bellhousings and correctly installing bellhousings



bellhousings and correctly installing bellhousings

Postby grumpyvette » October 24th, 2008, 5:20 pm

YES ITS REALLY WORTH THE TIME AND EFFORT TO READ THRU THE SUB LINKED INFO


Default SBC Flywheel & Flexplate part numbers

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142525

Small Block Chevy Flywheel Part Numbers
Part # DIA. Teeth Comments
3991406 Flywheel, LW Nodular Iron for HD 10.5" Clutch
3991469 14" 168 two-piece seal, internally balanced
3986394 14" 168 400 External balance, two-piece seal
10105832 14" 168 86-later, one-piece rear seal, ext. balance
14088671 12.75" 153 86-later, one piece rear seal, int. balance
14085720 12.75" 153 Lightweight (15 lbs.), nodular iron, two-piece seal, int bal Will work with a clutch diameter of 10.4" only. Crank flange bolt pattern is 3.58". Will work with a clutch diameter of 10.4" OR 11.0". Crank flange bolt pattern is 3.0"
14088646 12.75" 153 86-up, Lightweight (15 lbs.), nodular iron, one-piece rear seal, ext bal
14088648 14" 168 86-up, one-piece rear seal, ext. balance
14088650 12.75" 153 86-up, one-piece rear seal, ext balance Will work with a clutch diameter of 10.4" only. Crank flange bolt pattern is 3.0"
10174482 89-up with six-speed m/t, requires starter (10455709)
Common clutch sizes are: 10.4", 11.0", and 11.85". Some flywheels are drilled for two different clutch patterns.
12.75" are usually 153 tooth and the other larger 14" diam. are 168 tooth flywheel or flex plate designs, the larger 14"/168 tooth designs fit the much stronger 11" clutches.... obviously the 14" can use a larger clutch, but require a larger bell housing that is why some stock bell housings won,t fit the larger fly wheels and of course the starter used must match


Small Block Chevy Flexplate Part Numbers
Part # DIA. Teeth Comments
471529 12.75" 153 Two-piece seal blocks, int balance
471578 14" 168 400 ext. bal, two-piece rear seal
471598 14" 168 Two-piece seal blocks, internal balance
10128412 12.75" 153 86-up, one-piece rear seal ext. balance
10128413 14" 168 86-up, one-piece seal, extra thick, HD, ext bal
10128414 14" 168 86-96, one-piece rear seal, ext. balance
14088761 14" 168 89-up 350 HO, one-piece rear seal, ext. bal.
14088765 12.75" 153 86-up, one-piece rear seal, ext. bal.
14088767 14" 168 89-up 350 HO, one-piece rear seal, HD, ext. bal
WATCH THE VIDEOS , AND READ THRU THE LINKS AND TAKE A FEW NOTES
http://www.lakewoodindustries.com/Catal ... 74437G.pdf

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... TdTBq6-EI#!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3sTdTBq6 ... e=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rzc2tmFKUhI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Woh-fS3DJA

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=584&p=21690&hilit=bell+housing#p21690

