cheap damper/ballancer source

[grumpyvette]

read thru these links they provide you with a good deal of useful info

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=562

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=83

http://www.professional-products.com/da ... Bchevy.php

http://www.damperdudes.net//index.php?c ... b499dd046c

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... &y=13&x=43

http://www.flatlanderracing.com/scat-dampers.html

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/tech ... index.html

the stock TYPE balancer has a rubber ring glued between the inner hub and outer inertial ring and yes they do deteriorate over time and have been known to slip, especially if subjected to being oil soaked over time




http://www.atiracing.com/products/dampe ... amserp.htm

http://www.bhjdynamics.com/downloads/pd ... r_Info.pdf

ID strongly suggest you buy a decent damper it can prolong your rotating assembly's life expectancy, not look for the least expensive component,
KEEP in mind as the rpms increase the number of power strokes per minute and the speed of the crank moving away from that force on each crank journal increases so the TIME and DURATION of individual power strokes has less individual effect on the rotating assembly, as the crank can,t flex as far or return as much between power pulses.
I almost hate to comment, on Chinese import stuff, but yes its been my experience that for a cheaper damper they work reasonably well, in the lower rpm bands,certainly as well or better than a stock damper, but you need a damper that works over a full rpm range of the engine,they also may not be indexed correctly so verify that before you trust them, as even a cheap replacement part.

you might also keep in mind stock elastomer dampers have a distressing tendency to come apart violently at 6000-9000rpm and large chunks of metal suddenly exiting the engine tend to be counter productive

you might want to read thru these


http://fluid-damper.com/

http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles ... index.html

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/tech ... index.html

http://www.fluidampr.com/HOWITWORKS.htm

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/engine ... index.html

http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInf ... r_tech.asp

use the correct tool to install the balancer
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/OTC-6505/?rtype=10
watch video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QORm5fnCvYA&NR=1




http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/66514/10002/-1



life is SOOOO MUCH easier if you buy and use the correct tools

[grumpyvette]

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku



every true serious engine builder needs a cam degree kit.


http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... &x=33&y=11


if your going to reuse the OEM damper on your engine a great way to improve the looks and function is to carefully verify the TDC true location and install the carefully indexed damper cover, which is really cheap, with its degreed outer surface.
OR, if your really bucks down....
carefully clean and degrease the damper and install a adheasive timing tape.
naturally youll need to verify dia. before selecting the correct tape or damper cover, and verify bTDC when installing either.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... 4294843277

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... 5&x=37&y=9

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku




ONCE the cams degreed in correctly ,if your going to reuse the OEM damper on your engine a great way to improve the looks and function is to carefully verify the TDC true location and install the carefully indexed damper cover,which is really cheap, with its degreed outer surface.
OR, if your really bucks down....
carefully clean and degrease the damper and install a adheasive timing tape.
, you can make changes to the TDC location if necessary or totally ignore the original TDC mark if necessary. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku



but ID point out that almost every new guy wants to GLUE or EPOXY it onto the damper, thats a HUGE NO!/NO!, think about it the outer ring on the damper is independent from the inner hub BY DESIGN and seperated by an elastomer ring that allows it to swing rapidly a few degrees to absorb harmonics, if the center hub bolts to the center ring and the belt pullies hold it firmly in place , and then you go and epoxy the outer ring to the cover the damper becomes all but useless

http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/tdc.html

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... 4294843277

[b]TDC NEVER CHANGES
theres three slots in the crank gear and they are labled A,O, and R in many cases, look carefully at the links and pictures
line up the dot-to-dot cam gear/crank gear index like you normally would do,

then without moving cam or crank
remove just the gears and install the crank gear using the (R) slot on the keyway

http://www.performancedepot.com/ART/pro ... 0_Inst.pdf

look at fig. 8 bottom right on this link

notice the crank keyway location never changes, nor does the cam gear in the picture
if the crank gear slot with the (R) is used the index(R) on the crank gear is used to line up the cam gear, youll find that the crank does not need to move much if at all, but the cam needs to be rotated only a slight amount now to get everything re-aligned

