testing a chevy oil pump



testing a chevy oil pump

Postby grumpyvette » February 28th, 2012, 5:12 pm

PLEASE READ THE LINKS FIRST
viewtopic.php?f=54&t=3536

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/cc ... ewall.html

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/pdf/Oil_Pumps_106.pdf

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=120&p=150#p150

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... 67591_0_0_

Image
Image
Image
Image
failure to use the correct oil pump,mounting stud, bolt or nut or carefully check clearances when mounting an oil pump can cause problems
Image
Image
ONE RATHER COMMON MISTAKE IS USING THE WRONG OIL PUMP STUD OR BOLT TO MOUNT THE OIL PUMP AS IF EITHER EXTENDS THRU THE REAR MAIN CAP IT CAN AND WILL BIND ON THE BEARING AND LOCK OR RESTRICT, SMOOTH ROTATION
to build a tester ID have the oil pump exit bolt to a flat plate epoxied or bolted to the underside of the ammo can lid and have two 1/4" 24 thread bolts that index the oil pump to center on the oil pump exit port from the top side of the ammo can cover and use a threaded stud to clamp the oil pump in place just as its secured to the rear main cap but with a large nut and washer during testing a larger 1/4" NPT centered hole the gauge screws into and then have a spare oil pump drive shaft perfectly lined up with the oil pump drive, ID braze a washer to it about 1/2 way up the shaft and drill the hole thru the ammo can lid and 1/2" thick aluminum reinforcing plate that just allowed the oil pump drive shaft to easily slide thru, and of course the access hole will need to be a oval because ID use the tool to test both 4 and 5 bolt pumps which have the same mount but very slightly different dimensions ,the washer on the drive shaft would prevent the drive shaft from being mis-placed when not in use.
During testing the bye-pass circuit in the oil pump should open, allowing high pressure oil to flow back to the feed or low pressure side of the oil pump, and limit oil increases,in pressure too either about 60-65psi or 65-70psi depending on the resistance of the bye-pass spring selected
the ammo can would hold a few quarts of cheap 10w30 oil to test with and the pump to be tested is simply lowered into the oil as the lids closed and locked in place, the oil can,t go anyplace so the gauge maxes out when the oil pumps relief bye-pass opens telling you almost instantly what the bye-pass pressure is all you need is a drill to spin the oil pump drive a few hundred RPM as oils not compressible and your not feeding any bearing clearances it will fill and max out readily at low rpms


the holes would be very similar to the hole locations circled in green here, with a 4th hole for the drive to the pump
Image
Image

Image
this is the more common SBC chevy design
Image

this is the more common BBC chevy design
Image
I can easily see where a bit of welder skill and time and use of a drill press, some fabrication time, and you could easily convert a $10 ,50 cal ammo can and a 4" x 10" rectangle of 1/2" thick aluminum plate and a $15 pressure gauge in to a very effective and low cost oil pump test tool, for under $35, similar in concept to this picture below from the video link

http://www.summitracing.com/search?keyword=5556F&dds=1
(chevy small block oil pump bye-pass springs)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-77060
(chevy big block oil pump bye-pass springs)

Image

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techa ... index.html

http://www.titanspeed.com/content/pump/ ... est01.html

http://www.titanspeed.com/Titan%20Comparison.pdf

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3qsQU6grvc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8f2fcbTh5yw

http://www.ehow.com/video_5225928_check ... p-bad.html
"You might find yourself driving one day and notice that your oil pressure light is flickering at you and wonder to yourself, "How do I tell if my oil pump is bad?" Well, it's not always that easy to tell. Generally one of the first things that you ought to do is to check the basics. First off check your oil level; actually you take out the dip stick and make sure that the level is proper. Oil level that is either too low or for that matter too high can cause the oil pressure to be low which could cause the light to come on. The next step would be to determine if there is a problem with whatever turns the light on itself. Most cars use an oil pressure sender or an oil pressure switch and this is a typical oil pressure switch and it's possible that the problem that you're having is only related to a problem with the switch itself. So we really need to find out first off what's the truth. It's possible that the center could be aligned to us. So what we need to do first off is to actually take a wrench and remove the old pressure sender and then with the proper adapters, actually install a manual oil pressure gage and take a reading as to find out what the real oil pressure is. Low gage readings or light being on will normally occur; this, this; an oil, okay, an oil pressure light coming on or a low reading on your dash gage is cause typically with one of these senders senses less than two pounds per square inch. But it can also happen if the internal diaphragm leaks; so that's why we're going to hook up a, an oil pressure gage to find out what their pressure really is. Once the gage is installed, we have to run the engine of full engine operating temperature and see what happens with the pressure at idle and a cruising RPM. So what we'll do is we'll do that and see if the pressure is indeed low. If the pressure still actually shows to be low, we do investigate other things. In order to check the oil pump itself, it maybe necessary to remove the engine oil pan or other components to gain access. Here we have one that's already been removed from a vehicle and I'll remove the plate so we can actually see the popping gears on the inside. The way that the oil is pop is by through the rotation of these gears causing the chambers to expand and then compress in order to cause a popping action of the oil. The test that we do in here are, are two folds. First off we'll do things like measure using a straight edge; the clearance in between the surface and the gears, compare that to specifications and we'll also measure the clearance in between the gears. If either of these things are find to be excessive then the pump must be replaced."

Image

Image

Image

Image
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

User avatar
Site Admin
Site Admin
 
Posts: 14105
Joined: September 14th, 2008, 1:40 pm
Location: florida

Return to Oil and Lube Systems

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest