learning to drive a really fast car



learning to drive a really fast car

Postby grumpyvette » December 9th, 2008, 8:36 pm

ever notice my signature, line, IVE used for years
"if you can,t smoke the tires from a 60mph rolling start your engine needs more work!"

http://vexer.com/automotive-tools/1-4-m ... calculator

I built and drove a 13.7:1 compression ratio ,CROWER INJECTED 496 BIG BLOCK CORVETTE, for several years., it was not a daily driver but it was a weekend toy, SO IM familiar with the problem, of having nearly zero traction under the use of 1/2 -to-full throttle, and under almost any conditions at any speeds under 60 -70mph.
YOULL NEVER LEARN WITHOUT SOME EXTENSIVE PRACTICE!

first step, use your head, if you've got a car with well over 500hp and 500 ft lbs of torque your going to be able to destroy the rear tires with a blip of the throttle in many cases and get yourself into problems in a blink of an eye! you don,t use that power all the time, in fact most of the time youll find yourself barely opening the throttle. if you have a working brain youll realize your in control of how when and of control over the rate at which the power you have potentially available is applied to the drive train and tires

Maximize the current traction from the current tires; the wrong pressure can reduce effective traction by over 30%, forget about stomping on the gas like you can get away with with a stock small block car much of the time, it only results in tire smoke, and in many cases tickets.

step one, play with the tire pressure until you get a full tread width and equally dark patch of rubber on the pavement, and if the car can accelerate fast you should have the common sense to realize you'll need both, larger more effective brakes and too the experience to plan all moves well in advance, thus leaving a great deal of room and time to slow the car down or compensate for other drivers mistakes
like learning to walk, driving a true high power car is going to result in YOU learning what you can, and CAN,T expect to do without running into UN-intended objects or getting hurt... take it slowly and learn, what the car can and can,t do, how far it takes to stop and at what speeds you can turn, if you don,t your going to get hurt with the new toy!
most guys run about 23-30 psi of tire pressure on the street, on the track you want the front tires up at about 30 psi to reduce rolling resistance but youll need to experiment , doing a few launches on concrete so you can get a good indication of the tread contact patch area, adjusting/playing with the rear tire pressure until you can get a full tread width black tire stripe on the pavement thats equally dark full width to get max traction, if the centers darker the pressures usually a bit too high , if the edges are darker its a bit too low.
next learn to launch the car smoothly, at the lowest rpm that will allow minimal tire spin to occur over the whole launch and into second gear, and yet still maintain the tire spin without the engine bogging as your running thru the first 60 feet on the track, once you get those factors under control youl find youll do better !!
once you leave the track reduce the front tire pressure until you get max traction, usually near 23 psi

heres a practice tree
try to stay under .525-.530 reaction time

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/nhraxtreesp.html

read this, info on the basics of setting up a suspension

http://www.miata.net/sport/Physics/

Step two

Learn your equipments little quirks, your not going to be able to floor the accelerator pedal suddenly, especially on wet or sandy pavement, GET USED TO THAT FACT! And COMPENSATE by learning how to slowly depress the accelerator pedal and control and minimize the wheel spin.

Step three

high acceleration requires both better brakes and planning your reactions MUCH further in advance and a longer distance between starting your response and expecting results, get used to that and learn to expect it.

step 4
air shocks, stiffer anti roll bars and bigger brakes are your friends but planning ahead and driving like you understand the cars quirks and potential for getting into trouble will go a very long way towards preventing problems, IE just because you CAN do something does not mean you SHOULD do it!

besides its fun to cruise in top gear at 3000rpm at lets say 70mph and without even down shifting , smoking the tires as you leave some ricer in the dust from a roll without even seeming to put any effort what so ever into doing it.
if your breaking traction when your not expecting too, its simply because your pushing that accelerator towards the floor a bit too rapidly, or your suspension and tires are not correctly set up to handle the power.
a properly set up high performance car almost explodes into acceleration when the throttle depressed or DE-acceleration when the brakes are applied by a skilled operator, gaining that skill takes experience and practice,the problem is..
most of us grew up with cars that had power levels that allowed the driver to hold the accelerator on the floor waiting for the power to build, NOW you are forced to DRIVE THE CAR and CONTROL the application of power UNDER YOUR CONTROL...it takes practice but once you've mastered the skill its a real thrill.
My 1968 13.7:1 cpr CROWER INJECTED race ,496 BBC vette took awhile to master , required a full roll cage and a tubed read,but it sure put a grin on your face once you got the hang of driving a car with almost EXCESSIVE power
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

