trans slip yoke problem?



trans slip yoke problem?

Postby grumpyvette » March 10th, 2013, 6:12 pm

" hey grumpy, I recently swapped from a TH350 to a 200r4 and I had to get a new transmission slip yoke because the old u-joint damaged the original slip yoke when it failed, now I purchase a used slip yoke that looked decent, at a salvage yard, but it won,t slide into the new transmission more than about 2" is this normal on a 200r4?"



Ok, first step is obviously to clean the parts up and carefully inspect the splines on both the transmission out-put shaft and the slip yoke, count the splines and look at them with a brite light, use a caliper to measure carefully. most slip yokes will slide in at least 3" so inspect your drive shaft splines on your slip yoke for crud or bent splines, since it slips in 2" chances are good the splines are either twisted or full of crud keeping it from slipping deeper
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[b]YES EVERY MECHANIC NEEDS< TO INVEST IN AND HAVE A FEW PRECISION MEASURING TOOLS

measure carefully and do your research CAREFULLY, and yes there are conversion u-joints where one side is lets say a different width,or bearing diam. or both so a drive shaft with say 1310 size u-joint can be used with a yoke that fits 1330 size u-joints or the bearings are a different diameter from the other perpendicular bearing set

http://theujointstore.com/cou.html

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/searc ... ion&mc=PRE

http://www.randysdriveshaft.com/combo.html

remember its common for some transmissions to have a master spline which mandates the slip yoke can only slide in indexed in one location to insure it goes in exactly the same way, its also fairly common for the splines to get twisted or filled with crud, so cleaning and careful inspection before assembly is mandatory.
be sure to grease the splines and be sure the rear seal is correct for the application.[/b]
slip yokes come in several diameters lengths, spline counts ETC.

http://www.actionmachineinc.com/slipyoke.aspx
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http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/Tra ... 0yoke.html
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TWISTED SPLINES
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KEY OR INDEXED SPLINE
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http://www.circletrack.com/drivetrainte ... _delivery/
I thought this diagram above covered yoke length requirements fairly well, obviously you might require a different length drive shaft or the yoke you use might need to be cut a bit shorter in some applications , but remember the yoke needs to move in and out freely without binding and the u-joint should be fairly close to the rear of the transmission as excessive extra yoke length provides leverage that can cause damage if a u-joint fails
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you obviously must know the spline count and shaft diameter, but these are fairly standard, the yoke length is not, you simply slide the yoke into the trans tail till it bottoms outdraw a line on the spined yokes outer surface,then back it out 1" and draw a new line,remove the yoke,there should ideally be about 3" or a bit more from the second line to the end of the yoke, insuring good spline contact , there should be less than 2" from the first mark drawn to the u-joint saddle, in an ideal world, but obviously your drive shaft u-joint spacing length comes into play here!
OK, if you don,t have a spline yoke to fit the trans yet ,just slide a strait stiff soda straw in between the spline shaft and the inner trans tail, measure the depth it will slide in and you can use that depth measurement, lets say it slides in 4.7", if so you want a spline yoke at least 3.5- 4"contacting the splines with 1" of possible movement without contact,or bottoming out in the trans, so about 5.5" would be ideal,so you could get 3.7" of spline engaged and 1.8" before the u-joint,would in theory contact the trans tail shaft, (yes it bottoms out in the trans before that could happen), lets say your choices are 3.5" and 7.5" 3.5" is too short
you would buy the 7.5" and have a machine shop cut it to the ideal length AFTER you measure the drive shaft length and spline engagement
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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Re: trans slip yoke problem?

Postby grumpyvette » September 9th, 2013, 2:03 pm

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=1025&p=2425&hilit=driveshaft#p2425

viewtopic.php?f=63&t=1348&p=2954&hilit=ballance#p2954

http://theujointstore.com/cou.html

http://www.maxchevy.com/tech/2008/iii_9 ... ion-1.html

http://www.powertrainindustries.com/cat ... =End+Yokes

http://www.northernautoparts.com/Produc ... uctId=2719

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/conversion-u-joint

http://www.circletrack.com/drivetrainte ... index.html

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pow-p ... /overview/

http://www.circletrack.com/drivetrainte ... index.html

http://www.tomsdifferentials.com/tomp.htm

http://www.powertrainindustries.com/cat ... ange+Yokes

http://www.powertrainindustries.com/cat ... pe=UJoints

http://www.markwilliams.com/driveshaftY ... goryID=128

http://www.jegs.com/p/Ford+Racing/757435/10002/-1

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/sitemap ... nsive.html

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/driv ... index.html

http://www.powertrainindustries.com/cat ... sion+Yokes

http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/yokeleak.htm

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... toview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... 5&x=22&y=9

