http://www.amazon.com/Lingenfelter-Modi ... 82&sr=8-11"]Amazon.com: John Lingenfelter on Modifying Small-block Chevy Engines (0075478012381): John Lingenfelter: Books
http://www.amazon.com/Smokey-Yunicks-Po ... 809&sr=8-2"]Amazon.com: Smokey Yunick's Power Secrets (9780931472060): Smokey Yunick: Books
buy these book/video's its probably the best money value you can get, you might be amazed at what a couple hours research into the subject will do to help you build a much more durable engine, and actually reading thru links and sub-links and asking questions helps a great deal
viewtopic.php?f=44&t=3733&p=12992&hilit=+books+video#p12992
viewtopic.php?f=44&t=38
http://www.bracketmasters.com/small_blo ... 383_cu.htm
http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/1 ... education/
HERES A FEW GENERAL TIPS
http://www.powerperformancenews.com/fea ... ve-longer/
viewtopic.php?f=69&t=9530
milling stroker clearance on 350/383
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OkgZ-i7aLk#t=41
viewtopic.php?f=51&t=7697&p=26187#p26187
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/tech/ ... clearance/
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/cc ... ewall.html
http://www.small-block-chevy.com/assemblyspec.html
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=8310&p=28891#p28891
GOOD 6" CONNECTING RODS FOR A 383 SBC
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/sca-26000716
youll need a decent value in a less expensive yet stable engine stand
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200305217
all these threads add useful info on your parts selection
viewtopic.php?f=55&t=109
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=5078
http://www.maintenanceresources.com/ref ... alance.htm
http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/c ... rminology/
viewtopic.php?f=44&t=38&hilit=carb+spacer
viewtopic.php?f=56&t=495
viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1115
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=196
viewtopic.php?f=44&t=38&p=46#p46
viewtopic.php?f=44&t=366&p=448#p448
viewtopic.php?f=38&t=3900&p=10338#p10338
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=8310&p=28891#p28891
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=90
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=2798
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/probe-sportsbc04.html
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/probe-sportsbc04.html
viewtopic.php?f=69&t=2378&p=6279&hilit=hemi#p6279
http://www.technovelocity.com/chevyhack ... cation.htm
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=4974&p=15425&hilit=vacuum+gauge#p15425
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=4683
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=726&p=2302#p2302
viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2187&p=5890#p5890
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=1168
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=181
viewtopic.php?f=69&t=519
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=796
I know some of you guys would rather pluck your eye out with a red hot fork, rather than read links and sub links but for the few who want to learn...
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=2726
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=852
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=509
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=10705
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=4690
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=8685&p=30565#p30565
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=619
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=5478
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=10213
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=741&p=1048#p1048
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/cc ... index.html
here high lights, or cliff note version

place a single rod/piston assembly with well oiled bearings and use no rings installed on the piston,in the first cylinders bore , be sure the crank journal,has old bearings well greased in the rod your using to get the clearances and have the cam installed to check clearances, also, you don,t necessarily need to degree it in, correctly a dot-to-dot install on the cam will give you a good idea on clearance work. ,now, rotate the crank thru a couple full rotations so the piston slides freely in the oiled bore, while you look closely at the rod too block clearance and rod too cam lobe clearance, if the cam lobes are too close the edge of the rod bolt upper/edge ( no less than .080 thousands, is ideal) of the rod bolt or the rod itself needs to be filed/ground for clearance since you can,t grind the cam lobe, on the block the block gets clearances ground, you want about a .060 minimum clearance. a large paper clip can be used as a crude feeler gauge,
a 1/2" diam carbide cutting burr in a die grinder can do it in seconds,once that's done you move that piston & rod to the next cylinder and repeat 7 more times, etc. don,t forget to clean up afterward,with both a strong magnet, and a pressure washer and solvent or at least high pressure air, and DON,T forget the rod and piston has the exhaust/intake valve and rod bearing radius fit correctly in only one direction on that cylinder, so youll need two rods/pistons, a left and a right for the clearance work,
read
http://www.chevymania.com/tech/383.htm
http://www.hotrod.com/howto/69883_strok ... index.html

