oil pan gaskets



oil pan gaskets

Postby grumpyvette » September 22nd, 2008, 10:13 am

now Im sure most of you guys have seen or used both types, (the old cork 4 piece sets and the newer synthetic one piece design oil pan gaskets)
in my opinion the newer synthetic one piece style is FAR superior!
if you read the instructions they say to not use a sealant, Ive found that use of contact cement ONLY on the surface between the upper gasket and blocks lower edge to be a better idea as you can slide the gasket in place then install the oil pan, especially if your under the car, but I also advise the use of STUDS in the BLOCK whenever you can use them as its so much more precise and keeps the gasket from moving as much during the installation procedure.Ive usually used the gasket with contact cement on the upper surface and studs to keep in located until the pans aligned and installed, because doing it way makes the installation far easier
BTW the 4 corner studs are a different diam. (larger) so keep that in mind and you don,t want the studs to extend to far below the block as it can cause clearance and installation problems if your sliding the pan on/off under the car with the K-member,
Image

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=1718&p=4257&hilit=rear+seal#p4257

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=699&p=972#p972

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=525&p=4599&hilit=clay#p4599

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=301&p=1815&hilit=+one+piece+crank#p1815

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=26

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=474&p=585&hilit=+synthetic#p585

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MOR%2D38350&autoview=sku

THIS MAY COME IN HANDY


viewtopic.php?f=54&t=65

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=761&p=1092&hilit=+sequence#p1092

and remember the oil pan will only clear that K-member with the crank counter weights in a single location, so if your having a caniption fit trying to get it to clear the K-frame the counter weights more than likely in the wrong rotational location, SPIN IT OVER A BIT TO CLEAR :thumbsup:


ONE PIECE OIL PAN GASKETS
Image

HERES A BASIC LIST
SMALL BLOCK FELPRO

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_746664_-1_10197

TWO PIECE REAR SEAL

OS34509T: Thin seal

OS34510T: Thick seal

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_47050_-1

one-piece main seal blocks use this one:
OS34500R

Which type you use is dependent on your oil pan, not the block or timing cover.


BBC LISTED ALSO

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_746664_-1_10197

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&Ntt=oil+pan+gaskets&searchinresults=false&N=700+115&y=8&x=43

Image
Image

Image
here you can see the thin line of sealant under the rear main cap, thats sometimes overlooked resulting in a slow drip near the rear main seal
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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Re: oil pan gaskets

Postby grumpyvette » October 2nd, 2008, 3:03 pm

ONE PIECE OIL PAN GASKETS
1974 and earlier pans had a shallower/thinner front gasket opening where the pan meets the timing chain cover and 1975 and later used a deeper/thicker pan gasket in this area, the 1985 and some other blocks used the right hand dip stick further complicating things

theres two common gasket thickness measurements,Put a straight edge across the front of the oil pan and measure down to the lowest part of where the seal rests directly centered under the crank,the distance from the strait edge to the lower front oil pan is the measurement you need,. It's the oil pan that determines thick or thin seal, not the timing cover.

IVE GENERALLY HAD THE BEST RESULTS WITH ONE PIECE OILPAN GASKETS AND USING STUDS

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-38360
Image
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-38350
Image
2-1/4" = thin seal
2-3/8" = thick seal

HERES A BASIC LIST (SBC)
SMALL BLOCK FELPRO

Fel Pro #375-OS34510T

Replacement Oil Pan Gasket
PermaDryPlus
1975-85 SBC 262-400
Right-hand dipstick

Image
Fel Pro #375-1880
H/P Oil Pan Gasket
PermaDryPlus
1975-79 SBC 262-400 (side rails cut for Strokers)
9/64" thick
Thick Front Seal
Left-hand dipstick

Fel Pro #375-1881
H/P Oil Pan Gasket
PermaDryPlus
1980-85 SBC 262-400 (side rails cut for Strokers)
9/64" thick
Thick Front Seal
Right-hand dipstick


Fel Pro #375-1882
H/P Oil Pan Gasket
PermaDryPlus
SB-Chevy & race blocks with straight side rails
9/64" thick
Thick Front Seal

Fel Pro #375-1885
H/P Oil Pan Gasket
PermaDryPlus
1957-74 SBC 262-400
9/64" thick
Thin Front Seal
Left-hand dipstick

Fel Pro #375-OS-34509T
Replacement Oil Pan Gasket
PermaDryPlus
1957-74 SBC 262-400
Thin Front Seal
Left-hand dipstick



Fel Pro #375-OS34500R
Replacement Oil Pan Gasket
Rubber-coated/steel core
1986-99 SBC 305-350




Fel Pro #375-OS34510T
Replacement Oil Pan Gasket
PermaDryPlus
1975-85 SBC 262-400
Right-hand dipstick
HERES A BASIC LIST (BBC)

Fel Pro #375-1884R
H/P Oil Pan Gasket
PermaDryPlus
1965-90 BBC 396-454
3/32" thick



Fel Pro #375-OS34407R

Replacement Oil Pan Gasket
Rubber-coated/steel core
1991-2000 BBC 454

Fel Pro #375-1893 (THREE PIECE)
H/P Oil Pan Gasket
Rubber-coated/steel core
1965-90 BBC 396-454
1991-Up BBC 454-572
Side rails cut to clear rods

