block prep.



Re: block prep.

Postby grumpyvette » April 22nd, 2011, 10:52 am

Keeping Chevy 4-Bolt Mains From ‘Walking’

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article ... _2011.aspx

http://www.jegs.com/p/ARP/ARP-Main-Stud ... 8/10002/-1

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/1 ... ine_block/

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=6162&p=19172&hilit=splayed#p19172

All four-bolt small block Chevy main caps “walk” when used with either studs or bolts. The factory cap or a splayed cap relies on the register to locate itself because bolts and studs don’t fit well enough to keep the cap from walking. What I have decided to do when working with a stock block is to eliminate cap walk altogether. Here is how I do it.
I place 7/16˝ x 1/2˝ dowels as used in aftermarket connecting rods in the outer bolt holes. Since the O.D. of the dowel is 1/2˝ it is easy to locate the proper reamer. No drilling is necessary.

Set the block up and indicate hole locations. The bolt holes are already recessed. Ream to one half the distance of the dowel, and then do the same with the caps. Be sure to sink the holes at least .015˝ to keep from bottoming the dowels into the cap. This also leaves room for line honing.
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Done correctly, the line hone should not change. The block we used (pictured) required line honing anyway for the proper tolerance.

Anthony Milano
Paul Milano's Service
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: block prep.

Postby grumpyvette » February 12th, 2013, 11:46 am

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most blocks benefit from a LINE HONE to verify the crank center lines strait, a few might require a line bore where the caps and block are re-machined
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honing with a deck plate simulating the pressures the torqued in place head bolts exert on the block cylinder walls,tends to get a better ring seal
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DECKING THE BLOCK MIGHT BE REQUIRED
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ACCURATE MEASUREMENTS ARE CRITICAL
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if your asking can you spray it on a bare block to prevent rust from forming, in honed bore walls the answer is yeah! Ive done that on most of the spare bare blocks in storage on the shelves in the shop then I've wrapped the blocks in trash bags and placed them in large plastic storage for longer term storage,
I generally paint NON-machined surfaces, and use the rust preventative spray oil on machined surfaces during storage.
any machined surface that gets a gasket added later will need to be carefully degreased with acetone and alcohol and lint free shop rags, then dried before a sealant or gaskets applied Ive never had issues just starting an engine I built and put in storage for a few months,where Ive used it in the block as a rust preventative, it mixes with oil and seems to blend well, I generally just start an engine and break it in then change the oil after about 3 hours of run in time, and the rust preventative spray oil in areas I used it on gets blended and washes off.

an engine block and heads fit
http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-27-gal-Storage-Tote-in-Black-207585/205628022
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Image the new wd40 rust preventative spray works far better than the older version
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-99400/

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placing a block in a large trash bag when not working on it reduces trash and moisture,from the air getting in the block
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IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: block prep.

Postby grumpyvette » May 24th, 2014, 12:52 pm

its almost mandatory, when your prepping a block for a build to send it off to have it cleaned, but you can do a decent job with a pressure cleaner and a stiff brush, solvent and high pressure air, if all the critical machine works been completed, and you take the time to quickly coat all machines surfaces with a good rust preventative immediately after cleaning, if you remove all the oil passage plugs and cam bearings, and use a rifle bore cleaning brush to clean out the oil passages Its mandatory to remove ALL the oil passage plugs from any engine block and rod out the oil passages with a rifle bore cleaning rod with a bore brush to remove crud like machining chips ,if you want to be sure you get all the metallic trash removed after a cam, lifter or bearing fails, followed by a solvent spray wash and a long tip high pressure air nozzle blowing the passages dry and clear, of solvent and clear of debris before installing new oil passage plugs, after threading the ends for the plugs, and coating the threads with a locking thread sealant to hold them in place
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READ this related thread
viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1479
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CHEVY FRONT OIL PASSAGE PLUGS
CHEVY REAR BLOCK OIL PASSAGE PLUGS
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DART BLOCK REAR
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DART BLOCK FRONT
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http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/tech/ ... ug_basics/
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RELATED INFO
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=3224&p=19693&hilit=+rust+preventive+spray#p19693

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=4460&p=11720&hilit=wd40#p11720

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=614&p=12713&hilit=wd40#p12713
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: block prep.

Postby philly » May 24th, 2014, 3:56 pm

what do you think about using isopropyl alcohol as a water displacing agent grumpy? then following up with lube or oil of some sort?
-phil

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Re: block prep.

Postby grumpyvette » May 24th, 2014, 4:20 pm

alcohol is HYGROSCOPIC, its good for cleaning off some types of grease, but its not much help for more than cleaning,


The definition of hygroscopic is the property of readily absorbing moisture from the air, OR ANY PLACE IT COMES IN CONTACT WITH MOISTURE

it will greatly speed the evaporation rate of surface moisture it mixes with, and APPEARS to DRY THE SURFACE, but it won,t provide any protection, in fact it tends to speed corrosion forming
when I ran methanol alcohol in fuel injection units we had to run gas mixed with oil thru the units before we stored them even over a weekend or we saw rapid corrosion on brass and aluminum and steel components that got methanol soaked


a clean cotton rag soaked in ACETONE mixed with marvel mystery oil , followed by a spray of the new WD40 mix works as a corrosion barrier
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http://www.wd40specialist.com/products/ ... inhibitor/
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if you have any doubts, do a simple test, clean two separate, identical disposable parts like two 30 penny common nails, clean one with the ACETONE mixed with marvel mystery oil , followed by a spray of the new WD40 mix and, clean one with the alcohol,and gas mix fuel you run or just alcohol alone and then, label each nail and place it on a paper plate, set them out on a shelf in the shop for 10 days and see the results
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if you look at the 2 pictures I found posted (above)of a very common issue with engines stored for weeks or months during , or after a build, youll see the areas that were constantly soaked in oil failed to rust, yet those areas exposed to moisture in the air , no mater the low percentage still slowly form surface rust,this tends too be more cosmetic than structural in most cases but its easily prevented, the oil forms a moisture barrier that prevents rust but most oil eventually evaporates or runs off, spray any non painted surface with this product, and it will last at least a 1/2 year without rust in a semi dry environment like on an engine stand in a climate controlled trash bag, as it forms a very slow to degrade surface oily/wax like air barrier that will wash off with hot oil when the engine runs.