User avatar
Site Admin
Site Admin
 
Posts: 14105
Joined: September 14th, 2008, 1:40 pm
Location: florida

Re: learning to drive a really fast car

Postby grumpyvette » December 10th, 2008, 9:14 pm

Stupid question, wouldn't a 4.11 create more tire spinning?
yes and no!
TRACTION has a lot to do with both the contact patch of the tire and the speed of the car, its a lot harder to start to spin tires at 70mph than at 10mph and a lot easier to keep tires spinning once they broke traction than to get them to break traction at speed and the distance the car traveled between gear shifts is smaller but the acceleration rate higher with the 4.11 rear gear than the 3.08 rear gear, while it allows you to put more torque to the ground that can potentially increase tire spin on the launch, while the cars forward motion is limited ,but it ALSO allows the engine to increase its rpms at a faster rate without the tires spinning once the cars SPEED increases past the point where achieving traction is a major problem.
I.E. you'll tend to spin more on the launch but generally not once you get up into the 60-70 mph range and higher , its a two way street, you can produce more torque at the tires but over a shorter distance traveled in each gear as the engine accelerates thru its power band.

yeah! I know thats a bit confusing, but lets say with a 3.08 rear youve got the power to spin the tires all the way thru first and your at 51 mph in first at 6500rpm when he shifts and 95mph when he shifts into third, hes very unlikely to be spinning the tires past that 51 mph point , maybe a good chirp on the shift NOW lets say with a 4.11 rear rear youve got the power to spin the tires all the way thru first and your at 38 mph in first at 6500rpm when he shifts and 71mph when he shifts into third, and 116 when he shifts into od.
while hes got more potential tq hes covering less distance between shifts, and at about 60 mph, his traction tends to catch up, so hes covered LESS distance FASTER with the 4.11 rear gear and stopped spinning in slightly LESS distance in some cases.

http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/transmission.html

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=555

http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInfo/gear_ratios.asp

I'm happy with the 3.07s the RPMs are high enough on the highway for me, I don't want them any higher

What do you recommend?


youve answered your own question!, theres no sense in changing if your happy, with the current set up, 3.73-4.11 rear gears will generally accelerate the car faster but also keep the rpms much higher when cruising.

SOME GUYS STAY WITH THE STOCK 3.07-2.57 REAR GEARS to minimize the tire spin, and at lower power levels that works to prevent the tire spin that a 3.73-4.11:1 rear gear ratio would produce due to the extra torque multiplication,but its not that effective once youve got the necessary power to blow the traction at will,


the PROBLEM with that approach is NOT the traction, or lack of it in most cases,but the fact that your engine spends very little time in the engines most effective section of the torque curve , theres not much sense in building a killer combo with a cam and heads that flow impressive numbers and allow impressive hp in the 5000rpm-6500-7000rpm if your spending 70% of your time below 5500rpm and the transmission shifts at 5500rpm, due to the rear gearing and transmission shift point.
Its rather pointless to have a great deal more hp than you can effectively transfer to the pavement, but gearing the car so you can,t get into the most effective part of the power curve much of the time is hardly the best option.

play with the info in the links posted above and you'll soon see the distance traveled and mph prevent a car with a 2.57-3.07 rear gear from spending the majority of its time in the efficient part of the tq curve.
yes your likely to need slicks and suspension mods but the car will be far more effective if your using the full potential of the power curve.
yes your going to need slicks and suspension mods to get the necessary traction.
If your using the car for drag racing or general street strip use it makes sense to gear the car to reach the end of the 1/4 mile at near maximum rpms in top gear, rather than gear the car to reach speeds that you'll seldom have the opportunity to use, yeah its impressive to say your cars able to hit 180mph in theory, but its a rare car that can exceed 140mph anyplace, let alone on the city streets.
It makes more sense to maximize the engines power potential in the 0-130mph range thats at least potentially useable.