http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/dowels.html

http://www.hotrod.com/news/1405-postage-paid-may-2014/

http://www.colemanracing.com/Alignment- ... P4573.aspx
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http://www.camaros.org/bellhousings.shtml
http://www.camaros.org/bellhousings.shtml
http://www.browellbellhousing.com/components.html
)to get the old rusted bell housing alignment pins loose heat them with a propane torch for about 2 minutes then spray the pins with freeze spray for a minimum of 8-9 seconds with
http://www.loctitefreezeandrelease.com/
Image
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Freeze-Re ... B001VXU474
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LAK-15907/?rtype=10
after rapid heat and cool cycles, they should easily twist out with vise grips or punch out with a hammer and drift. the new pins use locking expansion allen key locks, once correctly indexed
Image
Due to manufacturers’ machining tolerances of engine blocks in relationship to dowel pin location, it is quite possible for
the crankshaft centerline and bellhousing bore to be misaligned. With the transmission installed in a misaligned condition,
several problems can occur, such as pilot bearing and main shaft bearing wear, difficulty in shifting, and in extreme cases
breakage of transmission gears and cases. While most housings will fall within the allowable limits, it is good insurance to
check for register bore runout whenever any housing or engine block is installed. Most factory service manuals will outline
the checking procedure, but will not give correctional measures necessary to ensure trouble-free standard transmission
operation, short of trial and error with switching of various O.E. housings.
NOTE: ADJUSTABLE DOWELS ARE USED TO DIAL IN BELLHOUSINGS BECAUSE THE ENGINE BLOCKS CASTED FROM THE
OEM FACTORY CAN BE OUT OF TOLERANCE. SO, YOU WILL NEED TO ALIGN ENGINE AND BELLHOUSING.
Offset dowel pins are available from Lakewood Industries to ensure correct adapter housing installation. For checking, you
will need a dial indicator (preferably
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Remove clutch assembly from flywheel and install bellhousing on engine block.
(It is easier when you leave the clutch assembly off the flywheel.)
2. Install dial indicator base on the flywheel and adjust plunger to contact the register
bore of the housing. (See photo.)
3. Rotate the flywheel and note indicator reading. Misalignment is one-half of the
indicator reading (maximum allowable is .005”).
4. To correct off-center condition, select the offset dowel pin pair that is closest to onehalf
of the indicator reading. (i.e., if reading is .016”, 1/2R=.008” use .007” dowels.
If reading is .024”, 1/2R=.012” use .014” dowels).
5. Remove stock dowel pins by driving from back side or pulling with gripper
pliers.
6. Clean engine block dowel holes and coat lightly with lubricant.
7. Lubricate dowel pins and install in block. The slot in the dowel pins indicates the
direction of maximum offset. They should be installed parallel to one another,
and in pairs (both .007” or both .014” and .021”).
8. Install and tighten bellhousing securely. Remount the dial indicator and recheck
the register bore runout (Repeat step 3).
9. To make small corrections or adjustments to the alignment, you will need to
remove the bellhousing and drive the offset dowels out of the block. Reposition
the dowels using the slot as a reference point and re-install. Re-check register
bore run-out. Repeat this procedure until the register bore is within lim

clutch fork stud:
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/shield.html

http://www.lakewoodindustries.com/pdf/b ... cedure.pdf

http://www.priveye.com/images/lakewood.htm

http://www.usaperform.com/clutches-bell ... c-468.html

http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/files/G ... 15-09A.pdf

http://www.circletrack.com/drivetrainte ... index.html

http://www.quicktimeinc.com/products.html#chevy

http://www.priveye.com/images/lakewood.htm

http://andysgd427.blogspot.com/2009/08/ ... nment.html

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/add ... ewall.html

http://www.camaros.org/bellhousings.shtml

viewtopic.php?f=39&t=1122&hilit=bellhousing

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=1042&p=1969#p1969

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LAK-15907/

http://www.camaros.org/bellhousings.shtml

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=447

980300 UNIVERSAL TRANSMISSION BLANKET SFI APPROVED $94.43 (http://www.comteck.com/~trans/adapter_plates.htm ) (kevlar scatter shield, the same thing bullet proof vests are made of)

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http://www.browellbellhousing.com/pages ... -page.html

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... 5&x=27&y=9

Lakewood bellhousing is about $329. This one from Speedway is $249.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/545,36_Explosion-Proof-Chevy-Bellhousing-with-Plate.html#feedback
keep in mind you want a SFI BILLET flywheel and a BLOW-PROOF BELL HOUSING
Image


"Lakewood Bellhousings have been tested and meet or exceed S.F.I. Spec. 6.1, when used with approved block plate. Lakewood Bellhousings are designed to contain a clutch or flywheel explosion, bellhousings include the block plate and are marked with an S.F.I. Spec. 6.1 serial number " and have a certification label that some tracks require


