moly and other lubes offer reduced friction and increased bolt tension, which will affect the torque figure. If you use aftermarket performance bolts like ARP's, you should follow the recommended torque specifications.

260, 289, 302
Fastener Type Torque Spec
Main cap bolts 60-70 ft.-lbs.
Outer main cap bolts, 35-40 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts 19-24 ft.-lbs. (40-45 ft.-lbs. for 289 HP Boss 302)
Cylinder head bolts 65-72 ft.-lbs.
Rocker arms 17-23 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts 23-25 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 23-28 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cam thrust plate bolts 8-10 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolts 70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts 12-15 ft.-lbs.

351W
Fastener Type Torque Specs
Main cap bolts 95-105 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts 90-100 ft.-lbs.
Rocker arms 17-23 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts 23-25 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 23-28 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cam thrust plate bolts 8-10 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts 12-15 ft.-lbs.

351C, 351M
Fastener Type Torque Spec
Main cap bolts

95-105 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts

40-45 ft.-lbs. (45-50 ft.-lbs. for Boss 351C)
Cylinder head bolts
(follow factory torque sequence)

105 ft.-lbs. (125 ft.-lbs. for Boss 351C)
Rocker arms (non-adjustable)

18-22 ft.-lbs.
5/16 in. intake manifold bolts

21-25 ft.-lbs.
3/8 in. intake manifold bolts

28-33 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt

25 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts

40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cam thrust plate bolts

9-12 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt

70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts

75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts

35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts

12-18 ft.-lbs.

429-460
Fastener Type Torque Spec
Maincap bolts

95-105 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts

40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts

140 ft.-lbs.
Rocker arms (non-adjustable)

18-22 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts

25-30 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt

25 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts

40-45 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt

70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts

75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts

35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts

12-18 ft.-lbs.

360, 390, 406, 427, 428 FE
Fastener Type Torque Spec
Main cap bolts

95-105 ft.-lbs.
Crossbolts for 406 and 427

40 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts

40-45 ft.-lbs. (53-58 ft.-lbs. for 406 and 427)
Cylinder head bolts

80-90 ft.-lbs. (100-110 ft.-lbs. for 1963-67 427)
Rocker arm shaft bolts

40-45 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts

32-35 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt

12-15 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts

40-45 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt

70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts

75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts

35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts

12-15 ft.-lbs.

BTW ROD BOLT STRETCH USUALLY FALLS IN THE .0055 RANGE but VERIFY, THE SPECS YOUR APPLICATION REQUIRES

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viewtopic.php?f=50&t=989&p=4731&hilit=+stretch+gauge#p4731

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... P2078_____ ($360)

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=247&p=7191&hilit=torque+wrench#p7191

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=342&p=418&hilit=+torque+wrench#p418
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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Posts: 14105
Joined: September 14th, 2008, 1:40 pm
Location: florida

auto related calculator links

Postby grumpyvette » February 24th, 2009, 4:38 pm

http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

http://www.idavette.net/tech/ratioc.htm

http://www.venommotorsports.com/library ... ulator.asp

http://www.camaroz28.com/calcs/index.shtml

http://www.avenger-valkyrie.org/techinf ... lators.htm

heres some calculators you might use

http://www.angelfire.com/fl/procrastination/motor.html

DROPPING THE DISTRIBUTOR BACK IN
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=54


