If your looking for new pistons do some research, youll need to know the bore size, stroke, rod length, piston pin type,piston ring design , and at least a general idea on combustion chamber and valve size, valve diameter, and intended valve lift and cam timing to get clearances correct.and several other related facts before you can select the correct piston
lets look at your options, obviously both your intended use and/or rpm range will effect the logical options as will your budget.
your first option is between cast, hypereutectic and forged alloy pistons, cast are generally cheap and function well under low heat and load like normal driving, hypereutectic have a much stiffer alloy that
has silicone added and these are slightly stronger, forged are significantly stronger , less likely to break,but more expensive
your second common choice is selecting between 5.7" and 6" connecting rods.
your third choice is between pressed and full float wrist pins.
your fourth choice will depend on compression ration desired.
examples, of cast and hyper pistons for a common 350-383 sbc, usually cost about $170-$250 per set of 8
forged will commonly run in the $370-$500 range per set but will be a better option if nitrous is used or you intend to run over 4000 feet per minute in piston speed frequently
I HAVE ALWAYS PREFERRED FULL FLOATING PISTON PINS
(that way you can self assemble the piston on each connecting rod)
(which comes in handy when you need to change piston deck height/quench, and side clearance etc.)
AND CUT TO FIT RINGS
(which allow a true custom fit)
and if possible forged pistons
(which are more durable and less subject to as rapidly occurring damage from detonation)
now I have zero problem using hyper-eutectic pistons in the proper applications because they work as well or at least as well as required with little or no down side if you remember the previous stated limitations
related info
http://www.kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=piston
http://www.jepistons.com/TechCorner/HowToIdentify.aspx
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=110&p=31943&hilit=2618+4032#p31943
viewtopic.php?f=69&t=7804&p=30277&hilit=2618+4032#p30277
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=4516&p=16279&hilit=2618+4032#p16279




http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar80125.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypereutectic_piston
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=5454
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=5064&p=14370#p14370
http://www.kb-silvolite.com/assets/auto ... ctions.pdf
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engi ... index.html
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=509&p=632#p632
http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles ... index.html
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article ... s_new.aspx
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/eb40354.htm
http://kb-silvolite.com/article.php?action=read&A_id=5
http://kb-silvolite.com/article.php?action=read&A_id=1
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypereutectic_piston
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=907570
http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles ... index.html
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=509&p=868&hilit=+total+seal+gapless#p868
http://www.techlinecoatings.com/article ... rticle.htm
http://www.kb-silvolite.com/article.php ... ad&A_id=64


read these links
http://arp-bolts.com/pages/technical_failures.shtml
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/stee ... index.html
here is where you, or your machine shop can screw things up on ring to bore seal, you need to have the cylinders bored and honed to the correct size specified by the manufacturer of the pistons,after MEASURING THE PISTONS to verify their size per the piston manufacturers instructions, then gap the rings per the ring manufacturers instructions, when you hone the bores,get and use block deck hone plates, during the hone process , keep in kind you want to use the same (STUDS OR BOLTS) the machine shop used and the same torque settings they used when the cylinders were honed with deck plates or the distortion of the bore and ring seal won,t be identical (exactly round)or ideal, keep in mind the piston side clearance must match what the piston manufacturer states.