there are now 17" slicks available ....but a serious power level and a dana 36 combined won,t be a good combo with slicks

http://moesperformance.com/index.php?ma ... s_id=12401

http://www.slickstyres.co.uk/dunlop.htm


Image
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

User avatar
Site Admin
Site Admin
 
Posts: 14105
Joined: September 14th, 2008, 1:40 pm
Location: florida

Re: learning to drive a really fast car

Postby grumpyvette » December 11th, 2008, 3:16 pm

tires and suspensions have improved a great deal since the 1970s but if I just floored my old big block 496 vette And allowed the engine top bounce of the ignition rev limiter I could smoke tires for the first full 1000 feet,but launch at about 1900rpm and slowly gradually applying more throttle over about 2 seconds resulted in the front wheels lifting about 3-5" for 30-50 feet,.


I was seriously racing in the mid 1970s-1980s with that vette, it ran mid to- low 10s during most of the late 1970s-80s while tried dozens of different bbc engine combos, and several transmission types, generally the trans was an M22 and 4.56 rear gears but I tried 4.11, 4.88,5,13 rear gears, several types of slicks, and a TH400 trans also.
building the car with today's available parts would be laughably easy compared to back then when you were restricted in many areas of the built to modified stock components, decent big block heads, cranks,rods, cams, were just not available like now or were exorbitantly priced, on the plus side blocks and heads ETC. were cheap and easy to get. a complete LS7 500 hp crate engine cost $1600, but you were making $130-$200 a week back then, so the cost in weeks worked to buy an engine was similar to today's $9000-$12,000 costs for similar engines


most guys think they drive pretty well,but the truth is .....MOST GUYS FLAT OUT SUCK at driving a high hp car, the first few dozen times they drive one!
DRIVING is a LEARNED SKILL, and it REQUIRES PRACTICE to get decent, at it......practice....that you'll only get once you've got access to both a car with more than enough power to break traction any time you choose to, and have access to large areas of paved road surface without cops or traffic to contend with, I used to have access to an abandoned airport and it did wonders for your skill level but required almost monthly sets of new tires, and a few buddies to race against and a few dozen traffic cones to lay out a course.
and of course a good bit of disposable income for constant replacement of tires, fuel,brakes, shocks, etc.

....php?f=7&t=489


learning to DRIVE, will have a great deal to do with the drive train durability, EXAMPLE
Ive used a dana 36 on several 500 hp plus c-4 corvettes and had them last for a good deal longer than the typical 700r4, use the hp to play catch and pass not do hard launches, you've got to learn to apply the throttle gradually and power bye the opposition rather than try to jump them at the line if your going to maintain the stock dana 36 IRS with bigger tires and more hp
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

User avatar
Site Admin
Site Admin
 
Posts: 14105
Joined: September 14th, 2008, 1:40 pm
Location: florida

Re: learning to drive a really fast car

Postby Indycars » May 27th, 2011, 9:19 am


If road racing is your passion, then this book is by far the best I've ever read. First published in 1959, it explains in detail
how to drive and then backs it up with the math. Ever wondered why cars racing on a oval will come down away from
the wall, there is more to it than getting away from the turbulence while close to the wall.

Many people think that if you could complete every corner in minimum time from entry to exit, that would result
in the fastest lap times, but that's not true. This book will explain that and much more.

It's highly rated on Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Technique-Motor-R ... 0837602289

Technique of Motor Racing.jpg
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Rick
Too much is just enough!!!

