I'm not sure if this was mentioned above but if you are using a water cooled tig torch, make SURE that the pump for the liquid is turned on BEFORE you start welding. I know one guy that destroyed 3 torches in one day by not turning on what needed to be, that was a bad day for him!

From what I've read, most new water cooled tig setups have some sort of 'auto-on' feature, I figured it's still worth mentioning however.

GREAT ADVICE!
I know Ive sure started too start a TIG arc, and only then REMEMBERED to turn on the torch coolant pump, a few times, I put a plastic tape STICKER on the welder torch to remind me!
those label makers that spit out plastic tape labels sure come in handy in the shop!


both welding types (MIG/TIG) SHOULD be used with a different shield gas for the different metals, (STAINLESS vs ALUMINUM)
MIG obviously requires a different wire, and in most cases a different mig spool gun for aluminum, those are usually small 5 lb rolls the stainless feeds from the welder in 30-40 lb rolls that cost nearly $200


http://www.millerwelds.com/education/te ... setup.html

http://www.millerwelds.com/education/te ... _tips.html

tig requires a different filler rod (10 lb packs about $60)and electrode and shield gas .($240 or so to own) cheaper to rent but theres a deposit required

your local miller welder supply will be THRILLED to point out the EXTRA stuff you'll need, example on my miller 252 it requires a different spool gun for aluminum and that alone is $1000, add the wire and ideally a different tank of shield gas adds an additional $340 or so

keep in mind mig basically squirts wire that melts as it grounds to the project, you don,t get heat or an arc without metal wire also
TIG is basically an electric arc you control with filler rods you dab and melt as you control both the feed of the fill rod rate and the heat of the arc and the duration the heat stays at any one point, migs generally faster once you get the settings correct and the skill to use it, tigs generally more precise and easier to hide or correct mistakes made on the first pass but it takes more skill to master and the equipments more expensive, but with TIG you only add fill rod or heat as you need either , and at the rate you need either one and you can go back and remelt things without adding fill rod, YOUR in total control with TIG.
If you've used an oxy-acetylene torch to weld TIG is similar you just have an electric arc replacing the flame, and electric arc that's usually controlled with a foot pedal.

I just bought a second mig welder, a Millermatic 180, based on Grumpys experience/advice. A great unit and very easy to use. Much higher quality than my old Century 110v/110a unit. It's gonna get a work-out on the '72 Chevelle rust bucket I bought a few weeks ago.

congrats on the purchase of a tool you'll soon find you wonder how you ever got along without!


I live on a pension,so I know all about money being tight but if your reading thru this thread and looking for a first welder don,t shop on price! SHOP FOR WHAT THE WELDER CAN DO! AND FIGURE OUT WHAT YOU NEED AND HOW TO AFFORD IT!
don,t think of buying a 90-100 amp flux core welder, its basically wasted money as its extremely limited in its capacity
your far better off saving and waiting until you can get a 140-180 amp name brand mig welder in most cases.the deference in what they can do is amazing

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/ ... _200306073

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/millermatic_140_autoset/

this will do a great deal but its best on exhaust and body panel work




http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/millermatic_180_autoset/
probably the best compromise between price and capacity for most car guys, it will do 90% of car welding


http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/millermatic_212_autoset/


this is an excellent shop mig, that will do almost anything

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/millermatic_252/

I HATE finding out Im limited by tools so I bought this for the personal shop
(took me almost two years of doing odd side work and dropping the proceeds into the welder fund)

LINCOLN HAS DECENT STUFF ALSO, JUST KNOW WHAT YOUR LOOKING AT BEFORE SPENDING CASH!

http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Catalo ... ocale=1033


http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledg ... xcored.asp

IM really curious, the pictures not clear enough to be sure so Ill ask,
WHICH WELDER DID YOU USE, (mig/tig)
AND WHAT WAS THE AMP SETTINGS
AND MIG WIRE SIZE OR TIG FILL ROD USED,
AND GAS FLOW SETTINGS,
TYPE OF GAS USED FOR SHIELDING
did you use a stainless brush for weld prep
because THAT appears to be a nice aluminum weld job



Better pic for ya Grumpy

Miller Dynasty tig of coarse
amp setting changes on thickness
3/ 32 rod
about 30-35 on the gas
argon
as for prep use ss brush, different scrapers that are like knives and a deburring tool made for aluminum on cast peices. I think it will hold.

OK lots of choices and experience here.

I would Love to learn how to weld to a point where i could start making things and selling them. For me, to finish my car i need body panel repair, aluminum welding, stainless welding (exhaust) chromoly and mild steel welding. from what i have read here i should invest in a Tig and learn how to use it.

Are there TIG machines out there that are able to plug in to normal house outlet? or is 220V mandatory. that's another consideration in the investment as i don't have 220 in the garage (yet) not even sure how much it would cost to have it installed.

I have read thru several post sorry if i missed the post that answers my questions exactly. there is alot of info here.

since IM not there I can,t tell you how hard it will be to get 220 volt service installed in your shop but its USUALLY not all that hard to do if you have the service /fuse panel in the garage now



http://www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/diversion_165/

http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2 ... ode=500425

220 volt


http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Catalo ... spx?p=2512

http://www.htpweld.com/products/tig_welders/tig160.html
110 and 220 volt

well i found a TIG. its a miller 180. its about 3 years old, the chassis guy that is finishing my car is closing his shop and moving to a smaller space and therfore doesnt need the 5 welders he has now ;>

got it for 1k with pedal, torch and gage. only has about 50 hours of use. Anything i sould be aware or or lookout for on this welder???

sounds like a very good deal!
please post pictures/details, model etc.
don,t forget, youll NEED the torch tips, electrodes and shield gas tank and gauges, torch, and every filler rod you can scrounge
plus ASK for a DEMO on some ALUMINUM, and brief instruction doing a sample weld
and buy a auto darkening helmet

viewtopic.php?f=60&t=1669

http://store.cyberweld.com/wetigto.html

http://store.cyberweld.com/tigparts.html

http://store.cyberweld.com/autdarwelhel.html

viewtopic.php?f=60&t=1108

viewtopic.php?f=60&t=250

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/im ... kills/tig/

Cool thanks. Allready asked for all teh stuff to be included and he even vollenteered some setup and demo time ;>


He is the guy that finished my chassis and from the looks of his welds he knows what he is doing. Now i just have to get 220 in the garage ;> the wife said no to welding in the laundry room upstairs


BTW this site is awesome. lots of good info.