I think thats a CHINESE COPY, I don,t see it advertised as MEETING the S.F.I. Spec 6.1 which MIGHT mean its not up to the strength, thickness or temper and heat treatment or same level of dimensional tollerance control, its obviously better than the stock aluminum but it might not be nearly as strong as the certified bell housing


BTW
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_24568_-1
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=LAK%2D15000&N=700+4294822099+115&autoview=sku
theres DOZENS of differant models , SIZES ETC. but LAKEWOODS about the best known brand and JEGS AND SUMMIT HAVE THEM

most of us old timers have seen what happends to a car when a flywheel/clutch blows and Ive seen a chunk of flywheel or clutch take the windshield and dash right out of a 283/57 chevy so if you plan on walking around in your old age without prosthesis legs use a lakewood houseing, youll find that the cost is very small compared to new legs. btw running your fuel lines where the frame protects them, haveing the electric fuel pump with a minimal oil pressure cut on pressure switch and carrying a 10lb co2 extinguisher is also a good idea,at least that way if the engine/flywheel blows you don,t have gas continuing to pump out everywhare from cut fuel lines.look here,
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=2141&prmenbr=361


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Grumpy, funny you should mention that. 20 years ago a friends brother had th ebody and paint done on his 57 (BRIGHT ORANGE) and had a hot 283 in the car with a Muncie.

He was out on the highway running it hard and the flywheel let go (stock piece, I'd bet) and it took out the windshield, cowl, firewall, crushed the frame on each side, cut the headers as if they were paper, and left a nice hole in the pavement. Yep. Stock bellhousing.

I have the Lakewood in my Z and it was hardly a problem fitting it. I did cut the flange off of about 6" of the bottom portion, parallel with the ground, for ground clearance (I know that killed the SFI rating, but it's still alot safer than an AL bellhousing) and had to just slightly bump the tunnel in one area on the passenger side to make some clearance.
Image

Image

http://www.jegs.com/p/J-W-Performance/J ... 7/10002/-1
you TH350 and TH400 guys need this also

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=447&p=5542&hilit=lakewood&sid=5b1f4d4cbc68b8f1722cca315fc912de#p5542

keep in mind a SFI SCATTER SHIELD to protect your feet is almost mandatory, on a high performance engine combo
watch THESE (found on youtube)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDbrvUtN ... r_embedded


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HBLTMmd39Jg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZhLDAc_H-xc&NR=1

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=2596&p=6695&hilit=bell+housing#p6695

383RAM posted this bit of info
"Most factory stuff is usually close enough for factory parts. When you start upgrading power and clutches, it would be foolish not to check it. My one old Ansen steel bellhousing was .062 out of spec. I used the Lakwood extra long dowel pins with weld on sleeves to straighten it out. It requires all the mounting holes to be hoged out or enlongated. Then you cemter the housing and tack weld the sleeves to the bellhousing.

You have to remember, the steel housings are stamped rather than having a casting machined like the stock aluminum bellhousing. The stampings by nature are going to be off a little more. Just like a stamped quarter panel, no two are exacrtly alike.


BTW, some of the better known converter companies really prefer you dial in your automatic trans case too. I have done a couple of them, but that requires the trans to be disassembled to dial in off the front pump flange. "
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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Re: bellhousings

Postby grumpyvette » October 27th, 2008, 10:23 pm

http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/video ... ent-ls.wmv

watch this (found on youtube)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDbrvUtN ... r_embedded

how to properly align your bell housing
you might be astounded at what carefully reading thru links and sub links will do for your skill level, and the resulting engine and drive line durability issues,, rather than just winging it without facts, yes its easier to just bolt things together and drive away,but having an understanding of how the process is done correctly,and why you should take the effort helps reduce problems and parts breakage issues. youll need a dial indicator and adjustable dowels that allow you to properly move and locate the drive spline on the trans with the crank center-line, failure to take the time and effort to get things properly aligned tends to result in vibrations,rapid parts wear and parts failures
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http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... umber=5646

http://www.circletrack.com/drivetrainte ... index.html

http://www.lakewoodindustries.com/pdf/74437G.pdf

http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/dowels.html

http://www.camaros.org/bellhousings.shtml

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LAK-15907/

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... number=623

http://www.quicktimeinc.com/products.html#chevy

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HAY-10-130/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAM-1501/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTF-700120/