[grumpyvette]

look at the picture carefully
the small 7/16 thread ,on the tool threads into the crank, the damper slips over the tool, the large washer style bearing slips over the tool followed by the solid washer followed by the large nut that threads on the tool, the back of the tool is normally a 9/16 or 5/8 hex this is held with a box end wrench to keep the engine from turning, the large nut is usually a 1 1/8" nut and it is tightened with an open end 1 1/8" wrench or a adjustable wrench against the two washers drawing the damper onto the crank snout! lube the threads on the tool, the inside of the damper and crank snout with oil before starting. the damper will normally slide on about 1/4 of the way bye hand then the tool is needed to draw the damper on the last 3/4 of the distance, don,t over tighten the tool the 7/16" thread will snap off in the crank after the damper bottoms out on the lower timing gear if you do!,
NEVER USE A HAMMER AND BLOCK OF WOOD TO DRIVE THE DAMPER ON, YES THOUSANDS OF GUYS THINK THEY DID IT WITHOUT ANY PROBLEMS BUT...
IT WILL DAMAGE THE THRUST BEARING CLEARANCES,
IT CAN BREAK THE ELASTOMER TORSION RING ON STOCK DAMPERS
IT CAN CAUSE THE INERTIAL RING ON FLUIDAMPER TO BECOME JAMMED INTERNALLY
IT CAN CAUSE THE DAMPER TO FAIL.
IF THE DAMPER FAILS THE CRANK WILL EVENTUALLY BE DAMMAGED
IT GREATLY STRESSES THE CRANK SHAFT
IT CAN DAMAGE THE CRANKS TRANSMISSION PILOT BEARING
IT CAN DAMAGE THE TRANSNSMISSION
ALMOST EVERY TYPE OF DAMAGE IS NOT SOMETHING THAT SHOWS UP RIGHT AWAY, BUT IT WILL DAMAGE THE PARTS LISTED AND THERES THOUSANDS OF GUYS THAT ARE WONDERING WHY THOSE PARTS FAILED 6-24 MONTHs LATER WITH NO CLUE AS TO THE CAUSE!
[bASK YOURSELF THIS QUESTION, IF CRANKSHAFTS THAT ARE A FEW THOUSANDS OUT OF LINE I.E. NOT PERFECTLY STRAIT ARE BENT/STRAITEND WITH A LEAD HAMMER BY CRANK MANUFACTURES (and yes thats how its done) AND CRANKS THAT ARE DROPPED ON A CONCRETE FLoOR SOMETIMES BEND SLIGHTLY ,(happens all the time) WHAT MAKES YOU THINK THAT BEATING ON THEM WITH A HAMMER AND A BLOCK OF WOOD WONT DAMMAGE THEM? AND WHILE WERE AT IT WHAT WOULD YOU DO TO SOME GUY YOU CAUGHT BEATING ON YOUR ENGINE BLOCK WITH A HAMMER? WELL WHAT DO YOU THINK THE CRANKS DOING TO YOUR MAIN CAPS WHEN YOU BEAT ON THE CRANK? PROPERLY USED THAT INSTALLATION TOOL CAN EXCERT OVER 15 TONS OF PRESSURE TO SLIDE THE DAMPER ON, IF IT WONT SLIDE ON, THERES A PROBLEM! FIND IT AND FIX IT .....DON,T BEAT ON THE DAMPER/CRANK

threads in the crank snout are not designed to be used to pull the damper on using the stock retaining bolt, theres simply not enough threads at the start of the process and they tend to pull out. ideally you buy or rent or borrow and use the correct tool

http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/66514/10002/-1

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=279&p=1684&hilit=damper#p1684

Yes you can buy a thick stack of fender washers and a GRADE #8 bolt thats 1" longer than the stock bolt and use that as a cheap damper installation tool, but your still taking a huge chance at screwing up the threads in the crank compared to installing the tools threaded shaft into the crank snout and using the roller bearing and huge nut on the much larger threads on the tool to draw the damper onto the snout of the crank, just be careful because the damper tends to slide on with far less resistance and over tightening the tool once it bottoms out will snap off the tool in the crank in a heart beat.......ask me how I know?? yes they sell replacement parts for the tool

[grumpyvette]

INSTRUCTIONS, on the procedure, FINDING TOP DEAD CENTER

http://www.atiracing.com/products/dampe ... ctions.htm

http://www.frontiernet.net/~ennis/tdc.html

http://www.2quicknovas.com/2qntdc.html

http://www.classiccarauto.com/impala/ho ... _tdc.shtml
YOULL WANT THESE TOOLS TO DO IT EASILY

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku


http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku



theres also a thread on the use of TIMING TAPE, and/or adjustable timing tabs that can be used to correct the TDC marks the damper TDC marking IF the outer ring has not slipped.
ONCE youve verified TDC, make darn sure the damper and timing tab agree on reality vs factory marks IF they differ