http://www.thirdgen.org/calculations

http://www.wallaceracing.com/lpv.php

http://www.velocity-of-sound.com/veloci ... lator3.htm

http://www.bgsoflex.com/auto.html

http://www.aacncclub.com/crucemotor/com ... ratio.html

http://www.bgsoflex.com/holley.html

http://www.coastdriveline.com/htmlfolde ... ator2.html

http://www.rickwrench.com/bunchofcalculators.html

http://www.ford-trucks.com/calculators/index.php

http://hotrodworks.net/hotrodmath/hotrodmath.html

http://kb-silvolite.com/calc.php

http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/lovellgascalc.html

http://www.dsm.org/tools/calchp.htm

http://www.wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_hp_dp.htm

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calccr.htm

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/index.html#jcalc

http://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_da.htm

http://www.wallaceracing.com/throttle-b ... ameter.php

http://www.diamondracing.net/cocalc.htm

http://www.crower.com/misc/valve_timing_chart.html

http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm

http://www.ondoperformance.com/page2.html

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/camshaft.html

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html

http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan...ngth/pipe.html

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner ... index.html

http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx

gear spread sheet that comes in handy THANKS TO 1FATGMC

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner ... index.html

HERES OTHER INFO LINKS

http://www.wallaceracing.com/reargear.htm

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcmph.htm

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrpm.htm

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrgr.htm

http://paceperformance.com/index.asp?Pa ... tom&ID=658

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/spe ... ngine.html

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/722.cfm

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/transc.htm#tabtop

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/transc.htm#Auto

http://www.pipeflowcalculations.com/airflow/index.htm

http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_pr...torquemyth.htm

http://tom.marshall.tripod.com/exhaust.html

http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan...a/effarea.html

http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan...ngth/pipe.html

http://www.pontiacracing.net/js_header_length1.htm

http://www.wallaceracing.com/runnertorquecalc.php

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question172.htm

http://jameshalderman.com/data/misc.htm

http://www.auto-ware.com/software/eap/eap.htm

a few resources to allow you to calculate the ideal results
http://www.tmossporting.com/tabid/1805/Default.aspx

heres some differant calculators

http://www.kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp2

http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php

http://www.smokemup.com/auto_math/compression_ratio.php

http://not2fast.wryday.com/turbo/com...pressure.shtml
average the results
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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Site Admin
 
Posts: 14105
Joined: September 14th, 2008, 1:40 pm
Location: florida

Re: torque specs , calculator links etc.

Postby grumpyvette » June 3rd, 2009, 7:34 am

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=50&p=1253&hilit=+cement#p1253

theres similar info for many common engines in the links

http://www.frontiernet.net/~tmeyer/torque.html

Big Chevy

Fastener Type Torque Specs

Main cap bolt, 396-427 2-bolt 95 ft.-lbs.
Main cap bolt, 396-454 4-bolt (inner/outer) 110 ft.-lbs.
3/8 in. connecting rod bolt 50 ft.-lbs.
7/16 in. connecting rod bolt 67-73 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts, long 75 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts, short 65-68 ft.-lbs.
Screw-in rocker arm studs 50 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts (cast iron head) 25 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 65 ft.-lbs.
Cam sprocket bolts 20 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 85 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/Flexplate bolts 60 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Bell housing bolts 25 ft.-lbs.
Exhaust manifold bolts 20 ft.-lbs.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


KNOWING WHAT YOUR DOING IS IMPORTANT, TO GETTING GOOD RESULTS!
no one knows everything about all models and years so it helps to have the correct procedures and info in a handy referace source,now you can get by with a HAYNES or CHILTONS manual, or something similar, but for detailed info, OWNING the CHEVY SHOP MANUAL FOR YOUR SPECIFIC CAR IS ALMOST MANDATORY!
I get asked frequently, "how did you know how to do that?"
well, EXPERIANCE plays a big roll, working on similar cars and engines helps, and the INTERNET is a good resource... but theres ALWAYS a big need for DETAILED REFERANCE MATERIAL, SPECIFICALLY MATCHING YOUR PARTICULAR CAR and if you have not yet invested in a SHOP MANUAL for the year make and model of you pride and joy muscle car your either not serious about your hobby, or most likely NOT A SERIOUS HOT RODDER! I constantly see guys SCREWING up installations, or adjustments,if you don,t know exactly what your doing, you need to either let the dealer do it and PRAY his mechanics are experianced and can read, OR..if your like ME, you would rather do it yourself and KNOW its been done correctly...
if your not aware, heres where to order them....