use a good 7-8 quart baffled oil pan

keep in mind the (H) style rods and the CAP SCREW designs generally have more clearance than the stock bolt/nut design rods, and theres are stroker rods designed for max clearance
AFTER
[i



when building a 383 stroker ,you need to check rod to cam and rod to block clearances, you should have not problem grinding .080 or so clearance on the lower bore wall edge with zero chance of getting into the water jacket passages or water jacket at the area of the yellow paint indicated in that picture, most people forget to check that area
obviously youll want to check all 8 cylinders and remove the cam and clean carefully before re-installing the cam.
Small Chevy
Fastener Type Torque Spec
7/16 in. outer main cap bolt 65 ft.-lbs.
7/16 in. inner main cap bolt 70 ft.-lbs.
3/8 in. outer main cap bolt 40 ft.-lbs.
11/32 in. connecting rod bolt 38-44 ft.-lbs.
3/8 in. connecting rod bolt 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts 65 ft.-lbs.
Screw-in rocker arm studs 50 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts (cast iron heads) 30 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 60-70 ft.-lbs.
Cam sprocket bolts 18-20 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 60 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/Flexplate bolts 65 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Bell housing bolts 25 ft.-lbs.
Exhaust manifold bolts 25 ft.-lbs.
http://www.precisionenginetech.com/tech ... ch-part-1/
http://www.precisionenginetech.com/tech ... ch-part-2/

Big Chevy
Fastener Type Torque Specs
Main cap bolt, 396-427 2-bolt 95 ft.-lbs.
Main cap bolt, 396-454 4-bolt (inner/outer) 110 ft.-lbs.
3/8 in. connecting rod bolt 50 ft.-lbs.
7/16 in. connecting rod bolt 67-73 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts, long 75 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts, short 65-68 ft.-lbs.
Screw-in rocker arm studs 50 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts (cast iron head) 25 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 65 ft.-lbs.
Cam sprocket bolts 20 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 85 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/Flexplate bolts 60 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Bell housing bolts 25 ft.-lbs.
Exhaust manifold bolts 20 ft.-lbs.


http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/128_9712_chevy_engine_specifications/photo_11.html
IF your going to use ARP main cap studs THE TORQUE SETTINGS ARE DIFFERENT than the original BOLTS, the STUDS ARE STRONGER, BUT,you might also consider that main studs generally install after cleaning the threads in the block with a tap,blowing them dry with high pressure air, oiling the studs course threads with the thread sealant and fine threads end with the ARP thread lube, when you screw them into the block the full thread depth,by hand, then get backed out one turn, the main caps installed and the nuts torqued in stages to seat and hold the main caps, now LOOK at those STUDS the end in the block threads is SAE COURSE thread, the end your torquing the nut on is SAE FINE THREAD with a much differant PITCH that requires less tq to give the same clamp loads
AND yes it very common for the stroker crank, counter weights or connecting rods in a 383-400 to touch a 350 oil pan, and make a ticking or knocking sound, if you don,t clearance it a bit more, with a ball peen hammer on the oil pan rail area, Id also check the dip stick as some touch the rotating assembly
for obvious interference, youll need to check this, it can be made to clear rather easily but it must be checked and properly fitted/clearanced


