mark V BBC ENGINE oil system differences



mark V BBC ENGINE oil system differences

Postby grumpyvette » February 12th, 2011, 3:04 pm

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The oil filter fitting for the Mark V (left) differs from the standard Mark IV mount. They can't be confused.

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The Mark V big-block requires oil system bypass valves to make it compatible with an engine-mounted oil filter system. Forget these bypass valves, and you can kiss your engine goodbye, as oil will not circulate properly through the engine.

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mark V (5) and mark VI (6) blocks have one piece rear seal cranks and this type oil filter boss above (later lower compression emission style truck engines)
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mark IV (4) blocks have two piece rear seal cranks and this type oil filter boss above (the muscle car era engines)
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1991-1997 BBC MARK V (above and below)
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with the revised MARK VI (6) the manual FUEL pump boss was reinstated
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mark IV or common early BBC engine1965-1990 (These TWO PICTURES POSTED ABOVE)



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if your looking for an oil pan Id suggest,you call these guys and ask for suggestions, prices and info, give them all the info you can and ask about header, frame, suspension, access/and clearance,problems, oil filter access/clearances, maximum crank stroke, etc.
Id suggest you select a 7-8 quart baffled design with no more than 8" depth on most cars and a 7" depth on low cars like corvettes
theres basically stock 4-5 quart oil pans that fit but they don,t provide ideal lubrication
because of differences in the oil pumps and main cap designs and clearances its common that if you use a mark IV oil pump you'll need to clearance it like the pictures show to install it on a mark V-VI engine
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greg_moreira posted this bit of info
"GenVI production block has advantages and disadvantages. Talking 454 block, not the 502.


mounting the oil pump to the rear main cap
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failure to use the correct oil pump,mounting stud, bolt or nut or carefully check clearances when mounting an oil pump can cause problems, AND THE HEIGHT OF THE MAIN CAPS AND OIL PUMP CASTINGS DO DIFFER, ESPECIALLY ON THE LATER BIG BLOCK VS THE EARLY BIG BLOCK COMPONENTS
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BE 100% SURE that the oil pump bolt or STUD doesn,t protrude past the inner main cap surface , because if it bears on the rear main bearing shell it will almost always result in a quickly failed rear bearing[/b
[b]ONE RATHER COMMON MISTAKE IS USING THE WRONG OIL PUMP STUD OR BOLT TO MOUNT THE OIL PUMP AS IF EITHER EXTENDS THRU THE REAR MAIN CAP SURFACE, IT CAN AND WILL BIND ON THE BEARING SHELL BACK SURFACE AND CAN LOCK OR RESTRICT, SMOOTH CRANK ROTATION.
STUDS ARE PREFERRED BECAUSE THEY GET THE THREADS THAT ENTER THE MAIN BEARING CAP COATED WITH THREAD LOCKER, LIQUID , THEN SCREWED IN TO THE MAIN CAP UNTIL THEY TOUCH THE BACK OF THE BEARING SHELL THEN BACKED OF 3/4 OF A TURN , THE OIL PUMP MOUNTED , AND THE WASHER AND FINE THREAD LOCKING NUT SECURED PER THE TORQUE SPECS.THIS INSURES THE STUD DOES NOT BEAR ON THE REAR BEARING SHELL , A BOLT WHEN TIGHTENED MUST BE TURNED DEEPER INTO THE THREADS IN THE REAR MAIN CAP, AND ITS MUCH HARDER TO PREVENT IT FROM BEARING OR CAUSING PRESSURE ON THE BACK OF THE BEARING SHELL IF ITS A BIT TOO LONG (A COMMON ISSUE, IN REBUILDS WHERE THE WRONG BOLTS USED.)


viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2187&p=5890#p5890
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]yes the oil flows around the mounting stud,from oil pump to main cap to reach the engine oil passages, thru the oil filter
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just keep in mind that you'll need to very carefully blend and smooth and carefully clean,the edges of the beveled area where the oil port feeds the bearing surface with some 600 grit sand paper so the oil flows well and theres no edges to cause bearing wear issues or crud left from the process that would get embedded in the bearings.

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Advantage: revised oiling system, taller lifter bores adds lifter stability, one pc seal (although, can't really say I ever had 2pc seal leaks using modern seals), all are 4 bolt main

Disadvantages: thinner decks, thinner cylinder walls (cylinder prep is very important on these, absoluely have to plate hone), fewer pan choices, fewer crank choices, no fuel pump boss for mech pump on early blocks. I prefer to use head studs on a performance GenVI 454, but block has to be plate honed with studs installed. Might be able to go back and hit the cylinders with a couple passes if converting to studs, need to check with the machine shop on that. Not a necessity, more of a precaution.

502 block doesn't seem to have the same limits on cylinder walls or decks as the cylinders are siamesed and the head bolt holes are blind so not subject to corrosion. Totally different animal but GenVI Sportsman block is as beefy as they get: .400" cylinder walls at 4.500" bores, splayed main caps, siamese bores, thick decks, higher strength iron. This is where it gets crazy. Using the 800.00 finish machined block as a baseline, that's a pretty good deal, going rate around here is 1100.00-1200.00 for a finished block. I was able to get into the Sportsman block to build a 540" for 2200.00 finished. Crank/rods/pistons are a wash 496 or 540. You can see how it gets out of hand fast. From a performance standpoint, any of those
blocks you listed will do. Just take a good look at the head bolt holes on that GenVI, especially the ones where the dowels are located, as these have couple less threads. No biggie to fix those with a helicoil though if need be. Again, not a necessity just a precaution. "

related links and info
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3510X/

http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/in ... parent=277

obviously you'll want to verify it fits before ordering

http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/in ... parent=277

http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/in ... parent=277

http://www.milodon.com/

http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/store/oilpans.html

http://moroso.com/catalog/categorybrows ... Code=11000

http://www.hamburgersperformance.com/

http://www.stefs.com/stefsindex.htm
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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