1-800-782-4356

http://helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?r=

your average shop manual may cost $100-$150 ONCE! but youll easily save far more than that in reduced time and screw ups in under a years time or in many cases on one job vs having the dealer do the work!

just some info for future builds
Image
aluminum heads ALWAYS require head bolt washers with oil or ultra lube to get consistent clamp values and the flat surface faces the head the inner bevel faces the bolt head
on head STUDS the same things required on aluminum heads to get even clamp loads and no galling

unlike a OEM block DARTS blocks have blind threaded head bolt holes that don,t enter the water jacket so you need to be sure the threads are clean, theres no crud in the threaded holes and you use minimal thread sealant on the lower threads because theres little chance off coolant leaking up thru the threads like with an OEM block where head bolts enter the coolant passages

Image
this should be used only in head bolt holes that don,t enter water jackets in the block on the lower threads

Image
Image
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=50&p=12558&hilit=threads+lube+torque#p12558

http://arp-bolts.com/pages/technical_installation.shtml

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=50&p=59&hilit=studs+heads+bolts+lube#p59
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: torque specs , calculator links etc.

Postby grumpyvette » June 18th, 2009, 6:09 pm

IF your going to use ARP main cap studs THE TORQUE SETTINGS ARE DIFFERENT than the original BOLTS, the STUDS ARE STRONGER, BUT,you might also consider that main studs generally install after cleaning the threads in the block with a tap,blowing them dry with high pressure air, oiling the studs course threads with the thread sealant and fine threads end with the ARP thread lube, when you screw them into the block the full thread depth,by hand, then get backed out one turn, the main caps installed and the nuts torqued in stages to seat and hold the main caps, now LOOK at those STUDS the end in the block threads is SAE COURSE thread, the end your torquing the nut on is SAE FINE THREAD with a much different PITCH that requires less tq to give the same clamp loads
if you run as tap thru the block holes and blow them out with a high pressure air jet and use a wire brush and solvent to clean the bolt threads then dip them in the correct sealant you should have no problems re-using those ARP or STOCK head bolts on the first gen SBC or BBC engines

Image
Image
Image

Image
In any application where your tightening a nut on a stud , such as on the outer threaded ends of main cap studs or head bolt studs, youll want to use a lube on the threads that gives consistent torque reading from your torque wrench indicating the correct bolt or stud TENSION, oil and MOLY assembly lube and various thread sealants do not always do that,the end in the blocks course threads have thread sealant, the fine threads on the outer end require a totally different lubricant
Image

Image
http://www.arp-bolts.com/catalog/Catalog.html
Image
Why do they get backed out by one turn? I'm trying to think of the physics behind it, but I can't think of any good reason. What is the physics answer, Grumpy?

the threads must bear evenly and align correctly with the studs center line, for the stud to apply max loads over the total threaded surface ,the threaded section must be under tension alone and engage the total threaded surface in the block, if the stud is torqued into place, you've preloaded the threads bearing the load and they are partly under compressive loads ,your basically jacking the bottom of the threaded hole away from the threaded section, and applying THOUSANDS of lbs of extra stress to the blocks web area if you torque the threads to the same 100 ft lbs the original bolts were tightened to, the threads in the block will now have added stress once the full tension loads on the studs and main caps is applied by torquing the nuts on the studs ,theres added stress on the block, if the studs have bottomed out and are pushing on the bottom of the threaded hole making the block web area more likely to crack or the crank saddles to distort.
keep in mind FACTORY BOLTS are made slightly shorter to PREVENT the bolt tip bottoming out in the hole, but bolts cause wear on the threads because they are tightened while the bolts still advancing deeper into the threaded block, studs cause far less wear because they fully engage the threads bearing the loads before the tensile load is applied

heres what ARP says
"STUDS vs. BOLTS

ARP recommends the use of main studs over bolts whenever possible for several key reasons. First is the ability to obtain more accurate torque readings because studs don’t “twist” into the block. All clamping forces are on one axis. By the same token, there is less force exerted on the block threads, which contributes to improved block life (very critical on aluminum blocks). Finally, there are factors of easier engine assembly and proper alignment of caps every time"

