It is currently January 19th, 2021, 6:17 am
grumpyvette wrote:I'm impressed with both the projects potential and your skill with a camera, for some unknown reason I never seem to get really clear detailed photos when I'm behind the camera.
theres ALWAYS ways to improve any combo,and I,d point that out here, it will take you a few hours but read thru these links and sub links, Ill post, but doing that will save you months and hundreds of dollars, keep in mind you will be building a high performance street/strip engine NOT a race car engine so you won,t want to concentrate on peak hp, but on durability and an impressive mid range and upper mid range power band. One of the huge secrets that gets over looked or ignored by a great many guys building their first few engine combos is that your not generally going to want to build an engine to maximize peak power, but if you have experience, you,ll spend a good deal more time and effort, in carefully selecting components to match the intended application. You'll concentrate on anvil like durability and a wide impressive torque curve in a useable rpm band.
THERES A HUGE DIFFERENCE IN THE WHOLE ARCHITECTURE REQUIRED BETWEEN A GREAT STREET/STRIP ENGINE, and an ALL OUT RACE ENGINE
we will discuss your options and related procedures, at each point and the logical route to take to build a performance engine matching your application.
starting with a DART aftermarket block is a GREAT first step as that blocks far stronger than OEM 350-400 small block castings.
keep in mind your goal in building a good street/strip engine is not to produce the max possible horse power, but too produce a DURABLE low maintenance combo that will produce far more power than a stock engine and require minimal maintenance, and not require constant tuning and adjustments.
you should be able to put together a 383-406 SBC that produces 450-500 hp yet still has decent drive-ability characteristics.
remember your concentrating on a high durability low maintenance combo that has impressive torque and operates in the rpm band you can effectively use on the street, you won,t be building a true race engine here
now it will take you several hours too a few days, or longer to read these links and sub links but it will provide a huge back ground base of info to work with and in the long run save you a good deal of cash and wasted effort
now it will take you several hours too a few days, or longer to read these links and sub links but it will provide a huge back ground base of info to work with and in the long run save you a good deal of cash and wasted effort
jteu2002 wrote:nearly the same setup as i got at home for nearly one year and still everything is boxed (only the lifters they are submerged in oil ) keep us posted on every thing you do with pics and all the info so i can at last start building mine good luck with the build
Indycars wrote:What's keeping you from getting started???jteu2002 wrote:nearly the same setup as i got at home for nearly one year and still everything is boxed (only the lifters they are submerged in oil ) keep us posted on every thing you do with pics and all the info so i can at last start building mine good luck with the build
I plan on updating with pictures as I go along, but it's going to be next spring or maybe summer before I'm done and ready to drive. The car needs some attention also, so I'm not just working on the engine.
grumpyvette wrote: its refreshing to see someone take a bit of time to clean up the casting flash and smooth and clean out a block before assembly.
I see many guys make the huge mistake of assuming the casting is ready to assembly as it comes out of the crate!
Id suggest a good cleaning, and careful inspection, and rodding out the internal oil passages,with a rifle bore brush and installing brass freeze plugs ,with good sealant, plus installing new cam bearings, and beveling all the oil feed hole entrances and exits to the bearings a bit to smooth flow and use of an epoxy based paint to seal the blocks micro pores before assembly is advised.![/color][/size]
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