- Check Out My Dart SHP Engine Project: viewtopic.php?f=69&t=3814
- Need a Dynamic Compression Ratio Calculator: viewtopic.php?f=99&t=4458
Indycars

User avatar
Forum Admin
Forum Admin
 
Posts: 4424
Joined: May 25th, 2010, 8:58 am
Location: Yukon, OK

Re: learning to drive a really fast car

Postby grumpyvette » May 27th, 2011, 10:06 am

GOOD POST!
that books got a good bit of info!
BTW heres a link you might find of interest gentelemen

http://www.miata.net/sport/Physics/
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

User avatar
Site Admin
Site Admin
 
Posts: 14105
Joined: September 14th, 2008, 1:40 pm
Location: florida

Re: learning to drive a really fast car

Postby Indycars » May 27th, 2011, 4:41 pm

grumpyvette wrote:GOOD POST!
that books got a good bit of info!
BTW heres a link you might find of interest gentlemen

http://www.miata.net/sport/Physics/

Now that link has some great info that I could sink my teeth in to if I was still racing this Kart.
http://members.cox.net/go-kart/index.shtml
Racing Kart.jpg
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Rick
Too much is just enough!!!

- Check Out My Dart SHP Engine Project: viewtopic.php?f=69&t=3814
- Need a Dynamic Compression Ratio Calculator: viewtopic.php?f=99&t=4458
Indycars

User avatar
Forum Admin
Forum Admin
 
Posts: 4424
Joined: May 25th, 2010, 8:58 am
Location: Yukon, OK

Re: learning to drive a really fast car

Postby Randy_W » May 31st, 2011, 6:35 am

I raced 5 classes of Karts in the late 1960's including a 90+ HORSEPOWER UNLIMITED FULL LAY DOWN WITH 5 SPEED(sorry about the caps :oops: ), 8" wide rear tires and 4 wheel disc brake with four way modulation. Now that would keep you busy on a road course or make you wet your pants on a banked 1/4 mile concrete oval! Thankfully I was young enough to not be nearly as scared as I should have been! :lol:
Randy
Don't mess with old men, we didn't get that way by being stupid!
Randy_W

User avatar
Moderator
Moderator
 
Posts: 756
Joined: March 22nd, 2009, 8:57 pm

Re: learning to drive a really fast car

Postby Indycars » May 31st, 2011, 7:36 am

Randy_W wrote:I raced 5 classes of Karts in the late 1960's including a 90+ HORSEPOWER UNLIMITED FULL LAY DOWN WITH 5 SPEED(sorry about the caps :oops: ), 8" wide rear tires and 4 wheel disc brake with four way modulation. Now that would keep you busy on a road course or make you wet your pants on a banked 1/4 mile concrete oval! Thankfully I was young enough to not be nearly as scared as I should have been! :lol:

Ninety horsepower......that's not crazy, that's insane. :!:
I'm guessing that was some kind of Outlaw class, don't remembering seeing anything in the IKF book for such a class. What kind
of engine.....maybe from a motorcycle ???
Rick
Too much is just enough!!!

- Check Out My Dart SHP Engine Project: viewtopic.php?f=69&t=3814
- Need a Dynamic Compression Ratio Calculator: viewtopic.php?f=99&t=4458
Indycars

User avatar
Forum Admin
Forum Admin
 
Posts: 4424
Joined: May 25th, 2010, 8:58 am
Location: Yukon, OK

Re: learning to drive a really fast car

Postby Randy_W » May 31st, 2011, 3:26 pm

It was USKA Unlimited class, not really "unlimited" but the only real limitation was money and knowledge. It had 2 McCullough's that started life as 20 h.p. engines each. I'll give as much detail as I can remember 45 years later. They were bored and sleeved, custom reeds, 4 carbs each, cannot remember the brand, they were custom built units. Custom cranks that very different than a stock motor of the era, custom pistons that would only last 50-200 laps under the lean mixtures we ran. Custom blend 2 stroke oil, av gas, custom built single 5 speed tranny with a t-shaped case with input shat diagonal to the kart with pulley provisions on each end for twin engine setups, don't recall the brand there either. Guy in Norfolk, VA built them from some sort of single input tranny. We built the brake setup ourselves because nobody was doing fronts then. We could turn laps on 1/4 mile oval in excess of 120 mph. The G-force was unreal! You do a whole lap at 90+ with no hands on the wheel, it would just follow the banking around. In 1967 there were only about 10 competitive Unlimiteds and they cost around $4000-$6000 to build then. You could buy a new GTO for less money. :mrgreen:
Randy
Don't mess with old men, we didn't get that way by being stupid!
Randy_W

User avatar
Moderator
Moderator
 
Posts: 756
Joined: March 22nd, 2009, 8:57 pm

Re: learning to drive a really fast car

Postby Indycars » May 31st, 2011, 5:32 pm


Sounds like everything was custom fabricated. Was that one of the first shifter karts that we see today ? Lapping at 120 mph, I would
say your are a very lucky guy....you're still here !