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... toview=sku

don,t forget to install a pilot bearing in the rear of the crank too support the front of the transmission splined input shaft, btw you remove the old one "IF" it needs to be replaced by packing the area behind and inside it with grease and hydraulically lifting it out by use of a wood dowel driven into its center area with a mallet, the displaced grease forces the bearing up and out

http://www.autobarn.net/lis55500.html
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THERE ARE TOOLS TO REMOVE PILOT BEARINGS BUT THE HYDRAULIC GREASE METHOD WORKS IF YOU DON,T HAVE ONE
[grumpy?]how do get the grease behind the bearing? [/quote]
thru the center hole the tip of the splined trans shaft rides in
Image


careful measurement and centering the input shaft is critical
Image
in some cases an adapter ring is required to match a different transmission to a bell housing
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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Re: bellhousings and correctly installing bellhousings

Postby grumpyvette » December 12th, 2010, 9:24 am

Chevrolet Passenger Car Clutch Housings (Bell housings)
265-350 cid V-8
GM Part No. Identification No. Year Model
3755343 3733365 55-57Pass. (8-cyl)
3785643 3779552 60-61Pass. (8-cyl exc. Sp H/Per)
62Pass. (383. 327 exc. H/Per
3785644(aluminum) 3779553 62Pass. w/H/Per (327)
3788419 3788421 63Pass.

3858403 3840383 64-67Pass. (283. 327 usually w/10.4" exc. HD Clutch)

65-67Chevelle (283 exc. H D Clutch
67-69 All (302)
68Pass. (307),
Chevy (307),
Chevelle (307 exc. H D clutch)
70-73 All (307)
64-69Pass. w/reg. fuel
65-68Chevelle (327 exc. H D Clutch)
67-68Camaro (327)
69Chevy, Chevelle, Camaro w/reg. fuel (327)
69Pass. (350 w/ reg. fuel exc. H D clutch)
69 Chevy, Chevelle, Camaro, w/reg. fuel (350)

3849307 3849309 64-67Chevy (283, 327)
3899621 (usually w/11" clutch)

66-67 All (283) w/H D clutch
67-70All (350 exc. Sp/ Per
68 All (307) w/H D clutch
70 All Sp. H/Per (350)
71-75All (350)

The ID Numbers are stamped on the inside of the housing.




Chevrolet Passenger Car Starting Motors
265-350 cid V-8, Manual Transmission

GM Part No. Identification No. Year Model

n/a stamped 1107627-1107645 55-56 All Pass. (265)

n/a stamped 11076 60-64-964-889-892 57-61 Pass. (265-283)

1108361 stamped 1107320-1108361 63-64Pass. (327)
(cyl. block mounting) 65-67 Pass. Chevy, Chevelle (327)
67Camaro (exc. 350)
68Pass. (327 exc. H D clutch)
68Chevy, Chevelle (327)
69Chevy (350)
69Chevy, Chevelle, Camaro
(4-bbl w/reg. fuel 350)
1108366 stamped 1108365-66-67-8512 62-64Chevy, Chevelle
(cyl. block mounting) 63-64Pass. (283)
65-67Chevy, Chevelle, Camaro (exc. 327)
65-67Pass. (283 exc. H D clutch)
68-69Pass. (307, 327 exc H D clutch)
68Chevelle (exc. H D clutch)
68-69Camaro (exc. 350)
70-73All (307)

1108788 70-75Nova, Chevelle, Camaro (8-cyl.)
The Starter ID Numbers are stamped on the side of the gear housing.
__________________

Small Block Chevrolet V-8
Clutch Housing-Flywheel- Starter Housing
Combinations
Clutch Housing Flywheel Starter numbers