ARP's instructions (for head studs)state that you should thread the studs into the block until they're hand-tight, but with the head on the block, this is difficult. Fortunately, ARP was thoughtful enough to incorporate a fitting for an Allen wrench into the head of each stud. So, using an Allen wrench, I threaded the studs into the head until I could no longer turn the wrench with two fingers. This method seems to have worked nicely

1. Clean and chase appropriate threads in
block to ensure proper thread engagement
and accurate torque readings.
2. All hardware (and caps) should be
cleaned and inspected prior to installation,
looking for any shipping damage or defects.
3. Screw studs into block, finger tight
ONLY. For permanent installation, apply
Loc-tite (or similar adhesive) sparingly
to threads. Be sure and install the caps
promptly before the cement sets to prevent
misalignment of studs in block.
1. Clean and chase appropriate threads in
block to ensure proper thread engagement
and accurate torque readings.
2. All hardware (and caps) should be
cleaned and inspected prior to installation,
looking for any shipping damage or defects.
There are a number of important considerations
when installing ARP main studs.
3. Screw studs into block, finger tight
ONLY. For permanent installation, apply
Loc-tite (or similar adhesive) sparingly
to threads. Be sure and install the caps
promptly before the cement sets to prevent
misalignment of studs in block.

First and foremost is making sure the
block and studs are as clean as possible.
Foreign matter and debris can easily affect
the quality of thread engagement and
cause erroneous torque readings. Do not
re-cut threads in the block – use the special
“chaser” taps as listed on page 87 of this catalog.
This will preserve the integrity of the
threads and provide better engagement.
Calibrate your torque wrench – even new
wrenches have been known to be off by as
much as 10 foot pounds! Use consistent
tightening techniques.
4. Install main caps, checking for binding
and misalignment. Lubricate threads, nuts
and washers with oil or ARP moly assembly
lubricant before installation. Note that torque
specs will vary by lubricant. Moly lube is
most consistent. Have block align honed.
5. Using the instructions provided with
the studs, tighten the nuts to proper
torque values three times. NOTE: If using
Loc-Tite or similar cement, proper preload
must be achieved prior to it setting up.




http://www.arp-bolts.com/FAQ/FAQ.html

I usually use this sealant (sparingly)on the course ends of main cap studs that screw in hand tight, and ESPECIALLY on head studs that enter water jackets



http://www.permatex.com/products/Automo ... ealant.htm

Image



keep in mind the course thread section is not being screwed in or the threads moved as the nut on the fine thread upper end is torqued to spec. and that thread requires the ARP thread lubricant to get the correct stretch and that stud needs to be cycled up to full torque then released and re torqued,a minimum of three times to get the stretch/tq correct

read thru these
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=989&p=4731#p4731


http://www.aptfast.com/ARP_Additional_S ... _specs.htm

http://www.futek.com/boltcalc.aspx

http://www.imperialinc.com/pdf/A_Fasten ... Charts.pdf

http://www.zerofast.com/torque.htm
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: torque specs , calculator links etc.

Postby grumpyvette » October 11th, 2009, 5:39 pm

lets assume your looking for a 3/8" drive inch lb torque wrench to tighten little things like intake bolts, logic should tell you that a decent quality tool will not be dirt cheap, and that you don,t need the best available tool for that use so you start pricing your options
the whole OBJECT of you using a torque wrench is to allow you to maintain consistent TORQUE values, do you really think the HF torque wrench will be consistent, when most other sources what 4-5 times as much, think it thru, obviously you don,t need a lab quality tool, but the cheapest option is not likely to be a rational choice either.

Image
harbor freight ($33)
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth ... h-807.html

home depot ($74)
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1 ... ogId=10053

sears($69)
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... que+wrench

tool source ($57)
http://www.toolsource.com/torque-wrench ... 5_778.html


GOOD QUALITY ($225)
http://www.toolsource.com/dial-dual-sca ... 94631.html


http://www.webbikeworld.com/r3/torque-wrench/
read this link
http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles ... index.html

WATCH THIS VIDEO
NEVER USE A TORQUE WRENCH LIKE A BREAKER BAR TO LOOSEN BOLTS as it TENDS TO QUICKLY DESTROY ITS ACCURACY & consistency

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgwwOJ0B ... r_embedded

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgwwOJ0B ... r_embedded
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: torque specs , calculator links etc.

