rods that don,t destroy your budget



rods that don,t destroy your budget

Postby grumpyvette » January 11th, 2015, 11:17 am

25C 70 wrote:Rebuilding a 70 l34. From what I've read it is more cost effective to buy new rods than re-bolt and re-size the originals. My question is what manufacturer is preferred and what bolt size 3/8 or 7/16. thanks.


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I know from long experience that the stock connecting rods, and pressed in pins that are pictured above are fully adequate for a stock rebuild ,but I would never personally re-use stock connecting rods without upgrading the rods with a careful polish resizing and bead blast, then,upgrading to ARP wave-lock rod bolts, but that is fairly expensive in most guys eyes, and in my mind is a total waste of time, as I vastly prefer far stronger 7/16" ARP rod bolt SCAT rods with the full floating pistons,pins and 4340 forged rods that allow easy self assembly and reassembly during the often repeated clearance checking procedures.
the reason is simple, by the time you pay to have the much stronger ARP rod bolts installed on stock rods and have them polished to remove stress risers the average machine shop parts and labor cost equals or exceeds the cost of the far stronger SCAT aftermarket rods.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/74038- ... ting-rods/
yes much of that labor could be done at home if you have the correct tools and know whats required,
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-134-6403
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-2 ... /overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-26000716

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-6600021
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IVE used these connecting rods,with 7/16" ARP rod bolts, in most SBC 383-406 builds with complete success, but as mentioned always CHECK clearances
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-26135

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-26385716

and these with 7/16" ARP rod bolts,rods in most BBC builds with zero problems, I can,t imaging why anyone would use 3/8" rod bolts as they are a MINIMUM or 20% weaker due to the smaller cross sectional area, this larger 7/16" rod bolt,adds little weight for the significant strength upgrade

read this
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=510

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=1168&p=41255&hilit=polish+rods#p41255
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: rods that don,t destroy your budget

Postby philly » January 11th, 2015, 11:58 pm

alot of people overlook rod bolts but grumpy has a legit point... the crank is spinning, and most pistons have a hefty pin in them, but the weight of the inertia of the piston as it has to change directions in the cylinder puts great stress on the rod bolt. even if you have an inherently light piston the stresses are incredible.. theres no reason to skimp on rod bolts, but theres great reason not to
-phil

There's never enough money to build it right, but there's always enough to build it twice!
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Re: rods that don,t destroy your budget

Postby Strictly Attitude » January 12th, 2015, 9:43 am

I feel rod bolts are a 1 strength upgrade seems to be the weakest link allot of times
"IF YOU CAN SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!"

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