265/283cid (1955-62)
3755343 3739423 1107627-45
3785643 3998281 1107660-64

283cid (1963-67)
3788419 3791022 1108366
3858403 3973452 1108366
3849307 3973452 1108366

302cid (1967-69)
3858403 3973452 1108361

307cid (1968-73)
3858403 3973452 1108366

327cid (1962-69)
3785643 3739423 1108366
3785644 3739423 1108366
3788419 3791022 1108361
3848403 3973452 1108361
3849307 3973452 1108361

350cid
(1967-75)
3958403 3998281 1108361
3899621 3998281 1108788

Chevrolet Passenger Car flywheels
265-350cid V-8, Manual Transmission

GM Part No. Identification No. Year Model

3739423 w/10" coil & diaphragm spring clutch
55 8-cyl exc. H D clutch 4-bbl


(11 5/8" bolt circle) cast 3829004
56Pass. w/2-bbl (exc. H D clutch)
56 Pass. w/4 bbl.
56-58Pass. (283 exc. H D clutch dual 4-bbl F. I
w/4-spd)
59-61Pass. (283 exc. o/d)
62Pass. (8-cyl)

3998281w/11" coil spring clutch (12 5/8" bolt
circle) solid type
55-56Pass. w/CAC (8 cyl)
55-56Pass. w/4-bbl
57Pass. (exc. 4-bbl, dual 4-bbl)
58Pass. w/H D clutch (283 exc. 4-bbl, F.I. o/d)
58-61Pass. w/o/d (283)
66-68Pass. w/H D clutch (327)
67-69Chevelle w/H D clutch (327)
67Chevelle w/H D clutch (283)
67-69Camaro, Chevy (350)
69Pass. (350)
70All w/4-bbl (350)
70-74All w/Sp H Per. (350)

3791022 solid type (cast 3791021)
63-64Pass. (283, 327 exc. H D clutch)

3973452 solid type, as above
64-67 All (283 exc. H D clutch)
66-67Pass. w/H D clutch (283)
64-68All (327 exc. H D clutch)
67-69All (302)
69 Pass. w/reg. fuel (327, 350)

3986390
70-72All w/2-bbl. (350)
71Chevelle w/4-bbl (350 exc. Monte Carlo)
73-74All (350 exc. Sp H/Per.)
75Nova, Camaro (350)
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: bellhousings and correctly installing bellhousings

Postby grumpyvette » February 24th, 2012, 8:49 am

Image
Image
Image
Image

more pictures showing the results of a STOCK STYLE , NON SFI RATED flywheel coming apart , luckily this guy had the foresight to use a blow proof bell housing so he only lost an engine not his feet, but even with the blow proof bell housing look at the damage that resulted
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: bellhousings and correctly installing bellhousings

Postby bytor » April 4th, 2012, 9:38 pm

May be a silly question but, will the stock bellhousing inspection plate fit an aftermarket bellhousing like a Lakewood 15000?
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Re: bellhousings and correctly installing bellhousings

Postby grumpyvette » April 5th, 2012, 7:31 am

bytor wrote:May be a silly question but, will the stock bellhousing inspection plate fit an aftermarket bell housing like a Lakewood 15000?

Image

theres NO CHANCE simply because , a properly installed blow proof housings come with block saver plates, that cover that area, the block saver plate forms the front facing support wall containing the clutch and protecting the block, and strengthening the bell housing during and clutch or flywheel failure, and helps contain potential shrapnel

Image
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: bellhousings and correctly installing bellhousings

Postby mathd » April 5th, 2012, 9:50 am

My lakewood 15000 came with the block saver plate in the box.
Mathieu
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Re: bellhousings and correctly installing bellhousings

Postby bytor » September 20th, 2012, 2:52 pm

So, kind of going back and forth with the whole SFI approved bellhousing vs. stock thing. I will be running a Ram billet SFI approved flywheel and Ram Powergrip clutch that supposedly “meets SFI specifications”. So is a SFI bellhousing really necessary for a car that will never run slicks and see only a few runs down the quarter mile?
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Re: bellhousings and correctly installing bellhousings