Postby grumpyvette » June 6th, 2010, 9:27 am

IF your just getting into building engines youll need a few basic tools like a torque wrench and a decent piston ring compressor, a digital caliper,some plasti-gauge and modeling clay, etc.

ID strongly suggest
DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR
buy these books, FIRST it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. youll save thousands of dollars and thousands of hours once youve got a good basic understanding of what your trying to do!
use the search feature on this site and put in key words like clearance, bearings, rings,honing,steel,lubricant, etc. and read the linked info


http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html

how to assemble an engine basics on video


these books


HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD
http://www.amazon.com/Build-Performance ... amp;sr=1-1

JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines

http://www.amazon.com/John-Lingenfelter ... amp;sr=1-1


SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS

http://www.amazon.com/Smokey-Yunicks-Po ... amp;sr=1-1



youll need a basic cost effective engine stand, you can resell later if you want too, just DON,T EVEN THINK about the cheap three leg designs
like this
Image

get something like this
Image
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34924

if your building a big block Chevy start by researching the subject with these books

http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Big-Block ... 345&sr=1-4

http://www.amazon.com/How-Build-Perform ... 345&sr=1-3

http://www.amazon.com/Rebuilding-Gen-Bi ... 345&sr=1-7

http://www.amazon.com/How-Hotrod-Big-Bl ... 345&sr=1-5

http://www.amazon.com/Big-Block-Chevy-E ... 345&sr=1-2
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

User avatar
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Posts: 14105
Joined: September 14th, 2008, 1:40 pm
Location: florida

Re: torque specs , calculator links etc.

Postby grumpyvette » June 6th, 2010, 9:33 am

IF your just getting into building engines youll need a few basic tools like a torque wrench and a decent piston ring compressor, a digital caliper,some plasti-gauge and modeling clay, etc.

ID strongly suggest
DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR
buy these books, FIRST it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. youll save thousands of dollars and thousands of hours once youve got a good basic understanding of what your trying to do!
use the search feature on this site and put in key words like clearance, bearings, rings,honing,steel,lubricant, sealant,etc. and read the linked info


http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html

how to assemble an engine basics on video


these books


HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD
http://www.amazon.com/Build-Performance ... amp;sr=1-1

JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines

http://www.amazon.com/John-Lingenfelter ... amp;sr=1-1


SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS

http://www.amazon.com/Smokey-Yunicks-Po ... amp;sr=1-1



youll need a basic cost effective engine stand, you can resell later if you want too, just DON,T EVEN THINK about the cheap three leg designs
like this
Image

get something like this
Image
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34924


heres a few basic threads to get you started

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=38

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=324

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=181

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=52

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=247

viewtopic.php?f=70&t=967

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=90
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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Posts: 14105
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Location: florida

Re: torque specs , calculator links etc.

Postby grumpyvette » August 26th, 2013, 10:44 am

Service Information
2006 Chevrolet Corvette | Corvette (VIN Y) Service Manual | Engine | Engine Mechanical - 6.0L | Specifications | Document ID: 1409810
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Fastener Tightening Specifications
Application
Specification

Metric
English

Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Bolt
12 N·m
106 lb in

CMP Sensor Wire Harness Bolt
12 N·m
106 lb in

Camshaft Retainer Bolts - Hex Head Bolts
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Camshaft Retainer Bolts - TORX® Head Bolts
15 N·m
11 lb ft

Camshaft Sprocket Bolts
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Clutch Pressure Plate Bolts
70 N·m
52 lb ft

Connecting Rod Bolts - First Pass
20 N·m
15 lb ft

Connecting Rod Bolts - Final Pass
85 degrees

Coolant Air Bleed Pipe and Cover Bolts
12 N·m
106 lb in

Coolant Temperature Sensor
20 N·m
15 lb ft

Crankshaft Balancer Bolt - Installation Pass to Ensure the Balancer is Completely Installed
330 N·m
240 lb ft

