gear and damper pullers



gear and damper pullers

Postby grumpyvette » December 9th, 2008, 11:37 am

GEAR PULLERS, for me, its a darn love/hate relationship, most of the time if your using the correct design and a quality tool everything goes smoothly and you don,t give it a second thought, but if you don,t know what your doing, if your using a cheap tool or the wrong tool, the potential to screw up expensive components is very high!

first bit of advice, Id strongly suggest you NEVER waste money on crappy imported Chinese gear pullers they are a total waste of money
EXAMPLE
http://www.atiracing.com/products/dampe ... ctions.htm

I bought this set mostly just to see if there was any chance they were serviceable (but at $23 I really knew better, and I was correct the first puller I used broke withing minutes of force being applied)
http://www.harborfreight.com/three-jaw- ... 69105.html
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CAST right into the arms is the word (FORGED STEEL) they are NOT, they are a cheap brittle casting that breaks the first time a significant loads applied, I broke all three the first time I used them on applications that my old SEARS gear pullers smoothly and effectively removed with little effort.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66514
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or
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/shc-947626
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heres a reasonably CHEAP but serviceable sets
Id strongly suggest you buy three jaw style pullers the two arm tend to bend and fold some types of metal pulleys rather than remove them.

http://www.zoro.com/g/Mechanical%20Jaw% ... /00059706/
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http://www.zoro.com/i/G5310295/?category=5268
http://www.zoro.com/i/G5307382/?category=5268

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... Cookie=Yes

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/ ... 3315_13315

decent cheap pullers
http://www.stanleyproto.com/default.asp ... alog=PROTO

http://www.mytoolstore.com/otc/1020.html

keep in mind you NEVER want to center the threaded screw center section , of the puller into the end of a cranks threaded hole or the gear puller shaft will destroy the threaded section, UNLESS youve used a hardened center support between them.

http://www.stanleyproto.com/default.asp ... ement+Part

BTW check out local PAWN SHOPS I see snap-on and MAC gear pullers occasionally and buy any that are reasonably priced

use the correct tool, beating the damper onto the crank frequently damages both the damper and the thrust bearing in the engine

http://www.tavia.com/cat12.html#1

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"You put the damper on the crankshaft after oiling the crank snout and inner damper as far as you can get it with a few soft taps of large plastic mallet.

You thread grump's tool into the crankshaft as far as possible.OIL THE THREADS...with the roller bearing against the damper, the washer next, between the nut and roller bearing, then the nut,outer most, you turn the nut forcing the damper on, but be aware the damper generally slides on and the tool makes it fairly easy, so carefully watch as over tightening the tool once the damper bottoms against the cranks shoulder will brake the tool..........the picture depicts the tool set up for a sbc, you'll need to use the larger end and reverse it for the bbc

You then turn the real big nut, and the balancer walks on to the crankshaft

RELATED INFO
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=90

they also make combo puller/installers Proform 66514 - Proform
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http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_43866_-1

there's a TOOL designed expressly for removing the damper and its NOT a conventional swing jaw type gear puller LIKE THESE

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they tend to bind and distort the damper, frequently damaging it

youll need something like this (you can get a cheap version at most auto parts stores for under $40 but the one from summit better quality

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http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PRO%2D66514&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ATI%2D918999&autoview=sku



BTW
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the crank gears requires a 3 or 4 jaw gear puller ,because the two jaw style tends to try and fold/bind the gear into the crank snout, a lighted propane torch applied briefly to heat the crank gear tends to expand & loosen its hold on the crank
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http://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/safety_h ... llers.html


http://www.tooltopia.com/sunex-tools-39 ... lebase_18u
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http://www.tooltopia.com/kd-tools-3624.aspx


be aware that some damper designs do tend to fail over time!
beating a balancer onto a crank, pulling it with the wrong type of tool, or letting it get fuel or oil soaked can damage a damper, this can easily result in the outer damper ring with the TDC mark rotating to a random location

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if your front crank seal leaks, over time it can dissolve the elastic, between the inner and outer damper hub weight, beating on a damper tends to hurt the flex ring seal alsos
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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Re: gear and damper pullers

Postby grumpyvette » February 29th, 2012, 2:37 pm

I got a call from a Friend ,asking if I had the correct gear puller to remove a lower timing gear from a crank snout recently and after discussing the really sad state of the tools , currently available we both found out that its both hard to find quality gear pullers and that many of the current sets are crap cast imports that sell in many of the auto parts stores that are, not forged but cheap flimsy castings that fail.
I still have several I purchased from sears in the late 1960s-1970s that work fine but they are well worn.
I look for gear pullers at swap meets and pawn shops, and occasionally find bargains but it seems like theres far fewer serious mechanics or car guys around lately, just try and find a decent distributor wrench or gear puller


BTW this is a distributor wrench for those new guys that never saw one
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viewtopic.php?f=27&t=4069&p=10828&hilit=dwell+meter#p10828
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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Re: gear and damper pullers

Postby mathd » February 29th, 2012, 3:12 pm

i used this kind of puller on my old engine dissassembly
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I also used it for the crank gear(2 bolt and 2 nuts) it worked but its not the right tool for the crank gear job.
Mathieu
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Re: gear and damper pullers

Postby grumpyvette » July 7th, 2014, 2:07 pm

I recently had to pull a splined front axle hub on a front wheel drive car to inspect a wheel bearing, and that would be an impossible job without a decent quality three arm wheel puller with decent reach.
now I have a meager collection of a half dozen assorted gear pullers, in my tool chest but I wish I could find more at a decent price, i keep looking at yard sales, at pawn shops and on line, but I can tell you from experience all the crap Ive used or seen used thats been imported from china is a waste of money
(HF) like theses several friends bought
http://www.harborfreight.com/three-jaw- ... 69104.html
there have been several structural failures with these


these seem to be better quality
http://www.zoro.com/i/G0668665/?category=5268
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BTW have any of you guys found a good place to get quality gear pullers or also found a lot of the cheap import stuff laughably pathetically flawed
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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Joined: September 14th, 2008, 1:40 pm
Location: florida


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