Ive only used it on a few engines so far over about a years time, but as far as Ive seen it just mixes with the oil in the engine with zero problem, Ive built and stored at least 8 engines now while useing it during storage and had zero issues and ZERO RUST FORM

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http://www.wd40specialist.com/products/ ... inhibitor/
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: block prep.

Postby Indycars » May 24th, 2014, 5:20 pm


Plus the cooling effect called latent heat of evaporation will cool the part and
cause condensation of moisture from the atmosphere.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/fluid ... d_147.html

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Latent_heat

We ran methanol in the sprint car motor and the intake would be cold to the
touch even thou the engine was at operating temperature. One of the benefits
of running alcohol was the cooler/denser air ingested by the motor.

Rick
Too much is just enough!!!

- Check Out My Dart SHP Engine Project: viewtopic.php?f=69&t=3814
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Re: block prep.

Postby philly » May 24th, 2014, 6:12 pm

oh im sure its corrosive i just meant flushing alcohol thru the coolant passages and oil passages after you wash the block... as an alternative to blowing compressed air (which should be noted to use a water air separator so theres no water blowing out the tip of your air gun) to ensure theres no water trapped in there.. then follow it with some marvel mystery oil for preservation.
-phil

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Re: block prep.

Postby grumpyvette » February 1st, 2015, 4:37 pm

I don,t see how anyone who's regularly building or re-building engines can not have access to a few tools to clean and dry out engine blocks, and a good pressure cleaner is one tool you really should have if your doing that type of block clean-up work. my son recently had his power pressure washer fail, and I lent him mine, which was basically functional but hardly running at ideal levels, it soon quit as it was at least 12 years old and Id run it occasionally with fuel laced with ethanol (A BIG MISTAKE) so when it quit and there were no parts available for repairs we both scraped up the cash to go 50%/50% on a new one from lowes with the firm understanding that neither of us will use ethanol laced fuel in it.
we managed to find a discount coupon and we got the pressure washer below for just under the listed price WITH the tax included

RELATED INFO
viewtopic.php?f=87&t=7770&p=46309&hilit=pressure+washer+ethanol#p46309

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=326&p=398&hilit=block+plugs#p398

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2187

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=4632&p=35248&hilit=gallery+plugs#p35248

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=614&p=818&hilit=engine+storage#p818

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=2919&p=26436&hilit=magnets+screens#p26436

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=1458&p=22845&hilit=magnets+screens#p22845

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http://www.lowes.com/pd_600025-24212-65 ... Heavy-duty
yes the block cleaning will still require a compressor, high pressure air nozzle .bore brushes and degreaser, paint and rust preventative plus plugs
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as I'm sure your aware, after careful dis-assembly,an older engine that looks rather well used and un-loved and homely ,can look much different after a careful cleaning those parts will come out of a cleaning,wither you do it or have a local machine shop do it in far better condition and once cleaned and painted look like a totally different engine. personally Ive found the price of a 3200psi pressure cleaner, and particle blast cabinet, pays for itself very rapidly in what you save in cleaning costs you would have other wise spent at the machine shop.
(don,t forget to clean out the internal oil passages and replace the cam bearings and use brass freeze plugs)[/color]
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don,t forget to PAINT all NON-machined surfaces with the correct heat and solvent resistant paint, install the cam bearings and gallery and freeze plugs correctly and to coat machined surfaces with rust barrier grease


I got a cheap heat gun from harbor freight, and a long reach air nozzle to help blow out oil passages, too help rapidly dry pressure cleaned blocks before I spray them down with WD 40 specialist,to prevent surface dust rust forming its got a low heat high heat settings and makes safe, fast work of the heat shrink tubing...or fast drying a block and it helps WD 40 penetrate and remove moisture they are on sale now for 15 bucks but I paid 20 for mine...not great quality but so far it works as well as required

http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt- ... 96289.html

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HAVING A DECENT ENGINE STAND < TO MOUNT ANY ENGINE BLOCK ON WHILE YOUR WORKING WITH IT,THATS EASY TO MOVE HELPS A GREAT DEAL
http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-cus ... 46819.html
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viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1018

yes its going to add some expense, (about $80 if you catch these on sale) but if you add the optional larger casters to an engine stand it allows you to maneuver the legs of the stand so they roll over the crane
probably a better design but not foldable
[color=#BF0000] I like what you did, that looks nice,btw,
Ive got two types of engine stands designs in my shop,(4 engine stands)but I added 4 of these wheels to each stand
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200442439
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HERES A GUY THAT FEELS A FAR MORE RIGID STAND IS A BIGGER ADVANTAGE THAN HAVING IT FOLD UP SMALLER FOR EASY STORAGE
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http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200305213
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IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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