Crankshaft Balancer Bolt - First Pass - Install a NEW Bolt After the Installation Pass and Tighten as Described in the First and Final Passes
50 N·m
37 lb ft

Crankshaft Balancer Bolt - Final Pass
140 degrees

Crankshaft Bearing Cap M10 Bolts - First Pass in Sequence
20 N·m
15 lb ft

Crankshaft Bearing Cap M10 Bolts - Final Pass in Sequence
80 degrees

Crankshaft Bearing Cap M10 Studs - First Pass in Sequence
20 N·m
15 lb ft

Crankshaft Bearing Cap M10 Studs - Final Pass in Sequence
51 degrees

Crankshaft Bearing Cap M8 Bolts
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Crankshaft Oil Deflector Nuts
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Bolt
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Housing Bolts
30 N·m
22 lb ft

Cylinder Head M11 Bolts - First Pass in Sequence
30 N·m
22 lb ft

Cylinder Head M11 Bolts - Second Pass in Sequence
90 degrees

Cylinder Head M11 Bolts - Final Pass in Sequence
70 degrees

Cylinder Head M8 Bolts - in Sequence
30 N·m
22 lb ft

Cylinder Head Coolant Plug
20 N·m
15 lb ft

Engine Block Coolant Drain Hole Plug
60 N·m
44 lb ft

Engine Block Coolant Heater
40 N·m
30 lb ft

Engine Block Oil Gallery Plug
60 N·m
44 lb ft

Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Solenoid Valve Bolt
50 N·m
37 lb ft

Exhaust Manifold Bolts - First Pass
15 N·m
11 lb ft

Exhaust Manifold Bolts - Final Pass
20 N·m
15 lb ft

Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield Bolts
9 N·m
80 lb in

Exhaust Manifold Studs
20 N·m
15 lb ft

Flywheel Bolts - First Pass
20 N·m
15 lb ft

Flywheel Bolts - Second Pass
50 N·m
37 lb ft

Flywheel Bolts - Final Pass
100 N·m
74 lb ft

Front Cover Bolts
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Fuel Injection Fuel Rail Bolts
10 N·m
89 lb in

Ignition Coil Bracket-to-Valve Rocker Arm Cover Stud
12 N·m
106 lb in

Ignition Coil-to-Bracket Bolts
10 N·m
89 lb in

Intake Manifold Bolts - First Pass in Sequence
5 N·m
44 lb in

Intake Manifold Bolts - Final Pass in Sequence
10 N·m
89 lb in

J 41798 M8 Bolt
25 N·m
18 lb ft

J 41798 M10 Bolts
50 N·m
37 lb ft

Knock Sensor Bolts
20 N·m
15 lb ft

Motor Mount Bracket Bolts
50 N·m
37 lb ft

Oil Cooler Bolts
12 N·m
106 lb in

Oil Filter
30 N·m
22 lb ft

Oil Filter Fitting
55 N·m
40 lb ft

Oil Level Indicator Tube Bolt
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Oil Level Sensor
20 N·m
15 lb ft

Oil Pan Closeout Cover Bolt - Left Side
9 N·m
80 lb in

Oil Pan Closeout Cover Bolt - Right Side
9 N·m
80 lb in

Oil Pan Cover Bolts
12 N·m
106 lb in

Oil Pan Drain Plug
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Oil Pan M6 Bolts - Oil Pan-to-Rear Oil Seal Housing
12 N·m
106 lb in

Oil Pan M8 Bolts - Oil Pan-to-Engine Block and Oil Pan-to-Front Cover
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Oil Pressure Sensor
35 N·m
26 lb ft

Oil Pump Cover Bolts
12 N·m
106 lb in

Oil Pump Relief Valve Plug
12 N·m
106 lb in

Oil Pump Screen Nuts
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Oil Pump Screen-to-Oil Pump Bolt
12 N·m
106 lb in

Oil Pump-to-Engine Block Bolts
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Spark Plugs
15 N·m
11 lb ft

Throttle Body Bolts
10 N·m
89 lb in

Timing Chain Dampener Bolts
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Valley Cover Bolts
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Valve Lifter Guide Bolts
10 N·m
89 lb in

Valve Rocker Arm Bolts
30 N·m
22 lb ft

Valve Rocker Arm Cover Bolts
12 N·m
106 lb in

Water Inlet Housing Bolts
15 N·m
11 lb ft

Water Pump Bolts - First Pass
15 N·m
11 lb ft

Water Pump Bolts - Final Pass
30 N·m
22 lb ft

© 2009 General Motors. All rights reserved.
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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Posts: 14105
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Re: torque specs , calculator links etc.