Fel Pro #375-1863
Replacement Oil Pan Gasket
Rubber-coated multipiece
Donovan-Merlin blocks


BIG BLOCK MOPAR

Fel Pro #375-1834
H/P Oil Pan Gasket
Rubber-coated/steel core
1958-79 361-440 & Hemi
3/32" thick



http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s ... 4_-1_10197

http://www.jegs.com/i/Milodon/697/41000/10002/-1

TWO PIECE REAR SEAL

OS34509T: Thin seal

OS34510T: Thick seal

BOTH LEFT HAND DIPSTICK
looks like you need the #OS34509T: Thin seal,if you need a thin front seal
but that only comes in left hand
so you might be forced to use
the older 4 piece design if you need a thin seal and right hand dip stick

Right-hand dipstick
375-1818

have the Felpro catalog and they show 5 SBC one piece gasket part numbers:

PN1881 1980-85 thick front seal RH dipstick; side rails trimmed for strokers
PN1880 1975-79 thick front seal LH dipstick; side rails trimmed for strokers
PN1885 1957-74 thin front seal LH dipstick
PN1882 Thick front seal straight side rails; side rails trimmed for strokers
PN1886 1986-97 thick front seal, one 1pc rear main seal GM bowtie short deck block
________

per jegs #'s FEL-PRO SMALL BLOCK CHEVY
1957-1975 1 piece 37.99 #1885
1986-1997 1 piece 39.99 #1886

MR.GASKET SMALL BLOCK CHEVY
1975-1985 1 piece 27.99 #6560
1986-1996 1 piece 27.99 #6561

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s ... 2_47050_-1

one-piece main seal blocks use this one:
OS34500R

Which type you use is dependent on your oil pan, not the block or timing cover.


BBC LISTED ALSO

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s ... 4_-1_10197

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... 5&y=8&x=43

keep in mind on big blocks theres mark IV, mark V and MARK VI oil pan gaskets

Grumpy, what should you torque the bolts to and in what pattern?

this should help, (I generally snug the bolts up on the oil pan by feel and don,t over tighten them, and I generally use a small 1/4" drive ratchet to do so, not a tq wrench, (I think its 14-15 ft lbs or 165-170 inch lbs if you want to get technical) Im sure theres a specification, your supposed to use but Ive seldom had any problems just snugging them up by the feel with a short 1/4" drive ratchet.) I generally tighten in stages and constantly circle the pattern, I think the main problem occur when guys OVER TIGHTEN and crush the gaskets, snug but not tight works, if the gaskets being squished out noticeably between the block and pan lip, your more than likely over tightening the bolts, heres where experience comes into play, if your not sure use a inch rated tq wrench at 170 inch lbs

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81323

http://www.small-block-chevy.com/assemblyspec.html

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/performanc ... D=968.html

http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/oilsystem/index.cfm

BTW oil pan rails are flimsy on some oil pans
ID check the oil pan rails are not bent/warped and if you need to use some black silicone sealant, but Ive never yet had that be necessary, most leaks are the result of EITHER the gasket not being seated correctly or over tightening the bolts bending oil pan.

you might want to Use with P/N 12553058 RH and P/N 12553059 LH oil pan reinforcement plates to distribute the bolt stress on the oil pan rail for 1985 and earlier oil pans P/N 14088501 (LH) and P/N 14088502 (RH).1986 and newer
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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Re: one piece oil pan gaskets

Postby grumpyvette » November 26th, 2008, 10:05 am

No, you do not need to lift the engine to change the oil pan gasket, on a c4 corvette, but although it's actually a pretty simple job, its time consuming and experience helps a great deal


but the crank counter weights PREVENT the pan clearing the cross member in all but one location in the rotation and even then most guys find that loosening one motor mount to jack the engine up 1/4"-3/4" higher is just not that difficult vs constantly indexing the crank and pan., and a one piece gasket CONTACT cemented to the block & front timing cover before the pans installed smooths the process

BTW if your doing a cam swap , not an oil pan gasket replacement the synthetic oil pan gaskets tend to be far more durable
If you simply need to remove the timing cover,you can frequently loosen the oil pan ENOUGH , to allow the timing cover to be removed and replaced if you have the ONE PIECE SYNTHETIC OIL PAN GASKETS, if not the chances are much higher that the old cork, and rubber end piece style oil pan gaskets or front timing cover style gaskets might leak
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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Posts: 14105
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Re: oil pan gaskets

Postby TigerVette » December 22nd, 2009, 9:40 pm

Dang Grumpy, wish I had searched for this earlier - would have made my life easier. Same gasket I used too, helped get a solid seal against the block.

What's funny is I was laying under the Vette wishing I had studs for the oil pan. :lol:

Below is what I did instead, it wasn't the most straight-forward solution, but it got the job done.

"I'm using a one piece gasket, which is very prone to flopping out of place just when you get it to the block. So I used small zipties around the outside of the pan and one in the middle to hold the gasket in place. I made sure to put the ziptie on so the locking piece was out of the way. Once I got a few bolts started, I just snipped the zipties off and made sure the gasket was clear of debris."
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