Got any pictures ?
Rick
Too much is just enough!!!

- Check Out My Dart SHP Engine Project: viewtopic.php?f=69&t=3814
- Need a Dynamic Compression Ratio Calculator: viewtopic.php?f=99&t=4458
Indycars

User avatar
Forum Admin
Forum Admin
 
Posts: 4424
Joined: May 25th, 2010, 8:58 am
Location: Yukon, OK

Re: learning to drive a really fast car

Postby Randy_W » May 31st, 2011, 8:57 pm

They were based on the lay down karts of the period and they were advancing very rapidly at the time. Near full fairing/body work due to the speed capability.Most were seriously modified from stock though. There were a lot of racing karts with tranny's going well back to the '50s. The kart parts store on Colley Av. in Norfolk kept 2-3 different trannys in stock at any given time. We didn't use the term "shifter Kart", no idea when that started. The other 4 classes we ran were clutch classes. I also had a fun kart that sat upright and looked traditional. It had a 250 Bear Scrambler engine/trans and the engine was highly modified.
That was the most fun of all of them. Had 6" wide slicks on the back and it would smoke the tires from a roll in the first 3 gears and had a top end around 80-85. It was traditional looking and way torquey. Wish I had it now. :mrgreen:
Randy
Don't mess with old men, we didn't get that way by being stupid!
Randy_W

User avatar
Moderator
Moderator
 
Posts: 756
Joined: March 22nd, 2009, 8:57 pm

Re: learning to drive a really fast car

Postby grumpyvette » April 1st, 2012, 9:58 am

I got a call this morning from a guy I talked with about a year ago who asked for advise on an engine combo for his 1970 nova, he has a 496 BBC with 11.5:1 compression, BRODIX oval port heads, a wieand single plane intake,850 cfm carb, and a cam with some serious duration and lift, and a 3500 rpm stall converter and a 4.11:1 rear gear and a TH400 he called to say the engine combo I suggested seems to produce a bit more horsepower that the cars suspension and traction can effectively control even after he installed larger tires and frame connectors and some traction bars. he stated that simply blipping the throttle results in the tires smoking.
TRACTION? On the street , with street tires ,with 496 BBC and 4.10s :lol: :lol: :roll: :mrgreen:

actually that was the intended result , he was looking to achieve,to some extent but its still funny to see guys that previously have only had 400hp small block engines find out what a stroker big block combo is capable of in a lighter weight car.
his experience is hardly UN-expected and I pointed that out before he began the engine and drive train mods.
it takes a totally different driving style to drive a car with 3-4 times the horsepower to weigh ratio and less effective traction, and much more acceleration potential and mandatory longer braking distances than most people learned to drive with.
you need to re-learn how to drive and become far more aware of your car and the objects and traffic around you!



if your interested theres some related linked info


viewtopic.php?f=69&t=5123

viewtopic.php?f=87&t=8379&p=29224&hilit=take+fast+ratio#p29224

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=216&p=7849&hilit=leaf+spring+traction#p7849

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=1420

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=6125

viewtopic.php?f=87&t=9731&p=37718&hilit=take+fast#p37718
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

User avatar
Site Admin
Site Admin
 
Posts: 14105
Joined: September 14th, 2008, 1:40 pm
Location: florida

Re: learning to drive a really fast car

Postby grumpyvette » May 31st, 2012, 9:37 am

heres a great example of a killer "SLEEPER CAR"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96Hv_jRQMv8

having a really fast cars fun, but trust me on this point, if he parks that car he needs to put some thought into theft prevention or he won,t be driving it for very long, theres just too many jealous and dishonest people out in the real world.
when I had a 10 second 1968 corvette, the body work was still being done and I was driving the car , and without fail if you parked the car some moron would come over and look to see if you left it unlocked, try the door handles, within 45 minutes almost every time it was parked in public.
also keep in mind GARAGE SECURITY, and if you join auto/corvette/muscle car clubs theres always a few members that are less than trust worthy




related threads

viewtopic.php?f=87&t=5976&p=18464&hilit=selecting+project#p18464

viewtopic.php?f=67&t=5887&p=17981#p17981

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=297&p=22263&hilit=garage+security#p22263