http://www.quartermax.com/products.php?catID=164

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/driv ... to_03.html

Randy_W posted these links


http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techa ... index.html

http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/Automat ... onSwap.htm


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grumpy! I removed my u-joints on the drive shaft to replace them, now I don,t remember which end had the slip yoke on it ?



in almost every case Ive seen the longer tapper goes to the trans

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IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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Re: trans slip yoke problem?

Postby grumpyvette » December 5th, 2014, 10:30 am

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http://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-sho ... 32879.html
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measure carefully and do your research CAREFULLY,and stop and think things thru ! don,t feel compelled or obligated to use only the components you have and you darn sure will find that having a few tools like a decent shop hydraulic press makes working on u-joints and axle bearings far easier, a press will easily pay for itself in reduced machine shop labor costs in very short order, in fact Ive had a single job replacing u-joints in a corvette with the cost of a new press and the u-joints combined cost less than a dealership quoted me for the job of replacing all 6 u-joints in my corvette! making the press purchase a total no-brainer!
I spent several hours yesterday at a friends garage trying to locate and diagnose a "transmission problem" that proved to be a cracked axle and loose pinion gear in a 10 bolt chevy/g.m. pontiac differential in a 1967 fire-bird, the owner had spent a good deal more time and money on that rear differential than I would have ever considered doing, because it was the original cars differential, and he had purchased a bunch of UPGRADES trying to strengthen the differential rather than just pitching it in the closest scrap heap where it belonged, in his particular application, and replacing it with one of several far stronger differentials.one lesson I learned long ago was that you need to step back and think things thru rather than just assuming that working with what the original car came equipped with is your only option, and that throwing a few buckets of cash into upgraded aftermarket components, will solve most problems!
you can,t make a silk purse from a pigs ear!
in many cases, STRICT, BRAND LOYALTY, WORKS AGAINST YOU!
theres zero question that a different, rear differential like a ford 9"
dana 60, or older pontiac 9.3" or chevy 12 bolt differential
built with quality aftermarket parts, would result in a rear differential ,that was 200%-600% stronger than the original 10 bolt Pontiac fire bird rear differential, that came installed in the car and with that optional advantage available of upgrading to larger rear disc brakes, rather than the original pathetic drum brakes, and while your at the up grades you may as well get better springs and install quality traction bars etc.

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cal-track bars normally cost about $350, but you can, measure and fabricate decent cal trac bars if you have a welder and some basic machine shop skills, and understand the basic concepts involved
RELATED THREADS AND INFO, and yes I'm only too well aware that many guys will skip reading sub links, but, its your choice!
a few hours doing research could save you hundreds of dollars and several days of work, and in some cases prevent extensive damage


viewtopic.php?f=44&t=227&p=43401&hilit=hydraulic+press+u+joint#p43401

viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4067&p=10823&hilit=pontiac+firebird#p10823

http://www.strangeengineering.net/high- ... s/s60.html

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=237&p=44326&hilit=differential#p44326

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=9040&p=32309#p32309

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=1261&p=10180&hilit=differential+to+a+FORD#p10180

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=1934&p=5126&hilit=differential+to+a+FORD#p5126

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=1282&p=2744&hilit=differential+to+a+FORD#p2744

viewtopic.php?f=33&t=905&p=1470&hilit=differential+to+a+FORD#p1470

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=4525&p=37599&hilit=inch+width#p37599

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=1198&p=2858&hilit=+ford+inch+width#p2858

viewtopic.php?f=46&t=10317&p=42038&hilit=differential#p42038

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=1889&p=36632&hilit=differential#p36632

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=1282&p=36502&hilit=differential#p36502
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

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Site Admin
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Posts: 14105
Joined: September 14th, 2008, 1:40 pm
Location: florida


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