http://www.arp-bolts.com/catalog/Catalog.html
Why do they get backed out by one turn? I'm trying to think of the physics behind it, but I can't think of any good reason. What is the physics answer, Grumpy?
the threads must bear evenly and align correctly with the studs center line, for the stud to apply max loads over the total threaded surface ,the threaded section must be under tension alone and engage the total threaded surface in the block, if the stud is torqued into place, you've preloaded the threads bearing the load and they are partly under compressive loads ,your basically jacking the bottom of the threaded hole away from the threaded section, and applying THOUSANDS of lbs of extra stress to the blocks web area if you torque the threads to the same 100 ft lbs the original bolts were tightened to, the threads in the block will now have added stress once the full tension loads on the studs and main caps is applied by torquing the nuts on the studs ,theres added stress on the block, if the studs have bottomed out and are pushing on the bottom of the threaded hole making the block web area more likely to crack or the crank saddles to distort.
keep in mind FACTORY BOLTS are made slightly shorter to PREVENT the bolt tip bottoming out in the hole, but bolts cause wear on the threads because they are tightened while the bolts still advancing deeper into the threaded block, studs cause far less wear because they fully engage the threads bearing the loads before the tensive load is applied
heres what ARP says
"STUDS vs. BOLTS
ARP recommends the use of main studs over bolts whenever possible for several key reasons. First is the ability to obtain more accurate torque readings because studs don’t “twist†into the block. All clamping forces are on one axis. By the same token, there is less force exerted on the block threads, which contributes to improved block life (very critical on aluminum blocks). Finally, there are factors of easier engine assembly and proper alignment of caps every time"
ARP's instructions (for head studs)state that you should thread the studs into the block until they're hand-tight, but with the head on the block, this is difficult. Fortunately, ARP was thoughtful enough to incorporate a fitting for an Allen wrench into the head of each stud. So, using an Allen wrench, I threaded the studs into the head until I could no longer turn the wrench with two fingers. This method seems to have worked nicely
1. Clean and chase appropriate threads in
block to ensure proper thread engagement
and accurate torque readings.
2. All hardware (and caps) should be
cleaned and inspected prior to installation,
looking for any shipping damage or defects.
3. Screw studs into block, finger tight
ONLY. For permanent installation, apply
Loc-tite (or similar adhesive) sparingly
to threads. Be sure and install the caps
promptly before the cement sets to prevent
misalignment of studs in block.
1. Clean and chase appropriate threads in
block to ensure proper thread engagement
and accurate torque readings.
2. All hardware (and caps) should be
cleaned and inspected prior to installation,
looking for any shipping damage or defects.
There are a number of important considerations
when installing ARP main studs.
3. Screw studs into block, finger tight
ONLY. For permanent installation, apply
Loc-tite (or similar adhesive) sparingly
to threads. Be sure and install the caps
promptly before the cement sets to prevent
misalignment of studs in block.
First and foremost is making sure the
block and studs are as clean as possible.
Foreign matter and debris can easily affect
the quality of thread engagement and
cause erroneous torque readings. Do not
re-cut threads in the block – use the special
“chaser†taps as listed on page 87 of this catalog.
This will preserve the integrity of the
threads and provide better engagement.
Calibrate your torque wrench – even new
wrenches have been known to be off by as
much as 10 foot pounds! Use consistent
tightening techniques.
4. Install main caps, checking for binding
and misalignment. Lubricate threads, nuts
and washers with oil or ARP moly assembly
lubricant before installation. Note that torque
specs will vary by lubricant. Moly lube is
most consistent. Have block align honed.
5. Using the instructions provided with
the studs, tighten the nuts to proper
torque values three times. NOTE: If using
Loc-Tite or similar cement, proper preload
must be achieved prior to it setting up.
removing the rod caps during clearance checks while building your 383 ,does seem to allow you to see the clearance issues a bit easier
yes the cam lobes can very easily contact the connecting rods when the cam index is out of its proper timing, on almost any chevy engine the cam lobe center lines will be spaced at between 103 and 116 degrees, with the piston at TDC theres SUPPOSED to be about .060 MINIMUM clearance between the connecting rod bolts and cam lobes, this is a mandatory clearance check point and a plastic cable tie can be used to gauge clearance, its best done on each individual connecting rod to cam lobe clearance point AFTER the cams been degreed into the block as each connecting rods being installed but Ive generally done it during the several trial assembly points where I check other clearances like block to connecting rod clearance.
thats why on some stroker crank engines a SMALL BASE CIRCLE cam is used to MAXIMIZE CLEARANCE,between the two moving parts.
a cams lobe lift is the difference the lifter moves off the cams base circle between its base circle and its max lobe lift, thus a cam with a 1.1" diam base circle and a .400 lobe lift would have a , .400 lobe lift and if you had 1.5:1 ratio rockers a .600 valve lift, but if you wanted more clearance you could use a smaller base circle at .900, and a 400 lobe lift this would allow the connecting rod, to sweep by with an additional amount of cam lobe to connecting rod bolt clearance, the change in diameter generally requires a swap to a stronger cam billet core . vs cheaper cast core,to maintain cam strength






the cam rotates while indexed by the timing chain at 1/2 crank shaft speed , there are connecting rods designed to provide additional clearance.