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=81&p=104&hilit=fire+extingisher#p104

viewtopic.php?f=87&t=3527&p=9327&hilit=members+clubs#p9327

viewtopic.php?f=87&t=339&p=3354&hilit=members+clubs#p3354
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

User avatar
Site Admin
Site Admin
 
Posts: 14105
Joined: September 14th, 2008, 1:40 pm
Location: florida

Re: learning to drive a really fast car

Postby Indycars » May 31st, 2012, 10:35 am

That car is insane for the street! Makes the 500 hp I hope to make look pitiful.
Rick
Too much is just enough!!!

- Check Out My Dart SHP Engine Project: viewtopic.php?f=69&t=3814
- Need a Dynamic Compression Ratio Calculator: viewtopic.php?f=99&t=4458
Indycars

User avatar
Forum Admin
Forum Admin
 
Posts: 4424
Joined: May 25th, 2010, 8:58 am
Location: Yukon, OK

Re: learning to drive a really fast car

Postby grumpyvette » November 14th, 2012, 3:31 pm

I drive BELOW the posted speeds about 98% of the time,and usually drive the wifes mercury or my 1996 corvette thats not all that modified, frankly I don,t need any tickets and being retired Im rarely in a huge hurry and old enough and experienced enough to know that even when I,m driving my 1985 corvette that can easily beat 90% of the street cars performance almost effortlessly, that theres no potential gains to be made, and a huge risk, if you engage in street racing.
my 1985 corvette is not that fast, it runs low 12s unless I turn on the nitrous and low mid 11s on giggle gas and its only a well built 383.
my older 1968 corvette (since sold) had a killer 496 big block and a full roll cage and easily went 10.26/137mph , but tended to attract a police escort almost every trip so it was hardly fun to drive, and it only got about 7 mpg.
yes you can build a really fast car, but once you get a car that will consistently run at least mid 12 second 1/4 mile times there little competition on the street, and going faster starts costing a great deal more money and takes far more maintenance time.

(1) YOU can control to a great degree the amount of torque your applying to the tires by controlling what your foot does on the throttle petal

(2) proper tires and suspension mods like modifying air pressure in the tires air shocks, traction bars etc.can be very useful but simply learning how to drive the car and how and when and at what rate you can apply power helps a great deal, that takes practice and experience.

Ive built and raced dozens of cars, each is unique and each takes a slightly different drive style, each car will require you to master its flaws and strengths and it makes little difference if its a 400hp street/strip car or a 700hp strip car, your knowledge of how to set up a suspension, recognize how the suspension and tires work together, and work with the cars limitations will make or break the combo to a large extent

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=372&p=454&hilit=physics+of+racing#p454

viewtopic.php?f=80&t=906&p=27083&hilit=learning+drive#p27083

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=248&p=295&hilit=needs+500hp#p295

viewtopic.php?f=87&t=5121&p=14750&hilit=launch+traction#p14750
In my opinion, theres little sense in owning a car you can rarely drive, thats costs you a great deal of time and money


http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=430

please don,t miss understand me here, its a hoot to have a car that can smoke the tires at the blip of the throttle or start the tires smoking from a 60 mph rolling start, but its not very practical, and gearing a car so it can run at 140 mph or more in most cases just means its lost a great deal of low speed acceleration potential that the correct gearing could get you back!
Im currently building up the list of components to do my own big block swap as Ive helped at least 6-7 other guys do now, the cars that result are a great deal of fun, but must be used on the track ,not the street to see the full potential.

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=151

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=512

viewtopic.php?f=46&t=7006&p=30414#p30414

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=6
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
grumpyvette

User avatar
Site Admin
Site Admin
 
Posts: 14105
Joined: September 14th, 2008, 1:40 pm
Location: florida


Return to corvette related misc.

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest

cron