Postby grumpyvette » August 26th, 2013, 10:50 am

LT1 / LT4 Engine Specs

http://www.eaglerod.com/mosmodule/bolt_torque.html
Description:

Engine type:
Displacement:
Bore:
Stroke:
Compression ratio:
Firing order:
Spark Plug type:
Spark Plug gap:

Fastener Description:

Camshaft retainer bolt:
Camshaft sprocket bolt:
Connecting rod nut (1st pass):
Connecting rod nut (final pass):
Crankshaft torsional damper to hub bolts:
Crankshaft hib bolt:
Crankshaft main bearing cap bolts:
Crankshaft rear oil seal housing nut and bolt:
Crankshaft rear oil seal housing stud:
Cylinder head bolts (first pass):
Cylinder head long bolts (final pass):
Cylinder head medium bolts (final pass):
Cylinder head short bolts (final pass):
Engine block oil galley plug:
Engine front cover bolt:
Exhaust Manifold nut and bolts:
Engine flywheel/flexplate bolts:
Intake manifold bolts and nuts (first pass):
Intake manifold bolts and nuts (final pass):
Oil filter adapter bolt:
Oil filter:
Oil level indicator tube bolt:
Oil pan corner bolt/nut:
Oil pan deflector nut:
Oil pan drain plug:
Oil pump bolt to rear main bearing cap:
Oil pump cover bolts:
Oil pump driveshaft mounting bolt:
Spark plugs:
Engine block coolant drain plug:
Valve lifter guide retainer bolts:
Valve rocker arm ball stud:
Valve rocker arm center cover bolts:
Valve rocker arm nut (LT4 engines only):
Water pump bolts/studs:
Water pump driveshaft bearing retainer bolt:
Throttle body bolt:
Starter motor bolt:
Secondary air injection pump bracket bolt:
Secondary air injection pump fitting to exhaust manifold:
Oil temperature sensor:
Oil pressure sensor and switch:
Oil pressure gauge sensor:
Oil pressure fitting:
Distributor bolts:
Crankshaft position sensor bolt:
EGR solenoid valve bracket nut (LT1 engines only):
EGR opening cover nut (LT4 engines only):
EGR valve nut (LT1 engines only):
EGR valve pipe bolt and nut (LT1 engines only):
Engines coolant air bleed pipe bolt:
Engine oil level sensor:
Evaporate emission canister purge valve bracket bolt:
Fuel injection fuel rail bolt:
Generator bracket bolt:
Ignition coil studs:
Knock sensor bolt:
MAP sensor bolt:

Transmission Fastener Specs

Clutch actuator cylinder nut:
Clutch fork t-stud bolt:
Clutchmaster cylinder nut:
Clutch pressure palte cover (6 speed):
Clutch pressure palte cover (5 speed):
Flywheel bolt (6 speed):
Flywheel bolt (5 speed):
Flywheel housing cover bolt:
Flywheel housing bolt (6 speed):
Flywheel housing bolt (5 speed):
Transmission brace bolts:
Transmission brace nut:
Transmission bolt/screw:

GM Casting Numbers:

Engine Block:

ALL LT1 / LT4 blocks (same for 2 & 4 bolt blocks):
10125327
265 CID:
10168588

Clinder Heads:

LT1 350 Cast Iron 1992-93:
12554290
LT1 350 Cast Iron 1994-97:
10125320
LT1 350 Aluminum 1992-97:
10128374
LT4 350 Aluminum 1996 Corvette:
12363287
265 CID Cast Iron:
10208890