Postby grumpyvette » September 20th, 2012, 3:07 pm

bytor wrote:So, kind of going back and forth with the whole SFI approved bellhousing vs. stock thing. I will be running a Ram billet SFI approved flywheel and Ram Powergrip clutch that supposedly “meets SFI specifications”. So is a SFI bellhousing really necessary for a car that will never run slicks and see only a few runs down the quarter mile?


yes IM all too aware most of us are operating on very limited funds , Its taken me 7 years so far to accumulate less than 2/3rds of the parts I need for my own planed engine swap, but the bottom line is you can slap together cheap parts or you can build something correctly, with good parts the difference once your done is huge, and in many cases the result of cheap parts is a dangerous car or one thats not nearly as fast, or safe as it could be THOSE ARE YOUR FEET, HAVING AN SFI CERTIFIED FLYWHEEL IS ONLY PART OF THE POTENTIAL PROBLEM,S CURE, BUT ITS HARDLY FOOL PROOF, THE PRESSURE PLATES IS JUST AS LIKELY TO EXPLODE, AS THE CLUTCH DISC OR PRESSURE PLATE OR FLYWHEEL AND DOES IT REALLY MATER THE ORIGINAL PART THAT EXPLODES AND CUTS YOUR FEET OFF......IF YOU VALUE YOUR FEET THE SFI FLYWHEEL, CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE AND BELL HOUSING WITH BLOCK PLATE ARE A GOOD IDEA
INSTALLING SFI RATED PARTS REDUCES THE CHANCES OF DAMAGE ITS NOT 100% A CURE
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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Re: bellhousings and correctly installing bellhousings

Postby bytor » September 21st, 2012, 7:28 am

grumpyvette wrote:yes IM all too aware most of us are operating on very limited funds , Its taken me 7 years so far to accumulate less than 2/3rds of the parts I need for my own planed engine swap, but the bottom line is you can slap together cheap parts or you can build something correctly, with good parts the difference once your done is huge, and in many cases the result of cheap parts is a dangerous car or one thats not nearly as fast, or safe as it could be [/color][/size] THOSE ARE YOUR FEET, HAVING AN SFI CERTIFIED FLYWHEEL IS ONLY PART OF THE POTENTIAL PROBLEM,S CURE, BUT ITS HARDLY FOOL PROOF, THE PRESSURE PLATES IS JUST AS LIKELY TO EXPLODE, AS THE CLUTCH DISC OR PRESSURE PLATE OR FLYWHEEL AND DOES IT REALLY MATER THE ORIGINAL PART THAT EXPLODES AND CUTS YOUR FEET OFF......IF YOU VALUE YOUR FEET THE SFI FLYWHEEL, CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE AND BELL HOUSING WITH BLOCK PLATE ARE A GOOD IDEA INSTALLING SFI RATED PARTS


From a budget prospective I had planned on using one from the beginning. Being a new to this, I just started second guessing myself and wondering if I was over doing it. Its cheap insurance and I don’t intend to drive the car conservatively either so decision made, SFI bellhousing it is.

'Looking forward to a few of those 60mph rolling burnouts.' As always, thanks for the guidance and prospective.
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Re: bellhousings and correctly installing bellhousings

Postby bytor » September 21st, 2012, 10:50 am

Sharing some additional bellhousing install and alignment instructions I stumbled across.

BellHousingAlign-1.jpg

BellHousingAlign-2.jpg
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Re: bellhousings and correctly installing bellhousings

Postby Indycars » September 21st, 2012, 12:13 pm


Everything is this thread is for a manual trans, but what about an
automatic? How important is the alignment for an automatic and
how would the check be performed?

Rick
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Re: bellhousings and correctly installing bellhousings

Postby grumpyvette » June 3rd, 2014, 5:35 pm

a few tips on installing a manual trans behind an LS series engine in an older muscle car, and identifying that LS engine

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/14 ... r_ls_swap/

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/13 ... 8_engines/
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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