http://www.arp-bolts.com/FAQ/FAQ.html
I usually use this sealant (sparingly)on the course ends of main cap studs that screw in hand tight, and ESPECIALLY on head studs that enter water jackets
http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/Permatex_Super_300_Form-A-Gasket_Sealant.htm

keep in mind the course thread section is not being screwed in or the threads moved as the nut on the fine thread upper end is torqued to spec. and that thread requires the ARP thread lubricant to get the correct stretch and that stud needs to be cycled up to full torque then released and re torqued,a minimum of three times to get the stretch/tq correct
I got asked recently what hydraulic roller cam ID suggest for a street/strip 383 combo?(obviously theres a wide selection that may work,)
ONE GENTLEMAN pointed out ,after shopping around one of the least expensive deals seems to be the EDELBROCK CAM BELOW
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/22015/10002/-1#
SB-Chevy 283-400 Hydraulic Roller Camshaft Kit
Duration Advertised 296° Intake/300° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' 234° Intake/238° Exhaust
Lift @ Valve .539'' Intake/.548'' Exhaust
Lift @ Cam .359'' Intake/.365'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle 112°
Intake Centerline 107°
Intake Timing @ .050" Open 10° BTDC
Close 44° ABDC
Exhaust Timing @ .050" Open 56° BBDC
Close 2° ATDC
IVE used similar cam designs (duration/lift/)in the past with excellent results and $709 for the cam, roller lifters and push rods is a good value, naturally the REST of the components and the cars drive train and the cars intended use will effect the choice
the only thing that makes me hesitate is the quality of edelbrocks cam cores.AS most IVE SEEN are not billet but cast cores which are less durable and on a 383, PLUS you want a small base circle cam......for rotating assembly clearance issues ,one reason I usually suggest this cam in similar combos
your cams lift is the result of the lifter movement distance from the cams base circle, where the valves seated to the point where its fully up on the nose of the cam lobe where the valves at full lift.
example
lets say in this case we compare two imaginary cams
a standard cams base circle is 1.125" and
your cams running on a .900 base circle
both cams have a .560 valve lift and run with 1.5:1 rockers
so both cams will need to move the lifter .374"
that means the standard cam lobe will be 1.125"+.374" or 1.499" from the cams base to the cam lobe nose
that means the small base cam lobe will be .900"+.374" or 1.274" from the cams base to the cam lobe nose
which is significantly smaller
http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119661&lvl=2&prt=5
http://www.jegs.com/i/Crane/270/119661/10002/-1#
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&N=0&Ntt=11532-16&Ntk=all&Nty=1&D=11532-16&Ntx=mode%2Bmatchallany&Dx=mode%2Bmatchallany&searchTerm=11532-16
Grind Number: HR-230/359-2S-12.90 IG
Operating Range: 3000-6500 RPM
Duration Advertised: 292° Intake / 300° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 230° Intake / 238° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.5 Rockers: .539'' Intake / .558'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 112°
Max Lift Angle: 107° ATDC Intake / 117° BTDC Exhaust
Open/Close @.050'' Cam Lift: Intake - 8° BTDC (opens) / 42° ABDC (closes)
Exhaust - 56° BBDC (opens) / 2° ATDC (closes)
with either cam you'll want a 3000rpm stall converter , about 10.5:1 cpr and a 3.73-4.11:1 rear gear to maximize the performance and a low restriction exhaust, headers and a high flow intake
IM currently running the crane 119661 cam in MY 383 and Ive tested over a dozen cams in that engine, so if its a street/strip combo ID suggest going that route, SMALL BASE CIRCLE AND BILLET CORE.....yeah! YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY,FOR and DURABILITY FOR PARTS TENDS TO COST MORE
BTW
IVE dunked my piston/ring assembly's in a can of MARVEL MYSTERY OIL just before installation with a ring compressor and have never seen the slightest indication of problems either on ring sealing getting the rings broken in, or on tearing the engines down later for inspections
remember that when you go to re-install the compressed piston rings, and piston in the engine block,bores that dunking the piston in MARVEL MYSTERY OIL , just before, its slid into the ring compressor will coat the rings and bore contact areas enough to prevent many small problems that insufficient lube might case