Crankshaft:

LT1 / LT4 cast cranks:
14088526
265 CID:
10168568

Camshaft:

1992-95 350 w/ Aluminum heads:
241
1994-96 350 w/ iron heads:
600 or 779
1996-97 350 w/ Aluminum heads:
705 or 242

Camsahft Reference:

1995-97 LT1 (Corvette/Camaro/Firebird)
12551705
.447" Intake lift - .459" exhaust lift
w/ 1.5" rockers, intake duration 203
exhaust duration 210 @ .050"
1996 LT4 production cam (Corvette)
12551142
.476" Intake lift - .480" exhaust lift
w/ 1.6" rockers, intake duration 203
exhaust duration 210 @ .050"

Water Pump:

All LT1 / Gen II:
10128327

Timing Front Cover:

Early 1992-93 (small distributor hole)
10128289
Second Version 1994-95 (large distributor hole)
10214196
Third version 1996-97 (crank postion sensor)
12550032


Specifiactions:

V8
350 CID (5.7L)
4.000"
3.480"
10.4:1/10.8:1
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
AC41-943
0.050"

Torque Spec:

106 in-lbs
18 ft-lbs
20 ft-lbs
55 degrees
63 ft-lbs
74 ft-lbs
77 ft-lbs
11 ft-lbs
35 in-lbs
22 ft-lbs
80 degrees
80 degrees
67 degrees
15 ft-lbs
106 in-lbs
30 ft-lbs
74 ft-lbs
71 in-lbs
35 ft-lbs
18 ft-lbs
15 ft-lbs
106 in-lbs
106 in-lbs
30 ft-lbs
15 ft-lbs
66 ft-lbs
80 in-lbs
13 ft-lbs
15 ft-lbs
15 ft-lbs
18 ft-lbs
50 ft-lbs
106 in-lbs
18 ft-lbs
33 ft-lbs
106 in-lbs
18 ft-lbs
35 ft-lbs
30 ft-lbs
41 ft-lbs
106 in-lbs
106 in-lbs
106 in-lbs
106 in-lbs
106 in-lbs
106 in-lbs
18-ft-lbs
18-ft-lbs
18-ft-lbs
18-ft-lbs
30 ft-lbs
26 ft-lbs
53 in-lbs
89 in-lbs
30 ft-lbs
30 ft-lbs
15 ft-lbs
53 in-lbs

Torque Specs

15 ft-lbs
18 ft-lbs
20 ft-lbs
22 ft-lbs
15 ft-llbs (plus 45 degrees)
61 ft-lbs
74 ft-lbs
75 in-lbs
55 ft-lbs
35 in-lbs
37 in-lbs
37 ft-lbs
26 in-lbs

GM Part Numbers

Cylinder Heads:

LT1 Design
10128374
LT4 Design
12363287

Cylinder Head Gaskets:

LT1 Iron Head (compressed thickness 0.028")
12553160
LT1 Aluminum Head (compressed thickness 0.050")
10168457
LT4 Aluminum Head (compressed thickness 0.043")
12551488

Cylinder Head Bolt Washers:

LT1 Aluminum Head Bolt Washers
14011040
LT4 Aluminum Head Bolt Washers
10051155

Intake Manifold Gaskets:

LT1 Style Intake
12524653
LT4 Style Intake
12367777

Timing Parts:

GM LT1/LT4 extreme duty timing chain kit
12370835
Cam sprocket
12555885
Crank sprocket
12555886
Cam gears
10128349 1992-95 350
10206039 1996-97 350

Distributors (Opti Spark)

1992-94
10457702
1995-97
01104032

Ignition Coil:

1992-93
01115315
1994-95
10477208
1996-97
10489421

Valve Covers:

Valve Cover Gaskets (center bolt)
10046089
Valve Covers (black plastic LT4 style)
12552321 LH
12552322 RH
Valve Cover Bolts - Chrome
12356818

Oil Pump:

Oil pump high volume
14044872
Oil pump shaft
3998287
Oil pump bolt
3892678
Oil pump shaft retainer sleeve
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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