can I get it polished

"HEY grumpy I got a good deal on a new forged 454 crank, but the guy I bought it from purchased it for a project and had it sitting on a shelf for over 5 years and its got a few rusty finger prints on the journals, can it be used?"
Since its a FORGED crank, Id bring it to a good machine shop, for a close inspection,and measurement ,and get their opinion,a good machine shop that can check it out, and polish it if required,you could buy a cast crank for less than $300, a forged crank can easily cost more than double that money, so the $100-$170 most machine shops might charge to recondition the forged crank could easily be worth it, depending on the initial cost of the crank.
but in the majority of cases it can be polished or cut slightly under size, then it can be polished and will be fine,
get the machine shop to order the matching size clevitte (H) bearing set, and IF it was my project ID get the matching SCAT connecting rods pistons and rings, bearings, damper ,flexplate or flywheel, etc. and have the whole assembly balanced
[b] adding a couple high heat tolerance magnets to the engine helps trap, the metallic debris,the finer stuff gets easily washed into the sump with the oil flow, any parts failure like that generates BEFORE the abrasive grit gets sucked thru the oil pump and be aware the oil filter won,t always prevent 100% of the grit reaching the bearings.
IVE typically used several of these magnets in any engine,Ive built, one in the rear oil drain on each cylinder head, one near each lifter gallery drain and 4 in the oil pan sump

http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D82SH

BE AWARE magnets heat tolerance differs so ask for and pay attention to the heat limitations, a MINIMUM of 300F for any magnet expected to be used bathed in hot engine oil would be smart
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when you get the crank polished take the time and effort to clean out any cross drill oil feed passages and to very carefully de-burr the passage opening edges, as this is a very commonly overlooked issue, below is what at first looks like a perfectly polished crank, with oil feed passages to the rod bearings, but the deep scratches the oil feed passage openings left in the rod bearing surfaces bare witness, after a single rotation, during a trial assembly show they are HARDLY burr free or ready for use, and obviously he failed to check each rod bearing during the assembly process, and probably ignored , what was very likely un-even or rather excessive resistance to the crank rotation. which should never exceed about 40 ft lbs even with all 8 rod bearings and pistons installed


Since its a FORGED crank, Id bring it to a good machine shop, for a close inspection,and measurement ,and get their opinion,a good machine shop that can check it out, and polish it if required,you could buy a cast crank for less than $300, a forged crank can easily cost more than double that money, so the $100-$170 most machine shops might charge to recondition the forged crank could easily be worth it, depending on the initial cost of the crank.
but in the majority of cases it can be polished or cut slightly under size, then it can be polished and will be fine,
get the machine shop to order the matching size clevitte (H) bearing set, and IF it was my project ID get the matching SCAT connecting rods pistons and rings, bearings, damper ,flexplate or flywheel, etc. and have the whole assembly balanced
[b] adding a couple high heat tolerance magnets to the engine helps trap, the metallic debris,the finer stuff gets easily washed into the sump with the oil flow, any parts failure like that generates BEFORE the abrasive grit gets sucked thru the oil pump and be aware the oil filter won,t always prevent 100% of the grit reaching the bearings.
IVE typically used several of these magnets in any engine,Ive built, one in the rear oil drain on each cylinder head, one near each lifter gallery drain and 4 in the oil pan sump

http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D82SH

BE AWARE magnets heat tolerance differs so ask for and pay attention to the heat limitations, a MINIMUM of 300F for any magnet expected to be used bathed in hot engine oil would be smart
related info[/b]
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=2728&p=9886&hilit=polish+journal#p9886
viewtopic.php?f=38&t=3900&p=28672&hilit=balance#p28672
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=2726&p=7077&hilit=plastigauge#p7077
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=141&p=175&hilit=balance#p175
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=510&p=1158&hilit=cross+drill#p1158
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=204
viewtopic.php?f=51&t=6162&p=19172&hilit=main+caps+dowels#p19172
viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2187
viewtopic.php?f=51&t=4324&p=11404&hilit=bevel+journal#p11404
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=852&p=1311&hilit=bevel+journal#p1311
when you get the crank polished take the time and effort to clean out any cross drill oil feed passages and to very carefully de-burr the passage opening edges, as this is a very commonly overlooked issue, below is what at first looks like a perfectly polished crank, with oil feed passages to the rod bearings, but the deep scratches the oil feed passage openings left in the rod bearing surfaces bare witness, after a single rotation, during a trial assembly show they are HARDLY burr free or ready for use, and obviously he failed to check each rod bearing during the assembly process, and probably ignored , what was very likely un-even or rather excessive resistance to the crank rotation. which should never exceed about 40 ft lbs even with all 8 rod bearings and pistons installed

